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NightmareMoon

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Turns out the clunk is still there after I put the stock mounts on. I guess I’m still frustrated because they were fine prior to me installing the J&M mounts. Not sure what my next step is. As I’m out rear shocks now.
the point where I was confident it was the shock, was with the stock mount in there, swaybar detached, wheel off, and I could make it clunk by lifting the hub by hand. Being right next to it I could basically tell it was the shock and not a swaybar endlink or something else farther away. I wasn’t certain, but I was certain enough to buy a replacement shock.

Koni should replace it under warranty tho, or I heard they would so give them a call.
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cyclonetron

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Definitely try to get them replaced under warranty.

The FP and Bilstein monotubes are greataand available individually, but I've been curious about how these would do on stock like spring rates.
https://www.americanmuscle.com/reviews/sr-performance-replacement-rear-shock-1518-w-o-magneride
Yeah, I’d love a full set of FP or Bilsteins but can’t fork the money right now, plus the Konis should be replaced under warranty. I’m hesitant though to instal the J&M mounts again. Especially with all the drilling I had to do. Even so, the fit still isn’t good and it’s really hard to mount them compared to the stock shock mounts.
 

Roadway 5.0

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Yeah, I’d love a full set of FP or Bilsteins but can’t fork the money right now, plus the Konis should be replaced under warranty. I’m hesitant though to instal the J&M mounts again. Especially with all the drilling I had to do. Even so, the fit still isn’t good and it’s really hard to mount them compared to the stock shock mounts.
When the time is right, get Bilstein B6 shocks and use OEM mounts. Trust me on this one.

For the time being, replace your shocks under warranty and just use the OEM mounts. I find aftermarket mounts more of a bother than a benefit these days, especially if you drive during winters.
 

cyclonetron

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When the time is right, get Bilstein B6 shocks and use OEM mounts. Trust me on this one.

For the time being, replace your shocks under warranty and just use the OEM mounts. I find aftermarket mounts more of a bother than a benefit these days, especially if you drive during winters.
I really would like to use these J&M mounts since I have them but I’m not thrilled about the holes I had to drill. It’s such a chore to line up the holes and get the bolts in. Not to mention I had to drill out both sets of holes, potentially compromising the structural integrity of the mount.
 

spaz mk will

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I find aftermarket mounts more of a bother than a benefit these days, especially if you drive during winters.
On this topic, does anyone have a recommendation for this mount? I’m not sure if the Steeda covers work, otherwise I will just check for a rubber cap or something at the store that fits.
 

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spaz mk will

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On this topic, does anyone have a recommendation for this mount? I’m not sure if the Steeda covers work, otherwise I will just check for a rubber cap or something at the store that fits.
To answer my own question, the Steeda covers do not attach firmly with this mount. They would surely fall off.
 

thornclaw

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the j and m mount has an exposed bearing. i live in the midwest with pretty harsh winters. will this survive from a corrosion standpoint?
 

TheMegalodon

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the j and m mount has an exposed bearing. i live in the midwest with pretty harsh winters. will this survive from a corrosion standpoint?
Best get some covers. I found some rubber covers from a parts store and wrapped them around the top rim with wire.
 

cyclonetron

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Its been a while since I posted my issues but I was able to get them worked out directly with J&M. Their customer service is top notch and I was able to resolve the issue. I am definitely going to order other parts from them in the future. The rear is more planted and feels much more composed over bumps and turns in the road.
 

hot rod

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I have installed the shock mounts on the lower bolt position for more shock travel. The only problem was the dust boot on the driver side where the fuel line is. The Dust boot is too big. I had to cut off the head and close it with tape for now. It would be awesome if the dust boots be a bit smaller so that they fit on the driver side with the lower bolt position.

IMG_3484.jpg
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