Oil Pressure dropped after OP gears and Procharger install

[Pat-Red-PP2]

I go for Ford performance opg whit housing kit $$$ work for me ,The oil pressure is normal 18,20 hot idle ,The housing aligne the gear better to go whit a New housing !thats a lot of work !

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[19gtaz]

higher than stock rpms can or does cause vibrations beyond the stock balancers/damper limits. stock gears are less forgiving in this region and can fracture. Different metallurgy in the AM gears allows them to take more abuse and not fracture. Ford performance has an email floating around stating the AM gears dont solve the actual problem but do handle the problem better at sustained and repeated high vibration regions that the damper wasnt designed for.

I see people changing gear when they add a supercharger. If you add a supercharger and don't go over factory rpm, would you still need to change gears? The whipple with the Ford warranty comes to mind. I wonder if part of the install is to change gear.

 

[KKell83]

my factory gears were starting to score a small amount on the rotor tips but had 20k and a few trips north of 7500rpm on them.

i think you ended up with a really early set of gears that boundary admitted had hardening issues. your serial number indicates 00046, is that matching on the paper work in the box?

for reference, the paper work i have shows serial number 19363 on my gears. so nearly 20,000 gear sets later. assuming they are counting up..

when did you buy and from where?

I'm not sure how Boundry accounts for their serial numbers but you're right, my first set (one which I just pulled out) were 00046 and I purchased these straight through them two months ago. My newest ones I purchased from LMR with a new oil pump and they're 00069. God I hope these work.

 

[tdstuart]

I'm not sure how Boundry accounts for their serial numbers but you're right, my first set (one which I just pulled out) were 00046 and I purchased these straight through them two months ago. My newest ones I purchased from LMR with a new oil pump and they're 00069. God I hope these work.

Mine from December are number 23208. Product Type: OPG 017335, CM MUSTANG OPG.

Luckily I watched the exact video above before doing my opg. My car had 100k miles at the time so I figured I would rather be safe and spend the extra to get a new housing.

Good luck with these new gears. I know how much of a pain and long process opg install can be.

Also would recommend replacing timing chains and crank sprocket while you are at it. I just bought new factory chains but if you could find the gt350 chains they should fit on your car and be stronger than the normal gt ones. Also, the secondary chains weren't hard to do, just need new chains and new bolts.

 

[KKell83]

Mine from December are number 23208. Product Type: OPG 017335, CM MUSTANG OPG.

Luckily I watched the exact video above before doing my opg. My car had 100k miles at the time so I figured I would rather be safe and spend the extra to get a new housing.

Good luck with these new gears. I know how much of a pain and long process opg install can be.

Also would recommend replacing timing chains and crank sprocket while you are at it. I just bought new factory chains but if you could find the gt350 chains they should fit on your car and be stronger than the normal gt ones. Also, the secondary chains weren't hard to do, just need new chains and new bolts.

I actually installed the Boss 302 timing tensioners the first go around.

So I just added the new pump fired it up (after some initial priming) and oil pressure was good! And a nice warm Idle at a sold 30psi! Love it.

Went on a test drive and past someone (went in boost), come to a stop and now it's at 19-20...

 

[tdstuart]

I actually installed the Boss 302 timing tensioners the first go around.

So I just added the new pump fired it up (after some initial priming) and oil pressure was good! And a nice warm Idle at a sold 30psi! Love it.

Went on a test drive and past someone (went in boost), come to a stop and now it's at 19-20...

I'll check if data logging shows oil pressure. If it does ill report what mine is at.

Real shame if another set went bad. This time you installed a new housing too right? When I put mine in I think I just filled it with some oil, but maybe they need assembly lube.

 

[Grimreaper]

That sounds normal. What idle rpm?

That's what iirc mine was before I raised my idle

Sounds like u jumped on it before oil was fully at temp

 

[K4fxd]

Has anyone checked crank run out?

On the twin cam harley engines the crank tolerance is beyond stupid so there is a field fix for installing the oil pump. Basically you install it loose, semi tight, and spin the motor over. This centers the gears and housing. With this procedure the incidence of worn out oil pump gears and housings went to nearly zero.

 

[Jackson1320]

You should always be checking the clearance on the gears. Also pack the pump with petroleum jelly will guarantee you don’t hurt anything if you don’t plan on prime the system correctly and allow the system to prime. The correct way is to use some source of compressed oil from an external source connected to the system

 

[Cobra Jet]

I'm not sure how Boundry accounts for their serial numbers but you're right, my first set (one which I just pulled out) were 00046 and I purchased these straight through them two months ago. My newest ones I purchased from LMR with a new oil pump and they're 00069. God I hope these work.

Unless Boundary does Serial # resets (ie: isn't reusing S/N's), if it were me, I wouldn't use that "new" set with another Serial # that is so low. More so if other M6G members are reporting much higher S/N's from the same manufacturer.

I also don't know if suppliers put out a recall on their products to vendors if they are known to have "bad batches" of product. For all anyone knows is that there's "bad batch stock" sitting on vendors shelves ...although still "new", it's still a "bad batch" if the S/N's are known to be in a certain range that had issues.

---
Also be aware that some OPG sets have a chamfered side and a square or flat side. According to Ford Performance (as outlined in one the OPG threads I linked to previously), the square/flat side goes against the back plate, while the chamfered side goes into the pump housing.

---
If it were me, I'd buy and install the Ford Performance OPG kit - it has to meet Ford/Ford Performance stringent standards as far as materials used, clearance tolerances, quality, and craftsmanship. There's a shit ton of OPG sets out there, and sure there's bad and good - but me personally, I would go with FP over other available sets.

 

[Angrey]

This is all covered under the other/main thread.

OE style gears have hard material and tight tolerances.

Hard materials last longer and wear better. However, they're also more brittle and more subject to sudden fatigue/failure. Softer alloys can take a beating, but they're subject to more frequent and more rapid scarring, spalling and overall wear.

Tight tolerances are good for maximizing flow and pressure. But they're also much more prone to sudden vibrational loads. Loose tolerances are good for weathering a lot of movement and vibrational loading. But they're not as good for producing max seal and flow and pressure.

So crudely it ends up being a 4 quadrant affair.

Quadrant 1: Hard and tight. Good pressure. Durable and longer lasting. Most subject to vibrational or sudden load failure.

Quadrant 2: Hard and Loose. Less pressure. Durable and longer lasting. Somewhere in the middle for vibe and sudden load survivability.

Quadrant 3: Soft and tight. Good pressure. Less durable and prone to wearing and spalling. Somewhere in the middle for vibe and load survivability.

Quadrant 4: Soft and loose. Less pressure. Less durable and prone to wearing and spalling. Most robust in resisting max load, vibe and sudden shock loads.

So there's a tradeoff between OEM (long lasting, economy) and Race (frequent maintenance, high hp/abuse) needs.

If you make the gears and sprockets so they don't show signs of wear, you're simply making them more prone to sudden fracture. The race gears are more geared (no pun intended) to guys who are going to tear down and repair/replace wear parts more often.

I think Boundary may have veered TOO much on the HRC/soft alloy side as some of the measurements claimed were way way low. But it's understandable the gears they make would be more prone to wearing and scarring.

Our community is weird sometimes, it's like a school of fish. We suddenly dart and change direction depending on the danger. TSS is now the brand that everyone swears has had no probz. That is, until everyone starts running TSS and starts finding and publishing posts on forums. Then we'll be back to searching for a new goto.

 

[K4fxd]

would go with FP over other available sets.

+1

 

[KKell83]

I'll check if data logging shows oil pressure. If it does ill report what mine is at.

Real shame if another set went bad. This time you installed a new housing too right? When I put mine in I think I just filled it with some oil, but maybe they need assembly lube.

New housing as well. Luckily, they're including assembly lube with their gears now. The first time I only used their supplied lube, this time I did the lube and oil.

And thanks!

 

[KKell83]

That sounds normal. What idle rpm?

That's what iirc mine was before I raised my idle

Sounds like u jumped on it before oil was fully at temp

725rpm

And definitely not, oil temp was hot. There was a lot of double and triple checking before I gave it the beans.

First set had several WOT pulls - just installed the Procharger and didn't notice the pressure till after a 5hr drive, on a slant, idling (traffic).

Second time around I babied it! Had roughly 30-32psi at a warm idle before I gave her some power (not WOT) and then it dropped 10psi when I came to the next stop. You can see it on the guage - it had like a hiccup. FYI, it's a new sending unit too.

 

[KKell83]

Unless Boundary does Serial # resets (ie: isn't reusing S/N's), if it were me, I wouldn't use that "new" set with another Serial # that is so low. More so if other M6G members are reporting much higher S/N's from the same manufacturer.

I also don't know if suppliers put out a recall on their products to vendors if they are known to have "bad batches" of product. For all anyone knows is that there's "bad batch stock" sitting on vendors shelves ...although still "new", it's still a "bad batch" if the S/N's are known to be in a certain range that had issues.

---
Also be aware that some OPG sets have a chamfered side and a square or flat side. According to Ford Performance (as outlined in one the OPG threads I linked to previously), the square/flat side goes against the back plate, while the chamfered side goes into the pump housing.

---
If it were me, I'd buy and install the Ford Performance OPG kit - it has to meet Ford/Ford Performance stringent standards as far as materials used, clearance tolerances, quality, and craftsmanship. There's a shit ton of OPG sets out there, and sure there's bad and good - but me personally, I would go with FP over other available sets.

Do you have the part # to the Ford unit?

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