Need Alignment Feedback BMR SP080

[Pulser8]

Just had an alignment done at a local dealer and something feels way off. Not sure why they were not able to get the front in spec as I thought that was achievable without camber plates on the SP080. Also, the alignment machine scratched my new set of Velgens and the steering wheel is considerably off center with the wheels straight.

Anything concerning jump out on the alignment specs to you guys? Even the offset on some of the wheels looks different now.

Left front
Camber -2.2
Caster 6.8
Toe -0.02

Right front
Camber -1.5
Caster 7
Toe -0.04

Left Rear
Camber -2.1
Toe 0.14

Right Rear
Camber -2.0
Toe 0.12

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[BMR Tech]

I don't see "too much" cause for concern there, but I am a little surprised you got to -2.2 up front with a 1.2" drop.

I typically like, and see, about -1.5 to -1.7ishhhh. -1.9 in the upper range.

Now the front toe, is what is causing the feeling. You need to take it back and have them make that toe IN and not OUT...at those same amounts...with the total TOE IN not to exceed .10

 

[BmacIL]

Just had an alignment done at a local dealer and something feels way off. Not sure why they were not able to get the front in spec as I thought that was achievable without camber plates on the SP080. Also, the alignment machine scratched my new set of Velgens and the steering wheel is considerably off center with the wheels straight.

Anything concerning jump out on the alignment specs to you guys? Even the offset on some of the wheels looks different now.

Left front
Camber -2.2
Caster 6.8
Toe -0.02

Right front
Camber -1.5
Caster 7
Toe -0.04

Left Rear
Camber -2.1
Toe 0.14

Right Rear
Camber -2.0
Toe 0.12

The front needs fixing. They're supposed to lock the steering fixed when setting toe. If the wheel is off, they need to adjust. Target 0.00 on both sides. The camber needs to be closer too, and should be able to get there with tolerances in all of the joints. Otherwise camber bolts are needed, or slot the upper strut hole.

Rear looks good, although I'd back the camber off a bit while you're in there (to around -1.5, but even left and right).

 

[SVT-DADDY]

Negative front toe could be making the car feel a little less stable going straight.

It's not much but it really should be zero.

Camber is pretty far off from side to side, but not sure if that would be noticeable.

Did they report thrust angle and steer ahead?

 

[Pulser8]

Negative front toe could be making the car feel a little less stable going straight.

It's not much but it really should be zero.

Camber is pretty far off from side to side, but not sure if that would be noticeable.

Did they report thrust angle and steer ahead?

Steer ahead is 0.01 and thrust angle is 0.01.

 

[Pulser8]

Thanks for the responses. One last question...the driver side rear wheel sticks out further than the passenger side. Photos below. Any idea what is causing this? I want to be able to have everything corrected at the same time. I did not notice this prior to the alignment. Don't hate on the flip flops and socks!

 

[DarkestHour]

what the hell is on your feet!

 

[CTH621]

Thanks for the responses. One last question...the driver side rear wheel sticks out further than the passenger side. Photos below. Any idea what is causing this? I want to be able to have everything corrected at the same time. I did not notice this prior to the alignment. Don't hate on the flip flops and socks!

Subframe is misaligned with the body from the factory. Mine sticks out more on the passenger rear. Basically, loosen 4 blue subframe bolts and use a prybar to visually align the subframe to the body of the car. Then retighten the bolts. Then go on the alignment rack again.

 

[BmacIL]

Subframe is misaligned with the body from the factory. Mine sticks out more on the passenger rear. Basically, loosen 4 blue subframe bolts and use a prybar to visually align the subframe to the body of the car. Then retighten the bolts. Then go on the alignment rack again.

This is why it's happening.

Get the Steeda alignment pins and/or BMR CB005 cradle lockout kit (which has significant performance benefits by removing most of the subframe movement) to make sure the subframe is aligned. Just shifting it over without anything to center it can make it off square, and result in odd behavior.

 

[armykyle1 [HACKED ACCOUNT]

Thanks for the responses. One last question...the driver side rear wheel sticks out further than the passenger side. Photos below. Any idea what is causing this? I want to be able to have everything corrected at the same time. I did not notice this prior to the alignment. Don't hate on the flip flops and socks!

This is "normal"

This is why it's happening.

Get the Steeda alignment pins and/or BMR CB005 cradle lockout kit (which has significant performance benefits by removing most of the subframe movement) to make sure the subframe is aligned. Just shifting it over without anything to center it can make it off square, and result in odd behavior.

Even with both of those installed, my RR wheel is closer to the fender than the other.

 

[HISSMAN]

When a ninja wears flip flops.

 

[wildcatgoal]

I like 1/16 to 1/8 total toe IN. I think the factory calls for 1/5 (0.2). Toe out I'd personally reserve for a track car. Personally I'd like to see you get camber bolts (if you're not tracking your car) to take out some front camber. Make them both like 1.2-ish up front, IMHO. That's what I get to when I go back to a "street alignment" in November (and -1 camber in the rear). I don't need camber for days to drive around town.

As for your rear IRS being off center, my car did the same thing when I lowered it. Steeda alignment pins solved that entirely. I added the IRS bushing supports to shore that soft rubber thing up and eventually a zillion other things but the alignment pins and the IRS bushing supports is where it's at for a budget mod without altering the factory IRS forward bracing. Get the Steeda IRS braces for the trifecta if you want to go that extra step toward improving handing. But if it's a street car and you don't want to risking adding really any NVH, Steeda alignment pins and IRS bushing supports. Bada bing, bada boom.

 

[MtnBiker]

Took mine to a local speed shop and pretty obvious that their alignment system was not calibrated. Took it to another shop and all is good. Had really agressive toe out in front and steering wheel about an inch off center. Really skiddish feeling at speed. Your results sound similar.

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