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Need Advice: 18' Whipple 10A (Driving, Tires, etc...)

eveslow78

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Ok, so I am new to the RWD "muscle car" world and would appreciate some help.

I'm actually an Import/Euro guy who now owns 2 Fords LOL and only 2 Fords (2012 F250 deleted/tuned & 2018 GT 10A PP Whipple Stage 2).

I finally got the GT tuned properly from Whipple and shipped to Florida where I stay in the winter.

I am curious how people drive these boosted Mustangs daily/track/roll racing? When do you use Sport mode? Do you always drive with at least advanced track on? When roll racing, do you manually select the best gear, then immediately put in D for best shift points? Etc....

Then.......I finally took the traction controls off fully for the first time today. Just by holding the button for ~5 seconds, not disabling the connector by the air box like I have read about earlier. 70+ degree sunny day and I'm in D and rolling ~45mph, downshifts a couple times as I am rolling in to full throttle VS a full stab. Stock Mich 4S's break loose like butter between 60-70 mph and car starts throttle steering towards the grass. I correct and all is good. Buddy of mine was on the phone with me at the time and asked WTF was that!? LOL

This was an EYE OPENER for me as most of my cars have been AWD or under 500wph RWD.

What a FUCKIN BEAST! Unreal you can have this for ~$40,XXX.

I had to leave my truck in IL this winter because of shoulder surgery (can't work) so I am only driving the Mustang for the next few months. I can be cool with never fully disabling the traction until back in Illinois but need to have some fun hahaha. Therefor, I really can be running slicks when I get caught in some rain.

Should I get some 305+ R comps for the meantime? Eventually some Mick T's will be in order.

Any tips or info is much appreciated!

Happy Holidays and New Year!!!!!!!

-Dave
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Andy13186

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Im pretty sure you cant have a have a whipple stage 2 with pp1 and the auto for 40k unless its not new.... Maybe a used 20k mile one or a base cloth car with manual and no modes and whipple stage 1...

Also, leave stability control on so you dont meme.

But yea get some wide ass rims and good 315's. You could get pp1 replicas in 10 inch wide on american muscle, but I hear they are heavy.
 
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eveslow78

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Im pretty sure you cant have a have a whipple stage 2 with pp1 and the auto for 40k unless its not new.... Maybe a used 20k mile one or a base cloth car with manual and no modes and whipple stage 1...

Also, leave stability control on so you dont meme.

But yea get some wide ass rims and good 315's. You could get pp1 replicas in 10 inch wide on american muscle, but I hear they are heavy.
My car is a base 301a with only PP1 and 10auto. It had 300 miles on it and i picked it up for $30k. Got the stage 2 for just under $8k. Couple small mods like springs, spacers, stop the hop kit and H pipe as well.

Im thinking that the Forgestars might be lighter than the PP1 reps....
 

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eveslow78

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1crazymach

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eveslow78

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I have OEM PP2 with a 325 Michelin PS4 in the rear with a stage 2 Whipple. She grips and goes. Car is a monster
That's awesome! Looks great too!

With my 275 4S's, I put down a couple of scary stripes at highway speeds. Don't need to do that again anytime soon LOL

Your 325's, 30 or 35 aspect ratio?
 

Rjames18

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Don't listen to the wider the tire the stickier it is. You don't need the biggest and widest tire out there.

Get a set of 17'' Forgestars with 305/45/17 MT R's. You'll hardly ever have traction problems with that set up.
Even the 275 of the MT R's will get you more than enough traction. If you're only worried about straight line stuff.
But then again I've taken my R's through some winding back roads and they did just fine.
 

1crazymach

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That's awesome! Looks great too!

With my 275 4S's, I put down a couple of scary stripes at highway speeds. Don't need to do that again anytime soon LOL

Your 325's, 30 or 35 aspect ratio?
285/35/19 fronts 325/30/19 in rear
 
 




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