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New Shelby Owner needing a bit of help

WItoTX

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OP, another idea, if I was in your shoes. Get the blank plate, and have it stamped with your chassis #, but do it in a font like "Venomous". That way you got the right number, and you don't have to worry about a GT350 enthusiast saying that it's the wrong font.
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sublime1996525

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I really like the idea of the blank plate and having it be your build name or something like that. Hell, even if you do the chassis number 95% of the people, and I'm being generous, won't notice it's not the correct font lol
 

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Have this one but It doesn't help you

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effektz

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Cleaned her up yesterday and I definitely like the lightning blue more once it’s waxed. However as I cleaned her up, I found more damage that was done. When I was trying to fix up the rear splash guard I saw that this wire cut near the exhaust. I was able to get a picture of the part numbers but nothing comes up when I search for it. Couldn’t really see where it went too but after playing around with it for a while, I think it’s a wire that controls the actuator for the exhaust (normal vs sport mode). When I flip the switch, it appears only the other side exhaust actually switches. Anyone know the name of this wire that I can search?

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Found this in some other thread. Hope it helps.

Parts to order:
FordParts.com:
Left jumper Part #: FR3Z14A417H
https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/wire-assy-6539401-1?pdp=y

Right jumper Part #: FR3Z14A411J
https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/wire-assy-6582847-1?pdp=y

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Amazon:
Latching switch: https://a.co/d/a32LUJu
40ft 18awg wire : https://a.co/d/6oUgObo
Fuse holder: https://a.co/d/8yQrENC
Heat shrink: https://a.co/d/gYirUsp
Wire connectors: https://a.co/d/bFsRqdl
Wire sleeves: https://a.co/d/16t8ctd
Wire loom: https://a.co/d/aM8e5vz

Wiring diagrams:
#1 : Positive Wires - Get direct power
#2 : Switch Wires - Negative switched
#3 : Negative Wires - Go to constant ground of car.

Wiring explained:
Huge thank you to @MrBD1348 for drawing the wiring diagram. Because of him I was able to make it work!

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Step 1: Mark your Left and Right harness. Cut off the big connector on both jumper cables. Then pull wires out of the harness.
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Step 2: Find and label each wire. Starting from right to left (red clip facing up), the wires are 1. 2. 3.
  • 1: Negative wire
  • 2: Switch wire
  • 3: Positive wire
Step 3: After labeling each wire, put the wires back through the harness (good luck, it’s a pain in the butt)

Step 4: To give yourself more wire to work with, cut off about 3 feet of wire and connect (with the wire connectors, and heat shrink over it) to each of the ends of the connector wires. Add more RED wire to wire #3, and more black wire to wire #1, and another black wire to wire #2.
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(MAKE SURE TO LABEL WHICH WIRE IS WHICH IF USING THE SAME COLOR WIRE FOR MULTIPLE WIRES)

Step 5: Once you have extra wires to work with, connect both #3 RED wires together, and #1 BLACK wires together, and #2 BLACK wires together.

Step 6: Put down back seats and measure enough wire from the back, to the center console, or how ever much you need with how you’ll route your wires. Add a foot or 2 for extra play room just in case (you can cut and adjust it later) and cut your measured wires. You’ll need a total of 3 wires running to the center console. I ran my wires under the back seats, and shoved it under the carpet of center console, leading it into the center console. Make sure to shove your wires on the side of the carpet so when you reinstall the center console, it doesn’t pinch the wiring.

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You will need 1 RED wire at center console (that will be power) and 2 other wires to connect to the switch. One going from the back of the car, to the switch, and another wire going from the switch, back to the car.
  • Because the wiring you got from Amazon is attached together in a red/black pair, you don’t have to separate them. Just pull apart about 3inches on each end.
** I put all my wires into the loom and sleeves to make it look cleaner before installing the wiring on the car

Step 7: (trunk area) Take your #1 Negative wire and ground it somewhere to the metal. (If you remove your black plastic trunk panel, there should be a ground screw next to the trunk latch)

Step 8: Take the long RED wire and connect it to your #3 RED positive wires. Now take your other long wires (red/black still attached together) and attach the BLACK wire to your #2 switch wires. Then take the RED wire and tap into your ground wire.

To recap: You should have a total of 3 wires attached and running to your center console.
RED positive wire connected to #3 RED wires,
BLACK wire attached to your #2 Switch wires,
RED wire that’s spliced into ground wire that’s coming from your #1 wires. Where your spare tire is, there should be a rubber grommet plug on the right side. You can take it out and make a hole in it. Feed your connectors through that hole and plug them into the actuators.
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From under the car: They split left and right
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Now onto the center console:

Step 9: Pop off your center console and disconnect key detection connector. (If you don’t know how to, find it on YouTube)

Step 10: Pop off the USB panel and disconnect USB and Power outlet

Step 11: Take power outlet out of its socket, but leave the housing in. (Black plastic top ring)

Step 12: Take your switch and unplug it from its connector. Carefully pull out both yellow wires and the black and red wires. Keep both blue wires. (If you want the LED light to work, don’t pull out the red wire)

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Switch wiring diagram if you need it #1
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Step 13: Push the switch into the power outlet housing. (When you take out the housing, you have to first clip the housing back in - black circle - then slide your switch into it. (If you need to take the switch back out, you have to tap it out of the socket. Be careful so you don’t break anything.)
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Step 14: Plug the switches connector in from the back.

Step 15: Take your 2 connected black/red wires and connect the BLACK wire to the bottom left blue wire (#3 on diagram.) Take the RED wire and connect it to the bottom right blue wire (#4 on diagram)
** if you want your LED light to work, connect the red wire with your bottom right blue wiring

Step 16: Take your Fuse holder and cut it the wires at the half way point.

Step 17: Connect one end of the fuse wire to your #3 red positive wire. On the other end of the fuse wire, strip back some wire.

Step 18: Take your power outlet port (the one still attached to the cars wiring harness) that you disconnected earlier and de-pin the positive wire (should be the darker wire)

Step 19: Once the wire has been de-pinned, take your fuse wire and insert it through one of the holes on the pin. (Make sure it’s not coming out of the side hole, that’s the hole that gets caught onto the latch of the housing)

Step 20: Reinsert the pin back into its place with the red wire. It should be a tight fit and you should hear or feel a click, letting you know it’s attached.
** Test to see if everything works. Press the button and listen if the actuators are turning. If not, check your ground or adjust your power connection.

If everything works, continue on.

Step 21: Wrap the whole thing in electrical tape.

Step 22: Put everything back in its place. Attach the USB plate back in its spot.
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Step 23: start putting everything back. REMEMBER TO ATTACH THE KEY DETECTION CABLE BEFORE INSTALLING BACK THE TOP PIECE OF CENTER CONSOLE! Otherwise car won’t start.

That’s pretty much it. The button in pushed out position is OPEN VALVES, the button pushed in is CLOSED VALVES. I tried to reverse it to open when pushed in but couldn’t figure it out.

This won’t drain your battery because that charging port is on accessory mode. It turns off after 10min or so along with the rest of the electronics.

Honestly you can add your switch to any spot on the car. I just chose this spot because it looked clean. If you choose another spot, the wiring is still the same. You can still tap into the same power source and keep the power plug installed.

So this is a way to have your Active Exhaust on a switch. With this method you won’t be able to control your A/E through your dash. Only with the switch.

This is what I sounds like. It’s a warm start, valves opened. (Videos in attachments)
BBK LTH, BBK Catted Mid Pipe, 2018 GT350 exhaust w/x-pipe!








Last edited: Nov 10, 2022
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Cobra Jet
JoinedFeb 12, 2015Threads658Messages13,132Reaction score17,086LocationNJVehicle(s)2018 EB Prem. w/PP and 94 Mustang Cobra
Nov 10, 2022
Good tech thread with details and pics to follow!

2018 EB Fastback Premium w/PP
1994 Cobra Coupe SVT # 13 of 5,009

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Robs Rides
JoinedNov 10, 2022Threads0Messages1Reaction score2LocationCAFirst NameRobertVehicle(s)2013 Ford F-150 Raptor 2018 Ford Mustang GT PP1
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Thats an awesome write up.


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2016S550

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I read the story about the plate. If it were
my car and it was important I would compile a digital file of all the documents that you have. I would write a letter explaining the circumstances and then contact Ford Customer Care.

It’s understandable that Ford has concerns about reproducing a plate but it’s not like they are making a new VIN Plate like the one where the glass was cut. You have plenty of documentation supporting your claim. I hate it when someone is either too arrogant to listen or too lazy to help someone. Yours is a very unique situation and they should be willing to help.
 

Tomster

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I read the story about the plate. If it were
my car and it was important I would compile a digital file of all the documents that you have. I would write a letter explaining the circumstances and then contact Ford Customer Care.

It’s understandable that Ford has concerns about reproducing a plate but it’s not like they are making a new VIN Plate like the one where the glass was cut. You have plenty of documentation supporting your claim. I hate it when someone is either too arrogant to listen or too lazy to help someone. Yours is a very unique situation and they should be willing to help.
THEY
DONT
CARE
 

sukhoi_584th

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\

Exactly.....:champagne:
I'm not following the logic. Sure you have VIN and build plate to put on a GT, but you've sacrificed a GT350 to do so. How is that more profitable than flipping both cars?
 

K4fxd

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I'm not following the logic. Sure you have VIN and build plate to put on a GT, but you've sacrificed a GT350 to do so. How is that more profitable than flipping both cars?
It would make sense to put the real Shelby in a container and send it overseas but it is so much easier to send the ID's and find a GT at the destination and put the badges on it.
 

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stanglife

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Big fan of what you're doing. Check this out - this Etsy seller seems to not be selling at the moment but if you contact them, perhaps he will. He created a plaque the fit in my floor mats. He was able to customize it with my exact number. I'm not usually one to sticker anything up but in this case it looked a lot better than the advertising for weather tech. ;). I think these could work well for you - maybe not 100% authentic looking but pretty good!

https://www.etsy.com/shop/DesignerDealerDecals

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/shelby-floor-mats-upon-delivery.169621/page-2

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scd603

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Good progress! Yes, these late model cars require strong batteries for everything to work properly, or they can get glitchy.
Agree on your comment about modern cars -- and the 350. Mine sat for a year. I thought I could jump it and then drive a few miles and it would be good. No way, every warning light, gauge and outside lights went nuts. It ran rough.

Now, I just bought my wife a new Honda CRV. The battery is the size of a motorcycle battery. Pretty crazy.
 
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effektz

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So I’m making some progress on getting a replacement VIN sticker for the door. Called Ford and they basically said the same as the chassis plate that they don’t do that. After some searching I found that the company ECS VIN is an authorized place to replace the door jam stickers but normally they only do it for body shops and you have to provide a picture of the old sticker. Well since I am not a body shop and I don’t have the original sticker, I thought I was screwed. I figured it couldn’t hurt to email them about the history of this car and see if there is something I can do. Come to find out they will make a replacement for me but I needed to provide proof of ownership(title), a Ford OASIS report and a detailed Vehicle Specification sheet for the car from Ford. Went to the dealer today and they gave me both another OASIS report and the spec sheet. So looks like I’m on my way to at least getting one official tag on the car with the VIN on it
 
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effektz

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Some more positive news. This week I received the door VIN sticker and tire sticker as well. Also I will be receiving a replacement windshield VIN plate from Ford. I can’t exactly say how they ended up agreeing to make a new one but it involved several insurance companies, two police agencies, Virginia DOT and Texas DOT.

The previous owner had some wheel center caps that had the cobra logo and the word Shelby in the middle that were in really bad condition. So I bought some new ones on Amazon that are just black south with Cobra logo. I replaced the center caps and replaced the lug nuts with black gorilla ones. When I did that, I noticed the rear tires were shredded (pic below). Since I have to replace, if I don’t plan to track the car, are the Michelin Super Sports the best tire option?

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