Need guidance on prepping car for the dragstrip-2022 Mach 1

[eemcclain]

I took my ‘22 Mach 1 Handling Pack 6spd to the track for the first time last night. Didn’t go well. I’m well experienced in drag racing Mustangs (including stick) but this car with the IRS and street tires is a mess.

First pass, car spins pretty bad off the line (Pilot Sport 4S’s). Eventually got it to grab. Grabbed 2nd gear and the rear of the car skirted right and started shaking. Aborted the run. Second pass was even worse. Not sure if the track prep went to hell, but could never get traction even at lower RPMs.

If I wanted to prep this car for occasional drag racing, how much of the car’s natural handling characteristics would I lose? Or can I add a few components that will help for the drag strip, but not hurt the handling characteristics?

I plan to buy slicks and skinnies, but want to know what I’m getting into before going too far.

Eric

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[NGOT8R]

It’s way tougher than many people realize to run decent numbers in a manual tranny Mustang with IRS. Long story short, I’ve been right where you are. In fact, I never was able to run the number that my car should be capable of (mid 10s) given the power it makes with nitrous (639 rwhp/602 rwtq). Getting these heavy cars to hook and not bog is the biggest challenge.

I can answer your question about the car’s natural handling characteristics. I haven’t noticed any handling issues with my 2919 Bullitt which has nearly every modification you can think of on it. I even removed the front sway bar too and it still drives like normal. Having said that, I don’t take curves aggressively and it handles perfectly fine.

Drag wheels and tires are a good idea, but even then it’s still going to be a tough go. I think in my case with the MT82-D4, the gearing is too long, whereas your 3160 should be slightly better.

It’s going to take a whole lot of practice to pull it off and a lot of power to get these heavy cars moving.

Here’s my list of mods that are on my car and it still handles like a dream.

Steeda

- Subframe braces
- Diff. bushing kit with through bolt kit (black bushings)
- Subframe bushing supports
- Hardcore diff. bracket
- Subframe alignment kit
- Adj. rear camber arms
- RLCA Spherical bearings
- Adj. toe links
- Billet vertical links (delrin bushings)
- 1 piece driveshaft
- Driveshaft safety loop
- Tri-ax Race shifter
- Adj. motor mounts (set to drag race configuration)
- Idler and tensioner pulleys

Other suspension/drivetrain components

- KellTrac Ultra Spec Viking Inverted double adjustable rear shocks
- Forgestar D5 17X10 beadlock drag wheels with 305/45/17 MT ET Street Radials and 18X5 front runner with MT radials
- Ram Pro Street Twin Disc Cerametalic clutch with lightened aluminum flywheel
- Built MT82-D4 transmission with Cryo and WPC treated hard parts, carbon fiber lined synchros and a Setrab external fluid pump for cooling purposes
- Ford Performance half shafts

Engine/bolt on mods

- Ultimate Headers catted long tube headers
- Steeda X-pipe
- Steeda axle back exhaust
- PMAS CAI (no tune required version)

Power adder and tuning

- Nitrous Outlet GT350 plate nitrous system (jetted for 150 hp and E85 fuel) and ProMax progressive controller
- Lund Racing tunes for 93 octane, Flex, E85 and Nitrous
- JMS Boost-a-Pump

Miscellaneous components

- N2MB WOT Box 2 step controller with No Lift Shifting

 

[NGOT8R]

Just curious, what was your sixty, ET and MPH?

What rear gear do you have in your car?

More power is going to be your friend and mine. If you stay NA, a 4.56 gear would help out tremendously. I was going to go that route, but I’ll be adding a large single turbo soon, so the 3.73 is probably gonna be a good match for me.

 

[robvas]

Stop the hop kit

drag radials

pedal it out of the hole

axles after you hook a few times

 

[Jasonb543]

Stickshift??

Bias plys, cold track = big burnout, hot track = quick burnout

Drop em down to 14psi, hold it off the limiter and let it eat!

Got them on my 24 (auto) the new et street r bias is noice!

 

[John S]

Haven't been to a 1/4 mile track in many years. I went to Mach 1 Track Attack and practiced no-lift shifting but burned in muscle memory is difficult to overcome. What's the best way to launch these heavy beasts and does Drag Mode offer much help ("loose" rebound setting for front shocks?) with weight transfer to the rear tires?

 

[NGOT8R]

Haven't been to a 1/4 mile track in many years. I went to Mach 1 Track Attack and practiced no-lift shifting but burned in muscle memory is difficult to overcome. What's the best way to launch these heavy beasts and does Drag Mode offer much help ("loose" rebound setting for front shocks?) with weight transfer to the rear tires?

Seriously speaking, more gear, more power, sticky tires and lots of practice is what it’s going to take to get it done with a manual tranny. If you add boost, then maybe hold off on a rear gear change.

I don’t use Drag Mode at all, in fact, I actually turn all of the Nannie’s off at the track. I haven’t been happy at all with my NA or nitrous times (best NA runs have been 12.30s with mph ranging between 113-116 and best nitrous run has been 11.65 @ 121.95). If you bog or spin off the line you’re done, as there’s no just way to recover from either.

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