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SH!FT
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- #32
The Disassembly
Before starting:
**Edit** new link for Roush 422184 Install manual:
https://www.roushperformance.com/cd...E-Mustang_20230816.pdf?v=12456078069995145428
I removed the bumper to delete the active shutters. The stutters are gone for good due to the potential cooling issues with this kit. Bumper out of the way also makes the remainder of the install much easier.
I had to get a little creative sliding and removing the factory IM by myself. Luckily it's plastic. The mounting bolts aren't removable which is annoying, but I was able to tape them out of the way to avoid scratching the head. I used a bungee to hold the IM forward while disconnecting plugs and 3 push clips by the fire wall.
More to come!
Before starting:
- Washed/waxed the car to prevent scratching the front end.
- Added a UPR easy oil drain valve because the OEM plug is stupid.
- Changed to 5w-50 with the car hot.
- I've always ran 93 oct.
- Unlocked doors, rolled down windows, and unlatched trunk.
**Edit** new link for Roush 422184 Install manual:
https://www.roushperformance.com/cd...E-Mustang_20230816.pdf?v=12456078069995145428
I removed the bumper to delete the active shutters. The stutters are gone for good due to the potential cooling issues with this kit. Bumper out of the way also makes the remainder of the install much easier.
I had to get a little creative sliding and removing the factory IM by myself. Luckily it's plastic. The mounting bolts aren't removable which is annoying, but I was able to tape them out of the way to avoid scratching the head. I used a bungee to hold the IM forward while disconnecting plugs and 3 push clips by the fire wall.
More to come!
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HoosierDaddy
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FWIW Also doable with car on the ground. One wrench and something to scrape off excess body sealer if you care about that sort of thing.
frestylmotox01
Well-Known Member
Looks great, can't wait to see the final product. I just finished installing an ESS tuning kit. Look forward to hearing your impression of the kit after the install is completed.
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SH!FT
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- #36
Modification Phase
CJ Pony's install video and Roush's instructions are still spot on at this point. A cup of soapy water and a heat gun made swapping the fittings and hoses around a bit easier.
Only issue was that I didn't have the right tool available for the timing cover mod. I don't have shop air ran to the garage yet, and the portable compressor doesn't have the capacity to run the die grinder.
I started with a 1" drill bit to remove a majority of the post. This worked great. It was fast and made only large chips.
The 12v right angle die grinder didn't have the juice to make heavy cuts. I had to resort to the 18v 4.5" angle grinder. This was not ideal and pretty sketchy. I'm lucky I didn't do damage.
I was able to finish up with the 12v die grinder and a 36 grit pad.
In hind sight, I wish I polished the surface with a finer grit pad to match the finish of the cover. I didn't realize how visible it would be after the pulley assembly is installed. It won't be visible once the rest of the goodies are installed... but I won't forget that it could be better.
As for the M8 bore, I only drilled 30 mm deep and used a bottoming tap.
I covered the whole car with plastic drop cloth, ripped a hole, and reinforced hot spots with tape. Once finished, I washed up and changed clothes before rolling up the drop cloth starting from the trunk. Clean engine bay!
CJ Pony's install video and Roush's instructions are still spot on at this point. A cup of soapy water and a heat gun made swapping the fittings and hoses around a bit easier.
Only issue was that I didn't have the right tool available for the timing cover mod. I don't have shop air ran to the garage yet, and the portable compressor doesn't have the capacity to run the die grinder.
I started with a 1" drill bit to remove a majority of the post. This worked great. It was fast and made only large chips.
The 12v right angle die grinder didn't have the juice to make heavy cuts. I had to resort to the 18v 4.5" angle grinder. This was not ideal and pretty sketchy. I'm lucky I didn't do damage.
I was able to finish up with the 12v die grinder and a 36 grit pad.
In hind sight, I wish I polished the surface with a finer grit pad to match the finish of the cover. I didn't realize how visible it would be after the pulley assembly is installed. It won't be visible once the rest of the goodies are installed... but I won't forget that it could be better.
As for the M8 bore, I only drilled 30 mm deep and used a bottoming tap.
I covered the whole car with plastic drop cloth, ripped a hole, and reinforced hot spots with tape. Once finished, I washed up and changed clothes before rolling up the drop cloth starting from the trunk. Clean engine bay!
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frestylmotox01
Well-Known Member
It wasn't to bad, all of the IC connections are silicone on it so it was mostly just trying to maneuver stuff around, but I think it would have be a PIA if it was hard piping, at least with not modifying things.
The allure of this kit to me, was that It retained almost all of the stock Performance Pack bracing. It didn't involve cutting up any of the stock stuff, so if I want to go back to stock, I only need to puzzle piece it back together.
The car drives like stock until you get above 3k and then it's a different story.
Where in CT are you?
frestylmotox01
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Did you ever finish this up?
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SH!FT
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- #40
Yup, finished that weekend. Just slacking on the write up. No IAT issues so far. There's little to no SC whine which is kind of a bummer.
The ESS kit's IC plumbing looks super efficient. Minimal volume to pressurize.
Did your kit require an aftermarket crank pulley? That pulley swap was the hardest part of the Roush kit install.
I'm by Waterbury CT.
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SH!FT
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- #41
Crankshaft Pulley Replacement
This gets its own post because it pissed me off. Hopefully this helps others.
I bought what I thought was the recommended style Harmonic Balancer Puller and Installer kit.
I found this style puller tool to be useless on the 2020 factory pulley, but Zander13's removal video is still helpful. This installer tool works well, but had to make my long reach threaded adapter.
Hindsight is 20/20:
My Factory Pulley Removal Process
My Roush Pulley Install Process
So here's the issue..
The crankshaft threads don't catch until 3" deep. The threads bottom out at 3.75".
Luckily Roush provides a new damper bolt. I was able to make the OEM bolt into a usable long reach adapter by turning down the hex head and threading it to fit the installer tool (shown above).
I also added a 3.5" diameter by 1.5" thick delrin spacer making easy access for the 1 1/4" combo wrench and stacked 5/8" nut against the jam nut to insure that my diy long reach adapter didn't bottom out in the crankshaft (shown below).
Notes:
This gets its own post because it pissed me off. Hopefully this helps others.
I bought what I thought was the recommended style Harmonic Balancer Puller and Installer kit.
I found this style puller tool to be useless on the 2020 factory pulley, but Zander13's removal video is still helpful. This installer tool works well, but had to make my long reach threaded adapter.
Hindsight is 20/20:
- The 4" (100mm) 3 jaw puller from the 69104 Pittsburgh 4 pc. Harbor Freight set worked perfect for the factory pulley removal.
- The M12-1.5 tool in this Long-Reach Harmonic Balancer/Pulley Installer set is likely a better option for the Roush pulley install. A 1.5" thick spacer would still be necessary to make the nut accessible for a large wrench.
- I could have tried heating the Roush pulley possibly resulting a slip fit with no effort.
My Factory Pulley Removal Process
- Put the car in 6th and ripped up on the e-brake.
- Removed the OEM crank damper M12-1.5 bolt and washer.
Got real mad.. I realized that I bought the wrong installer tool.- Took reference measurements of how the OEM pulley sat while fully seated on the crank.
- Located the key slot on the crankshaft and marked the location on the OEM pulley.
- Put car in neutral; reinstalled damper bolt and washer; torqued until the crank turned and key slot was at 12:00; put car back in 6th; removed OEM damper bolt and washer again.
Tried the recommended Harmonic Balancer Puller tool.Gave up on the recommended Harmonic Balancer Puller tool.Broke the 3" 3 jaw puller.- Set 4" 3 jaw puller to its longest setting. Jaws facing inward.
- Greased then backed out the center bolt of the puller to make room a 19mm deep socket.
- Carefully installed the 3 jaws into the slots of the pulley as shown in the Zander13 video above. Turning jaws clockwise in the slots locked them in place.
- Fished the 19mm socket between the crankshaft face and puller tip. Hex side against the crank face and hand tighten the center screw tip to the square side.
- Backed that puppy off the crankshaft.
My Roush Pulley Install Process
So here's the issue..
The crankshaft threads don't catch until 3" deep. The threads bottom out at 3.75".
Luckily Roush provides a new damper bolt. I was able to make the OEM bolt into a usable long reach adapter by turning down the hex head and threading it to fit the installer tool (shown above).
I also added a 3.5" diameter by 1.5" thick delrin spacer making easy access for the 1 1/4" combo wrench and stacked 5/8" nut against the jam nut to insure that my diy long reach adapter didn't bottom out in the crankshaft (shown below).
Notes:
- Crankshaft dia. is 1.25".
- Permatex Ultra Black used to seal the key slot.
- The deepest counter bore on the Roush pulley will not be flush with the face of the crankshaft when the Roush pulley is fully seated. The gap is 0.420" (shown below). Roush confirmed that this measurement is correct for 2020's.
- The OEM damper washer gets reused. Don't attempt to tighten the damper bolt without the washer during any point of the install. Bolt would press into the pulley causing damage.
- Leave car in 6th gear and also use strap wrench during the torque process.
- The 4 step torque process resulted ~135 ft lbs.
frestylmotox01
Well-Known Member
Overall I really liked the design of the ESS kit, it was minimal permanent modification to the car.
The plumbing is very short and efficient IMO.
No it didn't need a crank pulley modification, which I was happy about, easier install. It's also a pretty light kit compared to a pd supercharger.
How's the power of your kit?
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SH!FT
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- Thread starter
- #43
It's hands down the fastest car I've ever driven. The power is smooth, linear, and predictable with traction control turned off. I'm going to need better tires.
I haven't had the chance to launch or pull 3rd gear yet. I need to find some nearby places where I can safely push the car. My town and work have windy narrow roads with heavy police presence. The strip of highway to work is under construction. I had my go to spots with the Subaru, but this is a different animal. I know there's some good driving spots out your way. I use to get the student pass for Attitash Mountain back in college.
The Roushcharger and IM are not light. I really should've had a second set of hands helping me mount them on the engine. There's a large O-ring between the SC and IM that's extremely easy to dislodge while setting the SC in place.
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SH!FT
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- #44
Modification Phase (continued)
I had to abandoned ship on CJ Pony's 2018 install video after the timing cover mod. There's a few major differences with wiring and hardware on the newer kit. The crank pulley swap is also not shown. The video is still helpful to reference while sticking to Roush's instructions.
The hoses, harnesses, and connectors provided by Roush are high quality and look OEM.
A 5/8" x 6" Magnetic Swivel Spark Plug Socket makes the plug swap easy.
Roush's instructions are awesome, but I'll cover the few wtf moments that I had going forward.
MAP wires to PCM connector mod: There are full size plastic blanks that need to be pressed out of the PCM connector in order to install the new pins. These blanks like to sneak under the housing that secures the pin. Be sure blanks actually fall out before trying to insert the pin.
Knock sensor cable extension mod: I was able to keep the cables looking factory by stealing the tape from the driver side knock sensor connectors.
I had to extend fuel pressure sensor harness cable as well. Mine was too short to reach the new location on the Roush fuel rail. I was able to reuse the tape that I initially removed to free up slack for pressure sensor cable.
How I modify an engine harness:
I had to abandoned ship on CJ Pony's 2018 install video after the timing cover mod. There's a few major differences with wiring and hardware on the newer kit. The crank pulley swap is also not shown. The video is still helpful to reference while sticking to Roush's instructions.
The hoses, harnesses, and connectors provided by Roush are high quality and look OEM.
A 5/8" x 6" Magnetic Swivel Spark Plug Socket makes the plug swap easy.
Roush's instructions are awesome, but I'll cover the few wtf moments that I had going forward.
MAP wires to PCM connector mod: There are full size plastic blanks that need to be pressed out of the PCM connector in order to install the new pins. These blanks like to sneak under the housing that secures the pin. Be sure blanks actually fall out before trying to insert the pin.
Knock sensor cable extension mod: I was able to keep the cables looking factory by stealing the tape from the driver side knock sensor connectors.
I had to extend fuel pressure sensor harness cable as well. Mine was too short to reach the new location on the Roush fuel rail. I was able to reuse the tape that I initially removed to free up slack for pressure sensor cable.
How I modify an engine harness:
- I find which direction the harness tape was wrapped at the factory. Both the knock sensor and fuel pressure sensor cables are wrapped starting from the connector ends.
- I carefully fish a fine point X-Acto blade under the exposed portion of the topmost tape winding in the area of tape that I intend to remove.
- With the blade facing away from the underlaying wires, I cut the intended tape winding plus about half of the winding overlapping it.
- That partially cut winding allows me to sneak the fully cut winding out from underneath it.
- Now I can easily work towards the connector ends neatly unwinding the tape and removing only the desired amount. See left pictures above.
- I reinstall/add tape as needed. Tape over any cut windings. I usually install patch windings in the oppose direction as the factory, so the patch can be identified later. See right pictures above.
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SH!FT
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- #45
Subassembly phase
Subassembly was simple minus the crank pulley swap. CJ Pony's install video and Roush's instructions are fairly accurate.
Most hardware is poorly labeled. It's best to have calipers handy to confirm bolt length and diameter based on the packing list. Ctrl+F was my best friend.
IC reservoir bottle and hardline assembly: Roush didn't provide the heat shrink power grip hose clamps as listed. I received 3/4" constant tension clamps instead. I think this is the better clamping option anyway.
Fuel rail assembly: The anti-rotation fuel injector clips don't lock as securely around the new M-9593-LU47 injectors. I'll be keeping an eye on them.
On to the fun part!!
Subassembly was simple minus the crank pulley swap. CJ Pony's install video and Roush's instructions are fairly accurate.
Most hardware is poorly labeled. It's best to have calipers handy to confirm bolt length and diameter based on the packing list. Ctrl+F was my best friend.
IC reservoir bottle and hardline assembly: Roush didn't provide the heat shrink power grip hose clamps as listed. I received 3/4" constant tension clamps instead. I think this is the better clamping option anyway.
Fuel rail assembly: The anti-rotation fuel injector clips don't lock as securely around the new M-9593-LU47 injectors. I'll be keeping an eye on them.
On to the fun part!!
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