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Noise / Rattle - Driver side - help needed - solved!!!

Birdmaster

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Good morning guys,

we own a MY2020 GT Premium, great car, a lot of fun.

But, we have a big problem with the noise between 1500 - 2500 rpm.



There is a noise or rattling on the driver side, omg...

We done a lot of things already (nothing worked):

- Door panel removed and insulated
- Weatherstrip removed and the plate under it, tighten the srews under it
- Stones between door and Front removed
- Exterior mirror mask off
- Side stripe and wheel arch checked
- A and C Pillar removed

We are hopeless...

Thanks for help.

Best regards,
Birdmaster
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ice445

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Rattles are tough because they usually come from somewhere that doesn't correspond to what you hear. First thing first though, put a person or a heavy weight in the passenger seat and see if it stops. 2020 cars seem to have a lot of issues with seat rattles. Also check the grab handle on the rear of the seat that's used to lean it forward, hold it and see if the rattle stops. Also press on the vent trim next to the gauge cluster, that's where my rattle was at.
 
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Birdmaster

Birdmaster

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Thank you.

Passenger seat was checked with heavy weight and a person.
Press on the vent rim was checked.

Grab handle on the rear should be checked.

We have done test drives with persons on the rear seats...
 

Freedom

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I remember people saying that the sideskirt pushpins weren't pushed in all the way. Go underneath your car and push them back in if thats ur issue. Good luck!
 
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Birdmaster

Birdmaster

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@Freedom Thank you. we orderd last friday 3 new pushpins. One is not so tight, i would like to replace it.
 

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Cobra Jet

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It’s very hard to determine from a vid where the rattle may be or how it really sounds vs. being in the car “live”.

A few known instances of metallic like rattles or buzzes while driving:

1) Get the car safety on a lift or jack stands. Check the e-brake cable and assembly. This is located on the driver side, tucked up against the driver side trans tunnel.

The assembly is located between the driver tunnel and driveshaft/midpipe - you cannot see it just by looking under the car when the car is at rest on the ground. If the cable or the assembly is loose, it will “rat-tat-tat-tat” either on the trans tunnel OR against the driveshaft at certain RPMs. The cable needs to be tightened.
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/how-to-adjust-your-parking-brake.25204/

2) The aluminum transmission spacer plate between the block and trans will buzz or rattle at certain RPMs. This is a known issue across the S550 platform, even on Shelby’s. Again with the car lifted safely, check the plate which can be seen at bottom and in between engine and trans. Tap on it and see if the plate is loose or makes a “tinking” noise. If you find it’s loose, the fix is a piece of Dynamat (or similar product) tucked between the plate and block.
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/engine-transmission-plate-noise-fix.115718/

This member solved a similar rattle:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/6r80-vibration-at-flex-plate.100908/#post-2787893


The other source of a metallic rattle has been the BCM at the rear of the car. As others have said, sometimes noise carries and it’s hard to distinguish exactly where it’s coming from. My prior 2016 S550 had a metallic tapping noise which was hard to find, but I did eventually find it to be coming from the trunk and posted the fix here, which has helped others fix the same annoying noise:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/passenger-side-rear-1-4-rattle-how-to-get-peace.62664/

4) Loose Torx screws that hold on weather strip trim:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/chasing-rattle.132423/

5) The oldest and original rattle up front on driver side was very prevalent in the 2015-2016 S550 and that rattle was coming from the headlight assembly. I haven’t heard of any 2018+ S550’s having that issue as it seemed to have been fixed years ago during whatever assembly revision was put into place. You can check this thread if it helps any:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/dash-rattle.16041/
 
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Birdmaster

Birdmaster

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@Cobra Jet Woww!!! Thank you so much! Great answer, we have to do a lot of work ;-)
 

TopJimmyCooks

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Kind of hard to hear from the video. But one of things I always check is for any tools left behind. Multiple times I have found tools up at the base of the hood where the windshield meets it. I've got screwdrivers, body panel trim tab tools, sockets....left there by certified dealership mechanics.
 

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nrm101

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Also check the rear seat bottom is clipped in, mine comes lose from time to time, also check the backs of the rear seat are locked into place also, if they get open you can't really visually see it
 

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Birdmaster

Birdmaster

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Thanks to all for your help. We have to check our car on friday and saturday. My wife gets crazy because i spent all my time in the garage.....
 

Elp_jc

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Hey Birdmaster, you're aware basically ALL Coyote engines make a damn rattle around those rpm, right? Are you sure it's not that??? It sounds very similar on your video. It's a high-frequency rattling that at least on my car stops when just maintaining speed on a level road, and as soon as you depress the gas pedal even a milllimeter, it comes back immediately. And it disappears around 3K rpm. If you accelerate quickly while it's doing it, it goes away. Before you keep chasing ghosts, make sure it's not that :). Good luck.
 
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Birdmaster

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@Elp_jc Thank you, but i dont think so. It is not a engine noise. We recognize the rattle most with window closed. If you open the window a little bit, the noise is still there. Open the window more you cant here it. Freaky...

You can here the noise sometimes on bad roads.
 
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Elp_jc

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Okay, so back to chasing it :). The doors make a lot of racket too. The worst offender is a tube near the window regulator, but it requires to remove the door panels, and then unseal the small plastic cover, and shove something between that tube and the door. I'm going on the first long trip next week. Will probably have to deal with multiple rattles when I come back. Ha ha. I quieted down the worst offenders (middle gauges, vents, etc), but every time I hit bad pavement, I can hear more rattles. The one that is starting to bug me is near the C-pillar, so that's the next one I'll have to deal with. Frustrating. Good luck, and please post if you find the culprit. Take care.
 

StangTime

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Okay, so back to chasing it :). The doors make a lot of racket too. The worst offender is a tube near the window regulator, but it requires to remove the door panels, and then unseal the small plastic cover, and shove something between that tube and the door. I'm going on the first long trip next week. Will probably have to deal with multiple rattles when I come back. Ha ha. I quieted down the worst offenders (middle gauges, vents, etc), but every time I hit bad pavement, I can hear more rattles. The one that is starting to bug me is near the C-pillar, so that's the next one I'll have to deal with. Frustrating. Good luck, and please post if you find the culprit. Take care.
I don't have a problem with any more rattles in the doors. Damn solid now even with the stereo pounding. In the 2nd pic there's a cable running to the rear of the door across the vapor barrier. I made sure it was stuck to the door with some butyl rubber sealer. (not shown)

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