Boosted and InterChillin'

[SH!FT]

Nope. Roush is the bottom for 18up forced induction.

Thanks I do appreciate the info, but I won't be doing an air to air cooling system. I'll definitely continue to research. It's going to be a fun project!

I'm pretty decent at thermodynamics and fabrication. I'll make the Roush P2 kit meet adequate temps for my application. Worst cause there's the Roush Max Cooling Upgrade Kit.

Here's my thought process:
I'm dead set on installing a kit that the Ford service techs can understand and verify. I enjoy working on cars at my convenience. I don't always find routine maintenance fun. I want to feel confident that the S550 will make it home after the tech hands me back the key.

All of my vehicles have dealer service records for each factory required maintenance even if the tech only performed the safety inspection portion. These docs have proven to be super beneficial during resale, theft, and total loss claims.

Dealer service for my WRX became a nightmare...
Subaru techs would pull aftermarket stuff apart that was not listed on that maintenance schedule, not know how to put it back together, then attempt to charge me $120/hr for "diagnostics".

• Once I had an IC pipe blow off on the ride home from service.
• At the last service I had them replace the PCV valve and diff fluid. They sent me home with a bad fuel leak. I had to stop to buy tools and fix it in a very sketchy parking lot.

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[80FoxCoupe]

Thanks I do appreciate the info, but I won't be doing an air to air cooling system. I'll definitely continue to research. It's going to be a fun project!

I'm pretty decent at thermodynamics and fabrication. I'll make the Roush P2 kit meet adequate temps for my application. Worst cause there's the Roush Max Cooling Upgrade Kit.

Here's my thought process:
I'm dead set on installing a kit that the Ford service techs can understand and verify. I enjoy working on cars at my convenience. I don't always find routine maintenance fun. I want to feel confident that the S550 will make it home after the tech hands me back the key.

All of my vehicles have dealer service records for each factory required maintenance even if the tech only performed the safety inspection portion. These docs have proven to be super beneficial during resale, theft, and total loss claims.

Dealer service for my WRX became a nightmare...
Subaru techs would pull aftermarket stuff apart that was not listed on that maintenance schedule, not know how to put it back together, then attempt to charge me $120/hr for "diagnostics".

• Once I had an IC pipe blow off on the ride home from service.
• At the last service I had them replace the PCV valve and diff fluid. They sent me home with a bad fuel leak. I had to stop to buy tools and fix it in a very sketchy parking lot.

Got it, good luck!

 

[Crowd Hunter]

Don't let your mod choices make this car an unenjoyable DD.

 

[BombZombie]

Welcome! Although I started my car journey many years ago with a 2005 GT and an 04 Cobra, prior to my current Ford, I had a 15' WRX and a 19' STI.

I ditched the STI due to it being at the point of needing a whole lot of engine and fuel modifications to push the power further. You'll find the Coyote platform extremely fun and versatile for power and goal.

Again, welcome!

 

[SH!FT]

Welcome! Although I started my car journey many years ago with a 2005 GT and an 04 Cobra, prior to my current Ford, I had a 15' WRX and a 19' STI.

I ditched the STI due to it being at the point of needing a whole lot of engine and fuel modifications to push the power further. You'll find the Coyote platform extremely fun and versatile for power and goal.

Again, welcome!

Exactly! 500+hp was affordable and seemed like a goal at the time. I found myself wanted more soon after the drivetrain took its 26% share.

Looking back at that build I should have went with a rotated turbo kit instead of a 73mm in the stock location.

 

[SH!FT]

The build begins!

I plan to document the process. Let me know if I do or say something dumb. I’m here to learn.


Electronics are here. I’m installing these before the blower to insure all is working correctly and that I’m able to flash the tune. Also might grab some naturally aspirated data for comparison.

P2000PPM15 JMS Fuel Pump Voltage Booster

I’ll do a separate post for the JMS booster install.

JMS install video: video link
JMS programming video: video link

JMS manual: https://www.jmschip.com/content/PowerMAX_V2/PM2000-PPM11_PM2020-PPS11_Install_V11_WEB.pdf



40490 SCT Performance Programmer BDX

I registered the BDX Programmer on sctflash.com. They don’t offer a preloaded tune for the Roush supercharger kit. I may try one of their NA preloaded tunes after I’m done playing around with FORScan.

How to Datalog With The SCT BDX
LiveLink Gen II



FORScan and the ELM327 OBD2 USB Adapter

NOTE: It’s recommended that aftermarket tunes are flashed back to stock before messing with the as-built values.

The FORScan software and ELM327 adaptor are pretty straightforward. I used these two videos below to enable the factory boost gauge:

How to save and load as-built files: video link

Easier video to follow for the software download and setup: video link


I first tried the 12 digit code provided in the 2nd video link above. The boost gauge appeared, but it disabled the oil pressure gauge. It’s easy to reload the factory settings as long as they’ve been saved.

Simply changing the 3rd digit of the factory code to “7” worked for me (720-06-01: xx7x-xxxx-xxxx).

My factory settings shown on the left above. The ECU was able to correct any checksum issue during the write. The 11th digit was automatically changed from “1” to “A”.

I’ve added links with more as-built value info in post #3.



VXDIAG VCX Nano J2534 Programming Device

J2534 device compatibility with the RDT software was a bit of a gray area. Roush’s recommend devices are super expensive. I got some great help here:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...compatible-with-the-free-rdt-software.169914/

I’ll continue to post updates there.

The VXDIAG VCX Nano seems to work great with RDT and Ford IDS. Worst cause I mail the ECU to Roush. I’m ready to purchase the blower.

https://www.vxdiagshop.com/info/vxdiag-diagnostic-software-download-4048.html
http://www.vxdiag.net/?lang=en
https://www.roushcleantech.com/pcm-programming-with-rdt/

 

[SH!FT]

Installed: P2000PPM15 JMS Fuel Pump Voltage Booster

Helpful links:
JMS install and programming videos: See post #21
JMS manual: https://www.jmschip.com/content/PowerMAX_V2/PM2000-PPM11_PM2020-PPS11_Install_V11_WEB.pdf

I for the most part followed American Muscle’s install video and the voltage booster arrived preprogramming for my build needs. The install took me a few hours because I’m OCD with wiring.

Tools used:

Tools will rust in my garage, so I’m stuck lugging everything up from the workshop in buckets. I intend to snap a pic of what’s in the bucket(s) after each install for this build.

I made a few minor deviations from the AM install video:

The booster unit sits nice and square when butted up against the crossbeam joint. I used #8-18 x ½” self tapping black oxide screws to mount the unit. A #2 center drill worked perfect for the pilot holes. I always snug self tappers by hand.

I was able to fit the ground wire into the cable sheath before fishing everything behind the trunk insulation.

NOTE: Don’t damage the rear seats. There’s a driver side and passenger side release tab. Seats should lift out easily.

I loosely snaked the throttle position cable behind both the rear and front driver side seat belt mount points. I held off on tucking the cable behind the plastics to avoid having a coiled mess of cable above my feet.

I ran the TP cable up behind the OBD2 connector harness, then across to the gas pedal. Only needed 2 tie wraps to secure it.

I then tucked the cable behind the plastics working front to back and pulling the cable slack back towards the trunk.

Made my ground connection on the pump driver harness mounting stud by removing the paint from the threads with a wire brush and added a ¼” flat washer. I then secured the wiring to prevent rattling and pulled any remaining cable slack through to the trunk.

I secured the excess cable to prevent rattling and pinch points and reinstalled all of the trunk plastic and insulation that I removed.

I was able to fit the 4 pin cable for the optional remote voltage knob into the cable sheath and neatly tape the connector. I secured the control cable with 2 tie wraps and 3M mounts.

I found it easiest to buckle the seat belts while reinstalling the rear seats.

My booster came preprogrammed:

• 14.5v to 18v output
• 2.4v input trigger
• 0.8v ramp

JMS confirmed that these are the optimal settings for the Roush SC making 12 psi. Surprisingly JMS also confirmed that it’s okay to run these settings with the car stock until the blower arrives. I still may turn the adjustable output voltage down to 0 until the blower is installed.

 

[SH!FT]

These price increases are insane.. I’m back within the $10k budget thanks to TRE performance! I got Phase 2 Roushcharger kit for $7,855 shipped. CJPP and AM are at ~$8,900 after tax with the latest price bump.

I’m returning the J&L 3.0 dual oil catch can kit:
The original game plan was to modify the J&L catch cans to fit with the blower. The material cost to modify the J&L’s mounting and plumbing makes the extra $100 for the plug and play UPR 5030-260-1-CSCC dual kit well worth it. Plus I think I like UPR filtration design better. The mounting hardware is a bit clunky looking through.

 

[SH!FT]

Installed: M-16826-MA Ford Performance Hood Lift Kit "Bolt-In"

FP's gas struts are awesome for the stock hood. The lower brackets are unsafe unless modified.

I'm super happy with the kit now. See my modification process: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...-for-the-fp-hood-strut-kit-m-16826-ma.174043/

 

[SH!FT]

Installed: California Pony Cars Master Cylinder/ Radiator Overflow Tank Cover Kit Black

Meh..
The ENG-156-332 master cylinder tank cover is okay, but the ENG-015-333 coolant expansion tank cover isn't even close to the color advertised. I may spray them both with Rust-Oleum Truck Bed Coating for a black powder coated look.
Armor All darkened them slightly. I used tire cleaner to remove the smudged white paint markings from the hoses.

The coolant expansion tank cover also a has a split down the back for install which is not shown in the advertised pictures. I wouldn't install or remove this on a cold day. It needs a ton of flex at the split to pass the back nipple.

 

[SH!FT]

The supercharger finally arrived this week!!!

UPS tried their best to destroy things, but it seems to be okay. I'll be pulling everything apart to inventory before starting the install.

 

[SH!FT]

Installed: Steeda Chassis Jacking Rail Ultra-Lite Low-Profile

CJ Pony's install video is good.

The install is doable with 8" ramps.

I only used 2 of the Steeda short bolts and reused the factory hardware.

There were large blobs of seam sealer on both sides. A multi tool blade removed it quick.

I wish Steeda included extra plugs. Plug part number for future reference.

 

[SH!FT]

Wow this coyote is a camel..
Spent $170 on fluids at the dealer the other day.

• $11.75 x 12 qt. for Motorcraft 5w-50.
• $14.36 x 2 gal. for premixed Motorcraft yellow.

$6.11 for the GT500 oil filler cap is worth it. Looks way better than the Roush provided 5w-50 sticker.

Also purchased 4 packs of:

• W711035-S300 Fender Liner Retainer Clips (Under cover)
• W716510-S300 Blind Rivets (Battery cover)

I'm getting very tired of finding busted and missing plastic clips on this car. It had 4k miles from a 12 month lease when I bought it. Ford service tech carelessness...

 

[DrZed]

Appreciating this thread, looking forward to seeing the progress. Also appreciate your attention to detail!

 

[gimmie11s]

So, you didn't really go back and research the FI choice lol.

The Roush will work, but there are certainly better choices.

Anyway, good luck! Nice car.

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