Need tire advice from the tire gods.

Briebee72

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So I am new to mustangs after being away for 20 years. I am also not an expert on tires I dont even fully understand the numbering. So I have to rely on good folks like you all here.

SOOO. I switched ut my OEM wheels for my buddies PP1 wheels. But tires were just exspensive and I was gonna store them. well you know how car stuff goes, they are one the car LOL. Well to get them on the car but not have to drop another 1 plusk on tires he had some he included so we could get them mounted.

So on back there are the 275/40R19 101W Firestone Firehawk Indy 500 tires
and on the front are 245/35R19 Toyo Proxies S4 plus
we went out and did some "spirited driving" and when we returned and checked Gauges and numbers at some point (not sure as I take corners hard :) weeee. I hit a 1.79 lateral G with this set up. Its a good set up never broke traction not once.

My issue.... look at that gap (pics below) on the front.... it looks like i have a spare tire on the front LOL. I like the back it looks great.

So Tire gods. What can I replace the front with that will still give that level of performance and have more meat to fill the tire well so it looks better? IM not looking for super expensive tires and I will even buy used if less than 1k and super reasonable price. I just need to know what to look for. Thanks all.
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GW65

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Just go with the standard PP1 front size of 255/40R19. The reason you have such a big gap is that your fronts are both too narrow and too low profile...
 
OP
Briebee72

Briebee72

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Just go with the standard PP1 front size of 255/40R19. The reason you have such a big gap is that your fronts are both too narrow and too low profile...
Thank you Sir, yeah that was gonna be my go too, the standard size, but I know some guys who are all into tires can have some great input with alternate sizes that work better or perform better or look better. So was just seeing what would be suggested. :) but if nothing works out I'll go with standard.
 

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Andy13186

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1.79g was probably from doing a donut or something years ago lol
 

3star2nr

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Your issue isnt with the tires you need lowering springs. You can get the X springs ford makes for our cars these are the standard springs on the performance pack cars and they call them the "street" handling springs. They are designed to work with your factory shocks.

They will lower the ride height by 1 in and still give you about a 0.25" clearance over parking lot humps and speed bumps. Anything lower than that you will need to replace the shocks as well with shocks with a shorter stroke. Or you Will overheat the oil, bottom out the shocks and blow out seals in less than a year...

You do not want to run more than the factory wheel diameter. Do not go to 20" rims or run any tire lower than the factory 40 profile tire.

Changing to a 45 profile or 50 profile tire will make the car less responsive in corners and throw off your Speedo.

So yeah dont change tires lower the car
 

2017GBGTPP

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You do not want to run more than the factory wheel diameter. Do not go to 20" rims or run any tire lower than the factory 40 profile tire.

Changing to a 45 profile or 50 profile tire will make the car less responsive in corners and throw off your Speedo.

So yeah dont change tires lower the car
You seem to have missed that he's running a 35 profile tire on the front and a 40 on the rear...
 

CrashOverride

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You said you don't understand the numbering. So a brief primer:

P xxx/yy *R zz ###&
P255/40WR19

"P" = Passenger Tire
"xxx" = maximum width in mm (This is not the width of the contact patch, and instead typically is the width from each sidewall)
"yy" = percentage of width to height. So in the example I gave, the sizewall height is 40% of the 255mm. This is why a "30" series is sometimes called a rubber-band tire because there is almost no sidewall, and light truck tires are sometimes "75" series and are quite tall in height.
"*" is a letter to designate the maximum speed, the tire is rated at. "Z" is common and means "greater than 149mph" but that is not as scientific as other letters such as the "W" I used. You can look up the tables, I don't have them memorized.
"R" is either radial or rim, I can't remember. It is probably radial though.
"zz" is simply the rim size in inches (Hey who said we had to be consistent...mm/%/inches)
### is the load rating. Not super important for cars, but in some ways related to the stiffness of the sidewall. If you have a truck/SUV and you load it down with weight, then this is important. Again, you can look up the numbers.
& is part of the load rating I think. Not positive, I've never bothered to look it up

Then there are the ATQG ratings of traction, temp and treadwear. They are lousy, but a very general rating of how good the traction is, how well the tire responds to temperature changes, and how long the tire will last. Treadwear is not absolute, and is (at best) useful only to compare two similar tires. Traction is from AA (Best) to (C) worst. Temp is from A to C. I'm probably wrong on the letters, I've never seen anything better than AA and worse than C. I would be shocked if any tire that fits that wheel would be anything worse than A A.

So these guys above that are telling you that it looks too small because it's a 35 series instead of a 40 series - they are in effect saying the sidewall height is too small. And they are correct, that is the way it comes from the factory (40 series in front).

As far as the 1.79g? The number is wrong, or you hit a curb whilst doing a donut. There is simply no way a street tire is going to pull more than 1.1g - and I would be surprised if the Mustang could pull more than 1.05g because of the weight, center of gravity, and suspension design. If you had a set of slicks, that were properly inflated, on a track-prepped surface, you might be able to hit that, but nobody coats a skidpad with the track-prep that they do in the burnout box at the dragstrip. www.tirerack.com is your friend. They test tires and show the results. Their prices are decent as well.
 

3star2nr

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I pulled 1.01gs bone stock at a track day. With the factory Pirelli P Zero tires. So with better rubber i could see higher G numbers... 1.79 is pretty damn impressive for a street tire.

I cooked a full set of tires on that track day. Those P zeros lasted 8000 miles... All 4 had to be replaced
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3star2nr

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You seem to have missed that he's running a 35 profile tire on the front and a 40 on the rear...
Ouch.... I ran 35 tires before they suck ass...

I think I had 295 30 R19s on the front and 35s on the rear on my old mustang the car absolutely rode like shit... Nitto NT55 And every bump or train line had me sweating bullets...

40 is really the limit for what id consider streetable
 

Andy13186

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You can see stangmodes accellerometer reads insane numbers and he doesnt even try to turn, its from donuts. 1.79g on a legit unbanked turn is not even close to being possible with OP's setup.

I suggest OP reset his accellerometer and try again, I bet it wont be much above 1.02g at best

 

Bikeman315

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If your issue is the difference in gap between front and rear than the tire God’s are right. You need to put 40’s up front. If you think that the car overall is too high then you need to change the tires and go with lowering springs.

As far as your 1.79g lateral, no sorry, your gauge is wrong.

Top 100 "Grip Kings" - fastest cars around skidpad 2019
Skidpad is a circular track with fixed radius where cars are tested for maximum sustained lateral acceleration.

High lateral acceleration (measured in meters per second squared or Gs - 1G = 9.8 m/s²) is indicative of high cornering capability and good handling characteristics in general.
Rank Make and model Lateral acceleration
1. Porsche 911 GT3 RS (991 facelift) 1.24 g (12 m/s²)
2. Chevrolet Corvette Z06 (C7) 1.19 g (12 m/s²)
3. Chevrolet Camaro ZL1 1LE Package (Mk VI) 1.18 g (12 m/s²)
4. Chevrolet Corvette ZR1 1.18 g (12 m/s²)
5. Chevrolet Corvette Grand Sport (C7) 1.18 g (12 m/s²)
6. Chevrolet Corvette Z06 Convertible (C7) 1.17 g (11 m/s²)
7. Porsche 911 GT2 RS (991) 1.17 g (11 m/s²)
8. Alfa Romeo Giulia QV 1.17 g (11 m/s²)
9. Ferrari LaFerrari 1.16 g (11 m/s²)
10. Dodge Viper ACR (Mk V) 1.15 g (11 m/s²)
 

HeelToeHero

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Your issue isnt with the tires you need lowering springs. You can get the X springs ford makes for our cars these are the standard springs on the performance pack cars and they call them the "street" handling springs. They are designed to work with your factory shocks.

They will lower the ride height by 1 in and still give you about a 0.25" clearance over parking lot humps and speed bumps. Anything lower than that you will need to replace the shocks as well with shocks with a shorter stroke. Or you Will overheat the oil, bottom out the shocks and blow out seals in less than a year...

You do not want to run more than the factory wheel diameter. Do not go to 20" rims or run any tire lower than the factory 40 profile tire.

Changing to a 45 profile or 50 profile tire will make the car less responsive in corners and throw off your Speedo.

So yeah dont change tires lower the car
Sorry, X springs are not performance pack springs. The X springs are included in the street handling pack which includes performance pack (PP) dampers, PP sway bars, and PP rear toe links, but the springs are unique to Ford Performance.

As already noted, the issue isn't the springs, it's the rubber bands for tires on the front (35 series + narrow width tire).

 

3star2nr

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You can see stangmodes accellerometer reads insane numbers and he doesnt even try to turn, its from donuts. 1.79g on a legit unbanked turn is not even close to being possible with OP's setup.

I suggest OP reset his accellerometer and try again, I bet it wont be much above 1.02g at best

1.02gs is still fucking amazing...
 

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