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Oil filter shortage

The Chairman

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As stated above, we have seen 2 instances of FL2062 collapsing in on themselves. One of the collapses happened while the car was on the dyno being tuned. It was a 1000R twin turbo car. The other one was on a 800R twin turbo car that was out in Colorado while the customer was driving it on the street. Luckily both cars had MoTeC ECUs. When oil pressure drops the MoTeC goes in to a fail safe strategy and shuts off the engine. These both occurred around the end of 2020 and start of 2021. Since then we only run the FL2087 filters and have updated our owners manuals stating as such. I would say its not likely to happen in a stock or near stock HP car. This is a picture of the filter out of the 800R from Colorado.

Oil Filter.jpeg
Thanks for the info.
However, not sure I see a link between horsepower and oil pressure. If you are running a stock oil pump at nearly the same RPM, the oil flow would be the same (pressure and volume).
The pix you provided looks like a twisted/crushed install, not collapsed?
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Angrey

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We do remote setups on the big power built engine cars, but it costs a fare amount to do though. Again not worth the effort IMO for a NA setup. Probably the only affordable alternative would be to put the 2015/2016 traditional external metal style oil filter housing and filter on it. Then you have to worry about the filter vibrating loose. Which you can remedy with a hose clap and safety wire.
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Ironically, I have a 2016 (blown) setup and I just spent the money on my build for the cartridge oil filter assembly. Went through the pain in the ass of rewiring the harness connection (you know because Ford couldn't POSSIBLY use the same oil sensor, or even the same ****ing thread pattern between the two).

The new sensor has an or ring (to help with concerns of the sensor fitting backing out).

The old filter was easy to ensure it didn't spin off, just use a hose clamp (like you suggested) and you didn't even need a lanyard as long as you placed the clamp appropriately (the screw housing right next to an adjacent component so it couldn't back off or rotate).

At this point we're now seeing even the vaunted 2087 filter collapsed (internally) so I'm just wondering if it isn't time to say to hell with it and install a remote coolant assembly and pick the filter of my choice.
 

Angrey

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Thanks for the info.
However, not sure I see a link between horsepower and oil pressure. If you are running a stock oil pump at nearly the same RPM, the oil flow would be the same (pressure and volume).
The pix you provided looks like a twisted/crushed install, not collapsed?
I don't agree. The metal spline that runs along the pleats isn't twisted. If it was an error with the filter binding at one or both ends and twisting during initial installation of the cartridge housing, we'd expect to see that metal spline twisted along with it. The fact that the spline is straight as an arrow leads me to believe it did indeed crush inward under pressure/flow.

However I do agree with you somewhat about the oil pressure and flow. The oil pump and the filter don't know or recognize whether there's a blower on top of the motor or not. The flow is completely dependent upon rpm, which unless someone is upping the rpm limiter, I would think it would be consistent whether blown or not. The next thought is maybe a blown setup would be able to rev or rapidly increase flow (resulting in filter collapse) but generally speaking, an N/A motor revs faster than a blower or a turbo'd setup. So that doesn't wash either. Given that most people already run (and stick with 5w-50) that doesn't really explain it (same oil weights) and given that a blown motor would introduce more heat, we'd expect if anything for a blown setup to feature thinner flow.

I think the only plausible explanation would be reving past the OE limit. It's curious what the flow curve would look like based upon RPM but I'm guessing it's a linear relationship with the geroter gearing. So if it's providing a peak output (pressure and flow) of X, then going from 8250 up to 8500, or 9000 would result in a 3% or 9% increase in flow through the filter.

I'm also wondering if some of this can't be explained by people trying to WOT the car under cold oil conditions, but that would assume the overpressure/bypass wasn't working. Maybe that's the issue (faulty bypass).
 

john@fatfab

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Hate to correct you, but the turbo cars pull thru the RPMs way faster than NA or stock car.
 

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Hate to correct you, but the turbo cars pull thru the RPMs way faster than NA or stock car.
Under load I can see it. Mashing the go pedal at idle with the clutch engaged or in neutral, I find it hard to believe it blips as fast.
 

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I asked my parts manager last week while my truck was in for service and he told me they wonā€™t use anything but the updated filter as the prior version is ever so slightly smaller. Also said that the aftermarket versions donā€™t have the right chamfer where it seats (would violate Fordā€™s patent) and can allow oil to bypass. They basically arenā€™t doing oil changes until they can get the updated filters in.
 

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Ok, at idle sure, but who free revs it to or anywhere redline??? Both of the failures we have seen were during wot pulls. And yes power adder cars pull thru the RPMs faster, in fact way faster. I can show you on a dyno graph in seconds how much it changes by horsepower to complete a pull thru 5th. I suspect this is likely the reason for the 2 failures we have seen. And no the filters were not crushed during install. If you have a NA car I would run one of the plastic liner variants and not worry too much about it. If you have a power added I would really try to find a steel liner one.
 

john@fatfab

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At this point we're now seeing even the vaunted 2087 filter collapsed (internally) so I'm just wondering if it isn't time to say to hell with it and install a remote coolant assembly and pick the filter of my choice.
Where did you hear or see that?
 

Angrey

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Ok, at idle sure, but who free revs it to or anywhere redline??? Both of the failures we have seen were during wot pulls. And yes power adder cars pull thru the RPMs faster, in fact way faster. I can show you on a dyno graph in seconds how much it changes by horsepower to complete a pull thru 5th. I suspect this is likely the reason for the 2 failures we have seen. And no the filters were not crushed during install. If you have a NA car I would run one of the plastic liner variants and not worry too much about it. If you have a power added I would really try to find a steel liner one.
I get and concede your point, I'm just thinking of the "worst case" condition where someone blips the throttle and a sudden pressure spike in the filter causes so much instant flow that it overwhelms the strength of the filter and causes it to fail.

I'm wondering if this isn't so much a flow or pressure problem and the bypass not working properly on some filters. Wouldn't a failure to bypass cause this type of issue on a cartridge style filter?
 

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yosv0610

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My order got canceled, I guess this weekend will be the last Motorcraft oil change for my Shelby, next one (if shortage/crisis continues) I will use Amsoil.

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ChipG

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My order got canceled, I guess this weekend will be the last Motorcraft oil change for my Shelby, next one (if shortage/crisis continues) I will use Amsoil.

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As did mine after I asked about status.
 
 




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