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New Garage Flooring Options for my R

DrumReaper

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So, the RS3 vs 350 thread is interesting as I will be moving to a new house soon and will need to address my garage floor.

I have Nohr-S on my current floor which is absolutely amazing stuff, yet I have noticed that when I jack up my R sometimes the Nohr-R pops under the wheels of the jack. I could simply place a 1x4 piece of wood under the wheels to spread the load and stop the pinching of the urethane but I don’t want to keep doing that.

Tile flooring looks awesome, and both Nohr and tile will cost about the same, but given spillage of liquids, would need to seal the gout on tile, and the tile itself if it is nonglazed.

Any thoughts?
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ThreeFiveO

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Grout will not stand up long term to spills no matter how well it's sealed. If your floor has any cracks or expansion joints then they'll telegraph through the tile eventually. If there is the slightest void under the tile and you happen to jack above the void then you'll pop the tile. I would go with the granite look epoxy coatings that most use. It's about $5.50 per sf in ATL.
 
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Kurac

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My research led me to the Garage Journal forum as well. Since I live in the snow belt, salt is a factor. Leaving the floor au natural is NOT an option unless you like pitted floors that look like shit after years of road salt.

The product I’m going with has a 10yr warranty against pitting and pealing and is non porous. My research led me to Polyurea/ Polyaspartic coatings. Check it out. It’s not cheap but I built my home to my specs and plan on retiring in it and want a garage that will be durable and look good.
 

EF300

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I wish I could do a garage floor. The homeowner before me put down some damn epoxy floor but didn't prep the floor right so of course it's peeling all over the freakin place. I think it's going to be a ton of work to remove the epoxy.
 

Kurac

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I wish I could do a garage floor. The homeowner before me put down some damn epoxy floor but didn't prep the floor right so of course it's peeling all over the freakin place. I think it's going to be a ton of work to remove the epoxy.
You’ll need to diamond cut the floor with an industrial grinder, which is what should have been done in the first place. Also, not all epoxies are made the same.
 
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DrumReaper

DrumReaper

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My research led me to the Garage Journal forum as well. Since I live in the snow belt, salt is a factor. Leaving the floor au natural is NOT an option unless you like pitted floors that look like shit after years of road salt.

The product I’m going with has a 10yr warranty against pitting and pealing and is non porous. My research led me to Polyurea/ Polyaspartic coatings. Check it out. It’s not cheap but I built my home to my specs and plan on retiring in it and want a garage that will be durable and look good.
This!

I went with Nohr-S in our current home cause I thought we’d be here for a while but job circumstances speak otherwise. The Nohr-S is absolutely awesome. I didn’t use a dye and just prepped the cement and covered it with the prep coat and then two top coats. The only problem is that jacks will cause it to pop under load.

I’m thinking this will likely be the way it goes in the new home as well.
 
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Tomster

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Someone else on this forum just did thier garage floor recently and added a mini split air conditioner. It looked great from the photos.

I have a mini split in my house for one of my rooms and those kick ass and are cheap to run.
 

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Kurac

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Some owners of racedecks complain of a clicking noise when walking over it. Also, if you work on your car, wash, and detail your cars in your garage, this isn’t the best choice. If you never wash your cars inside your garage or track in dirt, salt, or sand, then the racedecks system may be a better option than what it is.
 

RNDT38

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I have Racedeck and really enjoy it.
(I also have a second "work" garage to work on the cars.)
It is easy to clean. It looks great.
But--
My garage doors open to the West and the tile will buckle along the joints if the doors are left open for just a couple of minutes in the afternoon sun. They expand tremendously.
The "male" side of the joints will then put a plastic "fold" discoloration on the top of the tile above those protrusions.
You must also guard against dropped objects (utility knife for example) and other pointed objects such as jack stands.

It does have the "Wow" factor. No question about that.

Check the photo to the left.

Bob
 
 




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