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SH!FT

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Installation Phase

CJ Pony's install video is helpful to reference while sticking to Roush's instructions.

The Roush intake manifold arrived well packaged, but covered in foam particles. The cooling fins had to be carefully vacuumed. The 8 O-rings had to be removed and cleaned. I cleaned all mounting surfaces on the IM and SC. Also lubed all O-ring seals with a little motor oil.

It's best to cover the 3 engine coolant hard pipes by the timing cover with masking tape to prevent damage while setting the IM in place. A sharpie does work well for touchups on any of the black hard piping and hose clamps.

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Route and secure the engine harness to the back of the IM before installing the IC hard lines onto the IM. Securing the two 3/4" hose clamps is a PITA. Heating and soaping the IC hoses helps. The correct clamp install tool is key which I did not have.

As seen in the picture above, the top O-ring seal on the IM is fussy. It will spring out of the groove if it's not untwisted.


The supercharger arrived well packaged and clean. It's heavy. I shouldn't have set it in place by myself. The placement of the SC must be smooth and accurate. I had Covid, so I was on my own. Here's how I did it alone:
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  • Roush's foam packing is pretty sturdy. I cleaned the foam block and set it across the fuse and battery box.
  • The disassembly phase empties the space between radiator and the timing cover making it possible to carefully stand on the front sway bar.
  • I hopped into the engine bay after setting SC on the foam.
  • I slid the SC from the foam to my lap while sitting on the fender.
  • I needed to be mindful of my heels by the radiator, but I felt confident setting the SC in place.
It was awesome to finally have the blower mounted!
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The rest of the install was super straightforward.

A couple minor wtf moments:
  • Roush's picture on page 60 for the notch locations on the radiator close-out panels is not correct for my car.
  • I'm not thrilled how the IC pump mounting bracket blocks the radiator petcock drain.
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Next up: UPR dual oil catch can install
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UPR Dual Oil Catch Can Install

The UPR dual catch can kit is plug n play as advertised. The quality is awesome. The instructions are good. The mounts and fittings are super adjustable. I added the magnetic drain plug option.

The passenger side can dropped right in with no adjustments needed.
I decided not to plug the hose coming from the back of the supercharger as recommended. I left that boost bypass actuator attached to the PCV hose assembly. Instead, I removed the quick disconnect elbow from the clean hose on the catch can and installed the clean hose onto the Roush PCV tee fitting.
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UPR doesn't crank down the threaded fittings making for easy adjustment if needed. I decided to rotate the driver side can's top (dirty) fitting 180 degrees from what's shown in the instructions.
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No issues with fitment under the coil covers.

Next up: Final Assembly
 
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Final Assembly Phase

CJ Pony's install video doesn't go into detail and Roush's instructions need updating.

There were definitely a few wtf moments here. It took me 3 tries to complete the “RPP End-of-Line” process. Nearly killed the battery.

1) Roush's instructions don't list the coolant compacity of the Phase 2 SC cooling system.
  • I reached out Roush via email and was told 1 gallon. No no.. it's 2 gallons.
  • The IC drank about 3/4 gallon on the initial fill.
  • The IC pump ran dry within seconds after startup during the PCM flash. Luckily I was in the driver seat when it started to squeal. I immediately cut the engine.
  • I started searching for leaks after cracking into the 2nd gallon of Motorcraft yellow and continuing to watch the IC de-gas bottle empty.
2) The DT-CALIM instructions are out of order and just bad.

3) I didn't read the note on page 73 of Roush's instructions... Oops
  • I tried to run the ICM flash step when prompted.
  • The ICM flash fails and you start “RPP End-of-Line” from the beginning.

4) DTC needed to be ignored.
  • The KOEO resulted P170A "Clutch switch out of self test range"
  • If DTC not ignored you start “RPP End-of-Line” from the beginning.
  • I'm wondering if the Steeda clutch spring could cause P170A..

The VXDIAG VCX Nano J2534 works great. Its com speed may be a little slow.
I have details on the software install process here.
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Car sounds pretty good!

Next up: SC Install Review
 

DrZed

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... I'd really like video of your first drive... and first impressions...

I too am considering this kit on the M6 (2021)
 

LSchicago

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SH!FT

SH!FT

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... I'd really like video of your first drive... and first impressions...

I too am considering this kit on the M6 (2021)
The video below really sums it up even though it's for the 10 speed auto.
  • Sounds stock (no whine).
  • Drives stock until you punch it.
  • Traction control ruins all low speed power gains.
  • Even and predictable power with trac off.
  • It's pants crapping fast once the tires hook.

The Roush P2 kit is perfect for my application.
  • Super clean install.
  • Parts are great quality.
  • Don't have the warranty, but I can get a service appt. quick at the local dealer if I don't feel like doing maintenance or troubleshooting.
I recommend adding tires, oil catch cans, whine sound tube, and resonator delete to the install of whatever top mount blower you choose.

I'll only recommend this kit if your end goal is a DD running Roush's tune.
Consider another blower if you're the type that may get more power hungry later. Roush's selling point is serviceability. That's gone once protuned.

Hope this helps!


 
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Build Review

The install was a ton of fun even though I was home sick with covid that week.
  • I drove the car NA for 4k miles before adding the Roushcharger at 8250 miles.
  • SC install date: 4/30/22 - 5/8/22
  • Car was lifted on 8" ramps for the whole build and I stood on a 5 gallon bucket when necessary.
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The jacking rails and tank covers put me slightly over the $10k budget.

Build ListCostVendorPurposeStatus
Roush TVS Supercharger Kit Phase 2$ 7,855.00TRE PerformancePower gainInstalled
Ford Performance Supercharger Coil Cover Kit$ 280.40CJ Pony PartsMake engine bay prettyInstalled
Roush Max Cooling Upgrade Kit $2,119.99$ -CJ Pony PartsDecrease IAT if neededNot purchased
Roushcharged Fender Badges$ 37.44EBay+5hpInstalled
GT500 5w-50 Oil Filler Cap$ 6.11Ford DealerMistake proofingInstalled
J&L Oil Separator Kit 3.0 Black Anodized Driver & Passenger Side $329.49CJ Pony PartsOil in intake manifold is badReturned
UPR Dual Oil Catch Cans w/ Magnetic Drain Plug PnP for Roushcharger$ 389.62UPR ProductsOil in intake manifold is badModified and installed
UPR Easy Oil Drain Valve$ 57.87UPR ProductsPlastic drain plug badInstalled
Yellow 13DL Prediluted Engine Coolant - 2 gallons$ 28.72Ford DealerFill I/C coolant system + 1 gal extraInstalled
Motorcraft Oil Filter FL-500-S$ 6.78Ford DealerOil changeInstalled
Motorcraft SAE 5W-50 Full Synthetic Motor Oil 10qts$ 117.50Ford DealerOil change + 2 qts extraInstalled
SCT Performance Programmer BDX$ 419.00CJ Pony PartsMonitoring & Save the tuneInstalled
VXDIAG VCX Nano IDS Programming Tool$ 126.56AmazonFlash preloaded Roush tunePCM flash complete
RDT PCM Programming Software$ -Roush Clean TechPCM flash softwarePCM flash complete
FORScan ELM327 OBD2 USB Adapter$ 21.00AmazonAlter as built codes to enable boost gaugeBoost gauge enabled
JMS Fuel Pump Voltage Booster$ 489.00CJ Pony PartsMaintain fuel outputInstalled and programmed
Ford Performance Hood Lift Kit$ 82.00CJ Pony PartsFunctionalityModified and installed
Steeda Clutch Spring Assist 35 PSI$ 24.95CJ Pony PartsFunctionalityInstalled
Steeda Chassis Jacking Rail Ultra-Lite Low-Profile$ 161.60CJ Pony PartsFunctionalityInstalled
California Pony Cars Radiator Coolant Tank Cover Black$ 84.99CJ Pony PartsMake engine bay prettyInstalled
California Pony Cars Master Cylinder Cover Black$ 65.49CJ Pony PartsMake engine bay prettyInstalled
Total$ 10,254.03


Favorite part of install
Mounting the blower.

Least favorite part of install
Engine splash shield.

Mistakes were made
- Bought the wrong harmonic balancer install tool.
- Tried to run the ICM flash prompt during the PCM flash.
- Snapped the head on 1 of the 17 screws while reinstalling the splash shield.

More mods to come
- Foster whine sound tube
- Roush H-pipe
- Billet shift knob
- Strut tower brace
 
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Just tried to backup the Roush tune using the SCT Performance BDX Programmer.

When I select Program Vehicle:
"Device could not determine vehicle support information at this time."

If I select Continue:
Error #13002 "Vehicle is not supported at this time."

Will be contacting SCT on Monday.
  • I've updated the device via WiFi and the Device Updater app.
  • Vehicle Info provides the correct info
  • Gauges work configured as "Ford Gas 08+".
  • Battery was at 12.5V.
 
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I was able to get the FR3Z-16A200-A Ford strut tower brace to fit over the Roushcharger.
  • I made 0.41" thick spacers for between the cowl brace and strut brace.
  • The clearance over the SC is about 1/4".
  • The brace gets pretty warm.
  • I'll be painting the brace and spacers black.
DIY details here.

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Foster 100% whine increase sound tube kit installed:

It's an awesome kit. Great customer support. Shawn provides good install instructions once the kit is purchased. The volume of the sound tube is adjustable.

It would have been easiest to install during the Roushcharger install.


I decided to connect the sound tube to the airbox instead of the inlet pipe:
The 100% increase sound tube is quite large (~1" ID). The Roush coil cover and UPR oil catch can hose block the gap that the sound tube requires to easily reach the Roush inlet pipe. It's a straight shot to the airbox enclosure.

Shawn was quick to confirm that connecting to the enclosed airbox works.. but the amount of whine is notably reduced.

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The sound level and quality from the airbox is exactly what I was looking for. I considered dampening the sound tube while running the stock exhaust (no active exhaust tech).

I have no trouble hearing the whine with a Roush H-pipe installed.

The whine gets hard to hear with the windows down on the highway. Connecting to the inlet pipe is likely a must for any louder exhaust or convertibles.


How I retrofitted to the airbox:
  • I cut 9" off of the provided sound tube.
  • I installed the grommet and straight barb in the center of the arch surface on the airbox

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Roush cut and clamp H-pipe installed:

Sounds great with stock mufflers. I don't have the active exhaust tech. It is quite a bit louder.

The install wasn't bad without a lift, but the Roush instructions definitely sugarcoat the process. They also don't warn you that the mufflers would twist and drop suddenly once cut from the resonator.

I chose to remove the exhaust before making the cuts. American Muscle has a good install video.

Removing the factory exhaust alone is not fun if you're worried about damaging the resonator. I won't be welding my H-pipe. The 3 piece is way easier the manage.

How I dropped the factory exhaust alone:
  1. Loosened all the 15mm nuts on the 2 factory clamps.
  2. Set a creeper under each muffler and a pad under the resonator.
  3. Removed the 13mm bolts and disconnected the 4 hangers.
  4. Lowered the mufflers onto the creepers.
  5. While under the rear pipes, I popped the resonator out of the factory clamps
  6. Pushed and rolled the exhaust out from under the car.
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  • 2" wide masking tape made a straight cut line for the reciprocating saw (zip ties apparently work too).
  • Smoothed the cuts with an angle grinder and 36 grit pad.
  • Vacuumed any chips out of the pipes.
  • Greased the rear pipe ends
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Roush's instructions say to insert each rear pipe (with hangers attached) into the installed H-pipe until they bottom out. It's not that easy with only a 5.5" cut from the resonator. I needed the rear hangers detached to allow for more push back.

NOTE: Cutting more than 5.5" from resonator on the Roush kit could set the tips too far under the bumper.

How I did the rear pipe install:
  1. Installed the H-pipe loosely into the factory clamps; set a creepy under the H-pipe incase it fell during the rear pipe install.
  2. Clipped the front hanger then caught only the first few threads of the 13mm mounting bolt while balancing the rear pipe in place.
  3. Set the muffler on a 5 gal. bucket instead of installing the rear hanger.
  4. Leaving off the rear hanger and leaving play in the front hanger allowed the muffler to slide much farther back on the bucket.
  5. Connected the greased rear pipe to the H-pipe.
  6. Hand tightened the aftermarket clamp.
  7. Installed the the rear hanger bolts and tightened the front hanger bolt.
  8. Repeated 2-7 for the other rear pipe.
  9. Pushed up and in on the H-pipe while torqueing all clamps to 30 Nm.
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How I adjusted the muffler tip height:
  1. Set 5 gal. buckets under the mufflers with the rear end raised 8".
  2. Adjusted the aftermarket band clamps to allow the rear pipes to twist and rest on the buckets.
  3. Fine adjusted the height of the muffler tips using shims.
  4. Torqued the aftermarket band clamps to 30 Nm.
  5. The tips dropped slightly when the buckets and shims were removed.
NOTE: I set the tips lower than factory to make it easier to clean them. Mark the rear pipes at 6:00 before removing the resonator to set the tips at factory height. There's a groove at 6:00 on the H-pipes.

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SpeedForm billet retro shift knob installed:

I'm happy with the purchase.

This is way cheaper than the FP Bullitt shift knob and has aluminum instead of plastic threads. It's a bit bigger and lighter than the OEM 6 speed knob though.

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Minor issue:
The jam nut kept wanting to spin while installing the knob.

M12 x 1.25 nyloc nut would be best, but adding a washer did the trick.

My process:
  1. Loctite 242 on shifter post threads.
  2. Bottomed out the jam nut; stacked the washer.
  3. Bottomed out the knob noting the engravement position.
  4. Removed the knob; backed up the jam nut a couple threads; tested the knob.
  5. Repeated #4 until the engravement position started to move CC.
  6. Loctite 242 before the final install.
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luke1333

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Just went through the build. Enjoyed following along and nice car!!
 
 




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