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SH!FT

SH!FT

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Diode Dynamics Interior Light Conversion installed:

Much needed upgrade. CJ Pony's install video is decent. My wife says the vanity lights in the visor are too bright now.

I hated installing these.

The sockets pushed through when I tried to install the map LEDs. Pulling the map light fixture down was a b!tch. Needle nose pliers won't release the clips without causing damage to plastic and/or cloth ceiling.

My process for the map light removal:
1657165374005.jpeg
1657165866679.jpeg

  1. I had to pull and pry on the map fixture hard to bend the white retainers downward which creates space for plastic tools.
  2. Used a hooked shaped trim tool to pry the fixture downward and depress the outer side of the clip.
  3. Used a straight trim tool to depress the inner side of the clip.
  4. Clip 1 finally dropped out
  5. Step 3 on clip 2.
  6. Step 2 on clip 2.
  7. Clip 2 finally dropped out.
  8. Bent the white retainers upward.
  9. Cleaned my sweat and tears off the ceiling.


CJ Pony does a great job explaining the vanity lights. The knife blade was always twisted away from the light cover while removing the covers.
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  1. Slight clockwise twist in the corner to loosen the cover.
  2. Pry up the bottom tab
  3. Pry up the top tab.

The glove box light was hot, hard to see, and fell apart during removal.
Also, I realized that my factory light was staying on when the glove box was latched. The switch was aligned incorrectly.
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  1. What needs to be pried way to unmount.
  2. How to put it back together when it falls apart.
  3. How to test it: The left bulb contact has continuity with the right harness pin.
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SH!FT

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Aeroforce CN Series Interceptor Gauge installed:

The interceptor gauge is a great tool.
I've been displaying IAT2 and ignition advance. I have the indicator lights set to blink when any positive knock is detected.

The gauge has a ton of features. Toggling with the 2 button takes a little practice and patience. User Manual

Both lethalperformance.com and aeroforcetech.com have awesome customer service. AeroForce is having supply issues at the moment, but Lethal Performance still has some AF-CNF01-2011 in stock. I wanted the black/white display, but had to settle for the blue. The blue display is a bit hard to see when the sun hits it.

I used the Glow Shift Air Vent Gauge Pod to the mount the gauge. I added the AeroForce Bezel Cover to fill in the gap.

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Laughed when I unboxed the faceplate with the 5.0 "logo" but it looks okay once it's installed.
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Different bezels without the cover.
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The install:
Glow Shift install video
American Muscle video: How to run OBDII cable to air vent

Glow Shift's install video is good. I added 3 layers of 5 mm fine line masking tape to the gauge pod to keep it snug in the vent. Then a few strips of electrical tape around the outside to keep pod from spinning.
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Cut out a piece of closed cell foam to stop air flow. Opened the top hole on the vent to 1/2" and clipped the left rib to make room for the OBDII cable.
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Removed some insulation from the cable to allow ~2" of flexibility. Then ran the cable as shown in the American Muscle video.
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Wrapped the interceptor gauge with a layer electrical tape before press fitting it into the pod.
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The bezel cover clips over the bezel. I didn't like how far the gauge stuck out of the vent with the bezel cover installed. I thinned the back of the cover with the bezel inside until the cover was even with the back of the bezel.
1657337357609.jpeg
 

hlfbkd420

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Don't let your mod choices make this car an unenjoyable DD.
I have a roush p2 on my 2019. Haven’t met many (none in fact) cars in Mexico that can outrun it and I live in AZ.
 
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SH!FT

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I have a roush p2 on my 2019. Haven’t met many (none in fact) cars in Mexico that can outrun it and I live in AZ.
Same story here. Although, I think the time is limited before the everyday EV starts blowing our doors off.
 

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Diode Dynamics Interior Light Conversion installed:

Much needed upgrade. CJ Pony's install video is decent. My wife says the vanity lights in the visor are too bright now.

I hated installing these.

The sockets pushed through when I tried to install the map LEDs. Pulling the map light fixture down was a b!tch. Needle nose pliers won't release the clips without causing damage to plastic and/or cloth ceiling.

My process more map light removal:
1657165374005.jpeg
1657165866679.jpeg

  1. I had to pull and pry on the map fixture hard to bend the white retainers downward which creates space for plastic tools.
  2. Used a hooked shaped trim tool to pry the fixture downward and depress the outer side of the clip.
  3. Used a straight trim tool to depress the inner side of the clip.
  4. Clip 1 finally dropped out
  5. Step 3 on clip 2.
  6. Step 2 on clip 2.
  7. Clip 2 finally dropped out.
  8. Bent the white retainers upward.
  9. Cleaned my sweat and tears off the ceiling.
OK. I'm at the point where I tried following Diode Dynamics' instructions, which were not really helpful. I somehow got the passenger side map light in, but I did indeed push the driver side socket too hard and it is now buried in the housing.

Then I watched the CJ Pony Parts video, which was only slightly better. I am now going to try your process as above. I may also try your vanity light instructions. The glovebox bulb went flying when I opened the package, and based on all of the comments, I'm going to leave well enough alone and just keep the OEM bulb in there.

Question 1) The flat trim tool that you used on the inner side of the clips - did you insert it as shown in the picture? I.E. did you depress the inner side by pushing the long end sideways into the clip?

Question 2): How do you get the map light sockets back into place? From the looks of the inside of the fixture in your picture above, it's almost like a sealed unit.
 

MCS

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hlfbkd420

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What did you use to put the tower strut back on? Ford installed my Roush Phase 2 but said that putting the strut back on might hit my GT500 hood.
You need to drop the motor with new motor mounts and possibly grind away a bit of the brace.
 

MCS

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You need to drop the motor with new motor mounts and possibly grind away a bit of the brace.
damn. That’s not happening anytime soon.
 
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SH!FT

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OK. I'm at the point where I tried following Diode Dynamics' instructions, which were not really helpful. I somehow got the passenger side map light in, but I did indeed push the driver side socket too hard and it is now buried in the housing.
Yeah, didn't take much to push mine through either. Not a big deal. The new map lights are worth it.

Then I watched the CJ Pony Parts video, which was only slightly better. I am now going to try your process as above. I may also try your vanity light instructions. The glovebox bulb went flying when I opened the package, and based on all of the comments, I'm going to leave well enough alone and just keep the OEM bulb in there.
CJ Pony's video are super helpful, but a bit sugarcoated. If their video cuts in or out during the removal or install of a fastener, assume it's going to be a pain in the ass. A process usually takes me double their listed install time.

Glove box light: It's worth it and probably the least sketchy to install. Follow CJ Pony's instruction. I posted a pic of how to reassemble it if the switch falls apart. The OEM bulb may be hot.

Vanity lights: CJ Pony does an awesome job explaining this. I do recommend using similar tools to what I used. NOTE: Consult the wife beforehand. Mine hates them. They make her look like a ghost apparently..

Question 1) The flat trim tool that you used on the inner side of the clips - did you insert it as shown in the picture? I.E. did you depress the inner side by pushing the long end sideways into the clip?
Yes, exactly like the picture. Don't use anything metal or pry on plastic.
  1. Made a gap between the roof liner and map light housing by hand.
  2. Slipped the 90 trim tool up against the metal retainer clip and popped the outer prong.
  3. Kept the 90 trim tool on the outer lip of the retainer clip while prying the gap larger to allow straight trim tool to reach the inner prong of the clip. Note: Keep an eye that the elbow of the 90 tool doesn't crease or damage the roof liner in the process. Prying caused the white roof bracket to bend downward. It's no problem to bend it back up before reinstalling the map light. This gives the housing a nice tight fit to the roof liner.
  4. Popped the inner prong with the straight tool.
  5. Same process on the other side.
Be patient.. The outer prong will probably reseat on you multiple times because the 90 tool slipped off the outer lip.

1666379628045.png

Question 2): How do you get the map light sockets back into place? From the looks of the inside of the fixture in your picture above, it's almost like a sealed unit.
There's metal tabs that will pop right back into place.
 

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SH!FT

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I was expecting the GT500 hood to provide more clearance than the factory hood.
If the shop said they left it off because it MAY rub the hood, they might just do that automatically because it rubbed factory hoods in the past so they don't even try any more. So, possibly it won't rub your GT500 hood?
 
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Really enjoyed following along with this build. Thank you for taking the time to write all this up with such detail and good photos. And great job on the install. I bet its so much fun to open it up on the road now!
 
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If the shop said they left it off because it MAY rub the hood, they might just do that automatically because it rubbed factory hoods in the past so they don't even try any more. So, possibly it won't rub your GT500 hood?
@MCS try the tin foil test. 1" of clearance between the tallest point on the blower (center rib on the Roush) and fully latched hood should give you the room needed to install the Ford tower brace. The Ford brace is ~0.75" thick.
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