Oil filter shortage

Zuess765

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I don't get this discussion about purchasing expensive filters and all this. To me this is very simple, the correct oil filter spec from Ford is KR3Z6731A and its like a $23 oil filter. We all drive $60K to $90K cars, if you can't spend $25 bucks on the correct oil filter, something seems off. To me at least, $25 for an oil filter of the right spec is not a huge issue, its like once a year unless your tracking or driving lots of miles. Maybe I am missing something
 

galaxy

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If everything else is the same, an increase in oil pressure is reasonably inferred as a reduction in fluid friction/restriction, ostensibly by the filtration (if that's the only thing that's been altered between the two observances).

IF one ASSUMES that the increase in flow isn't due to a different routing through, around, etc the filtration media, (basically if they're designed to flow the same way) and the only change is the media itself, the logical conclusion would be that the white synthetic material does indeed flow more
Actually, wouldn't that be the other way around? Pressure by definition is the resistance to flow. If all else equal (and assuming the oil pump provides X volume). To reword your statement to make it correct the way I understand it, "If everything else is the same, an increase in oil pressure is reasonably inferred as an increase in fluid friction/restriction"

An increase in oil pressure from a filter change (or from anything for that matter), by all the logic I know, would indicate INCREASED restriction/less flow. An oil pump provides volume. Pressure is created by the design (restrictions) in the system.
 
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Tomster

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I did the same, just 3. Should I have ordered more? 🤨🤣🤣🤣
not in stock. I emailed and instructed them to cancel if they can not get them in a reasonable amount of time.
 

The Chairman

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Actually, the oil filter housing and mounting have a partial metal cage/sleeve already. When I get home, I can measure my spare housing and show the numbers.
Ok, so here’s the skinny:
The filter is 5 1/4” long:
10939774-C26B-4EC5-9BB6-6500C718BA15.jpeg

The metal sleeve in the housing is about 1 3/4” long:
C6DF1DC6-17A1-4801-9688-0CBE6ADB4947.jpeg

Presume the engine side mounting is about the same, that leaves just 1 3/4” that is supported by the structure of the filter only.
 


Creighton

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I’d just like 1 2087 so I can change the oil in my daily driver. Tried all the local dealerships, all say national backorder, tried ford parts online, charged then they sent an email stating they were refunding due to part back order. Seems ridiculous but this is the world we live in currently. I’m not bent out of shape if it’s a $40 part. As others have stated, it’s a $60k car, complaining about $40 for a maintenance item is silly.
 

Nfs1000f

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If the car is not a daily driver and the oil life is low (based on time), could the oil be changed without replacing the filter? Not ideal, but what is the harm?
 

galaxy

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If the car is not a daily driver and the oil life is low (based on time), could the oil be changed without replacing the filter? Not ideal, but what is the harm?
The harm is there’s absolutely zero reason to do that. Why would you do that with the quality filter options available? Amsoil is not running low or unavailable.
 

The Chairman

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Amazon or ebay, mustang parts sellers have any? You can use the filer with fresh oil change as well it's not like they are catching that much crap they'll plug.
If it’s the first oil change, you will be shocked how much stuff the filter trapped. There are several pix on the forum that show significant metallic pieces that survived the assembly process. Mine looked just like Tob’s.
I highly recommend the first oil change at 300-500 miles and always use a new filter.
 

The Chairman

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Engines are so clean now and filters so good
the filers can captura 100X new metal shedding with no impact.

Personally I use new filters from habit and the best motor oil can buy changing every 5000 miles for 8 Qt capacity.

I wouldn't worry about going to 10 K on anything....I probably being wasteful...haha
These engines are built in a decades old plant. Here’s what Tob’s filter looked like at 1,000 miles:
CB8069D9-2285-4FF8-BDCF-556AE4C1130A.jpeg

Mine looked like that at 500 miles.
Getting that first oil and filter out of there early keeps this stuff out of the bearing passages, etc.
 

Creighton

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Anyone know if the amsoil ea15k43 has the metal insert inside the filter like a 2087? I really don’t care on brand, would like to have the metal insert though.
 

The Chairman

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Very clean less than .5 % filter media blocked. Nothing getting through.

Dirty filters actually filter better than clean.

I see you point though and I change at 700 miles haha but I would not worry about leaving it longer...
After the first change, probably not an issue.
One of the problems with new engines is that if folks rev the engine or drive it hard before all this stuff is filtered out, the oil pressure bypass will allow unfiltered oil to get to the bearings where it stays forever.

There is a thread here where a guy unloaded a new GT500 in Vegas and foolishly rev’d the engine. Within minutes, the bearings were toast. And he wondered why Ford built him a defective engine….

I recommend people drive them easy for the first few hundred miles, change the oil and filter, then do whatever you want after that.
 
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GTthree50

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If it’s the first oil change, you will be shocked how much stuff the filter trapped. There are several pix on the forum that show significant metallic pieces that survived the assembly process. Mine looked just like Tob’s.
I highly recommend the first oil change at 300-500 miles and always use a new filter.
Too funny but this is what I know and have experienced. Lots of residual debris in my filter at first oil change except I did mine at 150 miles. Excessive, maybe but I know but it made me feel better. Amazing how many on this forum flamed me for doing this. Only one chance to do this and I have no regrets.
 
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