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Oil Change disaster... Currently Confused and Embarrassed

Torched10

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I get why some members like to change their oil and filter. I often wonder (while at the dealer) did I really get the synthetic oil I'm paying for or did they use a cheaper alternative? If you have the room and or the lift resources that makes the fluid/filter change plausible. If you don't (given the 10 quart capacity and filter access) it usually ends up being a mess no matter how careful one might be. Not to mention getting rid of the used oil. Given the 5000-7500 mile intervals [and my lift less one car garage] I'll continue using the shop handling my modifications.
No disrespect meant to the hands on crowd...
if you have a gt they just 10 qts.your note mention 6 and 8
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ORRadtech

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if you have a gt they just 10 qts.your note mention 6 and 8
'18 and newer GT uses 10 qts.
Older, '15-'17 GTs use 8 qts.

The OP said he drained 6 and put in 8. If he has a 15-17, 8 qts is correct.

EcoBoost engines use a shade under 6 qts for all years.
 

Arknsawchuck

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Same, i always give er the ol' full squeeze of the arm cannon until It doesn't turn anymore.
Same here, been hand tightening filters since the 70s and have never had one leak. Have had a hell of a time getting some off though.
 

NoVaGT

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Nice to hear everything is OK OP.
 

Bulldog9

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Glad it all worked out. It is always a challenge when learning the in and outs of a new car. I've been changing my own oil since the 70's, and as others mention, things to do on every full change is:
- Ensure the gasket from the old filter is not stuck to the engine. I only had this happen once, and it was the first time I changed the oil on my wife's Subaru with the 3.0.... What a mess......
- Wipe the filter mount clean, and swipe clean fresh oil on the new gasket.
- Tighten by hand, and a smidge more.
- Fill the oil one quart short (if it takes 10, put 9) Start the engine, let it idle, etc, inspect for leaks, oil light, etc. Shut off, clean up, let oil settle 10 minutes or so,
- Do final level check and add oil to full mark. Never just 'dump in' what you think it needs.

As for over filling, it depends on the motor, how deep the sump is, and how much oil you put in. One or two more will generally froth as the crank dips into the oil. This is bad as little air bubbles in the oil is not good. More than that and you risk damage as there is not enough airspace in the block/crankcase to 'breath' when pistons travel down. This can over pressure the crank, blow seals, oil rings, etc. A buddy of mine brought his car to the dealer for an oil change. The poorly trained monkeys drained the transmission of its ATF fluid, changed the filter and refilled with 8 quarts of oil, and on the 'courtesy test drive' blew the engine and trans............ Hello New car....

I've seen people forget to replace the filler plug, and had all the fresh oil drain out as they added it... lol. Had no idea till they started the car and the oil pressure light didn't go out.

Bottomline, no groveling or embarrassment necessary, we all do dumb stuff. Now if you do it again, you should never show your face in public.... ever.... :cwl:
 

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NoVaGT

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- Fill the oil one quart short (if it takes 10, put 9) Start the engine, let it idle, etc, inspect for leaks, oil light, etc. Shut off, clean up, let oil settle 10 minutes or so,
- Do final level check and add oil to full mark. Never just 'dump in' what you think it needs.
.......
You can just add the 10 quarts (18-20) the engine takes. No need to piddle around any more than that. We know what these engines take in oil capacity.
 
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WildHorse

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when trying to tighten it will a pipe wrench...
We can't be friends anymore. Haha. Seriously proper oil filter wrenches are like under 10 bucks.
 

TexasRebel

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-Always be sure to find the old gasket. They sometimes stick to the engine and don't come off with the filter.

-Only hand tighten the new filter, even if you had to use a tool to remove the old one.

I once had the oil pressure sensing tube (mechanical gauges in the '70s) come dislodged in traffic and blow oil full pressure directly onto my fan... Which in turn blew oil all over the engine compartment. All in all I'd lost about 1-2 cups of oil, but it looked like I'd dumped the whole 5qt. on the road. Lost oil generally looks like a whole lot more than it really is.
 

axios

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I get why some members like to change their oil and filter. I often wonder (while at the dealer) did I really get the synthetic oil I'm paying for or did they use a cheaper alternative? If you have the room and or the lift resources that makes the fluid/filter change plausible. If you don't (given the 10 quart capacity and filter access) it usually ends up being a mess no matter how careful one might be. Not to mention getting rid of the used oil. Given the 5000-7500 mile intervals [and my lift less one car garage] I'll continue using the shop handling my modifications.
No disrespect meant to the hands on crowd...
You don't need a lift and you don't need a garage. All you need is love for wrenching.

I did my first oil change in the street, on race ramps :)
 

WildHorse

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Bulldog9

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You can just add the 10 quarts (18-20) the engine takes. No need to piddle around any more than that. We know what these engines take in oil capacity.
Hey man whatever floats your boat and take whatever risks your wallet can handle.
 

David Schmidt

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I get why some members like to change their oil and filter. I often wonder (while at the dealer) did I really get the synthetic oil I'm paying for or did they use a cheaper alternative? If you have the room and or the lift resources that makes the fluid/filter change plausible. If you don't (given the 10 quart capacity and filter access) it usually ends up being a mess no matter how careful one might be. Not to mention getting rid of the used oil. Given the 5000-7500 mile intervals [and my lift less one car garage] I'll continue using the shop handling my modifications.
I used to change my own oil because it was cheaper, and because I could. And I used to do it outside too. I once started adding oil with the drain plug out. One quart down the tube and I'm thinking, "what is that running water sound?" You only do that once.
No disrespect meant to the hands on crowd...
None taken. I'm changing my own oil now because now my kids are grown, and because I can. And because while I'm generally trusting of other humans, it's just too easy for Jiffy Lube to pull down the wrong oil hose from the reel, only put in 8 when I need 10, and so on. I eliminate all the guesswork by doing it myself.
 

WildHorse

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boB

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My 2019 service manual says: do not lubricate the o-ring; 44 in*lb; 180 degrees.
The filter box says put oil on the seal; 1/2 to 3/4 turn after it just seats (that is what I do but maybe I will do it per the manual next time and see if it ends up the same).

It's not that I *like* changing oil (or most other maintenance), I just want it done right.
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