New whipple stage 2 , lacks power

[Brad1810r80]

I highly doubt the blades aren’t spinning, bet it has something to do with the bypass as previously mentioned.


I’d run far very far from that shop. Especially if they dyno the car and it only made 400 and thought that was acceptable.

I took it to the shop this morning and they verified its not making boost . They think the blades are not spinning. I am pretty pissed off since he said he test drove it yesterday and I am pretty sure they knew it wasnt working properly.

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[Wickedluis]

I highly doubt the blades aren’t spinning, bet it has something to do with the bypass as previously mentioned.


I’d run far very far from that shop. Especially if they dyno the car and it only made 400 and thought that was acceptable.

I am pretty sure he knew something was wrong. I looked at valve and it seems to open and close , but I am not a mechanic .

 

[Andy13186]

could be missing some critical pulley to blade connection idk.. Good luck though. Hopefully an easy fix. Once you get it running right it will be totally worth it.

 

[daSNAK3]

I would be scared of that shop touching my car at this point.. holy smokes..

 

[Andy13186]

You can take the intake off and belt off and look through the throttle body by pushing it open while spinning the pulley to see if the blades spin.

 

[m3incorp]

Yikes, that is scary. Any shop with experience installing "any" forced induction would know that it wasn't performing right and would have gotten it right before they gave it back to you.

 

[Wickedluis]

Yikes, that is scary. Any shop with experience installing "any" forced induction would know that it wasn't performing right and would have gotten it right before they gave it back to you.

That is my exact thoughts. I am most likely taking it to Ford after I contact whipple tomorrow and get warranty info

 

[cahouston]

That is my exact thoughts. I am most likely taking it to Ford after I contact whipple tomorrow and get warranty info

If you need other performance shop options in Austin, there is a thread in the local > Texas > Austin section of this forum with some suggestions. Pro Modular and R&S we're mentioned. I'm sorry to hear about your experience. I hope it's an easy fix.

 

[Cory S]

Blades spinning!!!! Must be a Yugioh blower!







(TWIN SCREW)

 

[Angrey]

I'm betting the bypass is open the entire time.

Have them check the bypass completely, the connecting rod to the swing lever, the valve itself, and ensure your not just spinning the blower with it open full time.

I highly doubt you could be running a pulley and belt and the rotors NOT be spinning. Something would have to be majorly broken and fouled up and you would be able to hear it (like the primary blower drive broken). If the belt and pulley are spinning, I'm betting the rotors are turning. They're just not making any steam because the bypass is open all the time.

 

[TEXAS HEAT]

This^^^^

The bypass is the most likely culprit or perhaps or an incorrectly routed vacuum line. If the SC pulley is spinning via the serpentine belt then the rotors are spinning with it. If not, you would here a shit load of noise.

The engine is not seeing any air load and it is using some of the engine horsepower to drive the SC, so power will be like that of an NA car with the newly installed inlet restriction (aka SC).

 

[Angrey]

There are two ports for boost/vacuum on the front of the blower (tucked up under the hat on the left side if you're facing it). One you'll use as the connection for the vacuum bypass (which is included in your kit) the other you can use as your vacuum/boost source for things like gauges, indexing your fuel pressure regulator, etc.

Check the hose connection at the bypass vacuum hose to the fitting that goes into the blower. They're notorious for blowing off (some guys add zip ties or tiny clamps, it's very tight so it takes some creativity if you want to use a worm clamp). Verify you're getting vacuum with the engine running.

Also verify the bypass valve is actually functional. You should be able to push the arm down and put your finger over the inlet and the vacuum suction will hold it down, as soon as you pull your finger off, you should hear a thump and the valve releases the connecting arm upward. That is what closes the bypass and allows you to make boost. Under vacuum, it keeps the bypass open so the blower is spinning but not making any boost. This is helpful in low rpm/load conditions AND when the throttle is closed at higher rpms (like under a shift) and prevents the blower from creating heat all the time and/or collapsing the throttle blades/intake tube when the throttle shuts under deceleration.

With the car sitting you should be able to free rev it and observe the bypass connecting arm go from the down position and pop up to the extended position closing the bypass (you can do this when you rev the motor). If you're NOT seeing that operate, start trouble shooting whether it's connected properly (the connecting arm must be clocked into the swing lever on the bypass, and its VERY VERY difficult to insert or remove it with the blower already on the car, you have to remove the main drive pulley and move the coolant fitting out of the way.)

 

[cahouston]

Does anyone have an on-car pic of the bypass valve OP could look at?

 

[Angrey]

 

[engineermike]

…I’d bet a beer it’s the mct connector connected to the wrong imrc pigtail. The calibration limits load to 0.75 but does not trigger a code if it senses an error on the mct sensor.

Has this been checked yet?

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