My thoughts for new modders after 3 years of ownership

[TheDonSalami]

Not sure to be honest, I ordered the DVCC from CJ Pony, and then ordered at a later date the 100 psi CV from Tune Plus. Which was a easy swap.

i believe the check valves you can add are the ones that cover 0-100 psi but maybe @UPRSteve can confirm i got the right one.

@Marvinmadman yeah lol thaths why i pulled the trigger

Sponsored

 

[TorqueMan]

Glad I could help, and just by chance I emptied it today, after 2000 miles. Maybe 3 or 4 ounces, check out the picture, and I’m glad that this fluid does not go into the intake. I’ve let it sit in the past to see if it would separate over a few days, and never does, looks and smells like pure oil, with a hint of gasoline smell.

Try saving a sample until your next oil change, and compare it with what comes out of your sump. Used oil holds combustion byproducts in suspension, so it's not surprising it smells like gasoline.

 

[Shawn51fla]

A very detailed write up that took alot of time and thought to help guide new owners, and we end up right back in 2015 about the lockness carbon monster. What a waste of a post lol

While were at it, has anyone managed to find an exhaust that busts out a v8 note yet? Asking for a friend in 2014.

Now that was funny
MAde my day as im 4 or 5 pages into a read on carb build up or not. I was just thinking i have to have something better to do, i mean pornhub is still online right.

 

[MattSin97]

Note- Originally posted this in a thread debating FBO vs going big turbo right out of the gate, but I thought you all might appreciate this as a new thread. Feel free to post results/thoughts below if you have gone a different route or if I missed something.

Note 2 for 2018 Eco's
-Not extremely familiar with the 2018 eco yet, but it seems you all are getting pretty shafted here. Based on my research the UPR DVCC will not fit the 2018s and Cobb is still 2-3 months away from making you guys an AP because the 2018 ECU is very different from the previous gen. There has been back and forth discussions on 2015-2017 intercooler fitment in the 2018, but by the looks of it some/most 2015-2017 IC's will fit 2018s (possibly bolt-on and possibly with a little modification). For you 2018 guys that are looking to not void factory warranty a drop in filter for the stock air box appears as though it will not void the warranty. In the past Ford Performance has released a warranty-friendly "Power Pack" that includes a FP tune and Intake, but rumors have it they may not be releasing the Power Pack for the 2018 eco. If they do end up releasing it, it will most likely be released very late because FP does a lot of basic testing before even beginning to work on power upgrades. My advice for 2018 owners would be to get the drop in filter and NGK plugs, research intercooler installs on the 2018, and sit tight hoping Cobb will release the Accessport for the 2018 soon.

Under the hood mods- In the order in which I would do them, but many of them can interchange spots. (Everything is just my personal opinion, I could be wrong on some cases and you overall have the freedom to do whatever you want!)

Format is: mod - (new price, what I've seen it go for on M6G)

1. UPR DVCC - ($250, 150)
-Carbon build-up + mods + bad plug gaping = ecoboom. Carbon build-up is pretty bad on this engine. (Interesting how ford changed to a dual (port & direct) fuel injection system in 2018 GT). Don't go cheap and get the Mishimoto or any other brand as the quality is extremely inferior to the UPR. For extra protection you also have the option of picking up the UPR Clean-Side CC ($230, $150) in addition to the DVCC.

2. ETS/Levels FMIC - ($550, $450)
-Bad heat soaking on OEM at stoplights, charge pipe temps range 100-150, hot air makes the car pull very very weak. The normal size of the Levels and ETS intercoolers will provide more than adequate levels of cooling at pretty much any HP figure but Levels does offer an even larger IC, the Levels Race IC ($659). It seems as though a lot of new modders to the ecoboost platform tend to go with options such as the Mishimoto IC ($520, $300) or the Cp-e IC ($560, $300), both of which have smaller, similar (if not the exact same) core dimensions (21.06" x 5.75" x 5.28" for the Mishi) that don't really compare to the size of the Levels and ETS IC's ( 20" x 14" x 3.5"). However, these smaller models do benefit in that you do not have to remove the active grille shutter assembly (the IC mounts in the same location and space as the OEM intercooler) unlike the ETS and Levels intercoolers.

3. Cobb Accessport V3 - ($500, $315)
-Necessary for future mods, honestly it would be best to not ever run an OTS map but if you're horrible at waiting on money to become available like me you can run the COBB OTS stage 1 when you get the AP. Definitely do not run any of the other OTS maps (Stage 2, 3). Gauges being monitored can vary but I prefer monitoring Cylinder 1-4 Timing (each individually) Corrections, Boost Pressure, and AFR (actual). The AP will also add support for variable RPM launch control, Flat Foot Shifting, Burnout Mode (front wheel lock), On the fly map switching, and Adjustable Traction Control.

4. NGK 6510 1 step colder plugs ($45)
-OEM plugs known to have inconsistent gaping, many people believe this should be the first mod done and I definitely also agree with that. Make sure you get these gaped correctly (varies based on fuel type) and you inspect and change them often. (I've seen people say anywhere from 8,000 to 15,000 to over 30,000 miles. I personally go with 10,000 just because although it may be overkill, its not that costly and I try to do the most preventative maintenance I can.) These can come pre-gapped from Tune +, or you can gap them yourself, but just be very careful with handling and installing b/c the iridium tip is very delicate. Some owners suggest checking the correctness of the gaps with every oil change. During this time you can also examine the appearance of your plugs to possibly diagnose a wide variety of problems (http://www.onallcylinders.com/2012/12/20/reading-101-how-to-read-your-spark-plugs/). The main cause of the eco-boom craze is abnormal combustion from improperly gaped spark plugs. Although the plugs may be fine up to and beyond 30k miles, a simple $45 purchase 2 or 3 times a year is worth potentially saving $3,000+ in my opinion.

5. Purple Drank/Tune + Lifetime Tuning Package - ($300 for PD, $350 for Adam's)
-I like and have PDtuning, they have lots of experience w/ turbos and alternative fuel, they respond quickly and are nice. Adam from Tune+ knows a lot about the car but he can be unpleasant and in my opinion has too many tuning customers to do more than just the minimum communication w/ customers. The tunes are different, I can't speak personally for Adam's but PD's has a sluggish low band (<2500) that you have to accept to get their ridiculous top end power. Both tunes will transform the drivability of the car away from the quick jumpy boost threshold that dies at 5k to a more top-end focused, drawn out power curve.

6. Airraid Big Intake Tube w/ drop in filter for stock airbox - ($250, $150)
-Swapping out the stock box for a aftermarket box or cone style filter has shown to actually cause power losses. Adam recommends a drop in filter and the option of installing the airraid tube. Many people also wrap the intake tube in heat shielding tape. Retune recommended

7. 100 PSI upgraded checkvalve for UPR CC - ($55, sometimes included w/ DVCC on m6g)
-Kinda going out of order now but you really wanna just get this done ASAP & definitely as soon as you get the protune. When you get the DVCC off of M6G try to score one with the upgraded check valve and possibly even clean side catch can already included. Probably should have included this with #5. Retune not required

8. Turbosmart/Tune + upgraded WGA - ($140, $100)
-Many benefits, all relating to boost & boost consistency. Can also increase top end boost slightly in some cases by 1-3psi. Requires retune.

9. Turbo Back exhaust- I like the Borla Catless DP - ($500, $250) + MBRP Race catback - ($600)
-Obviously mostly personal opinion & a lot of different choices, MBRP being one of the cheapest, but better sounding. Pretty much all of them sound pretty awful. If you're on a quest to make big power I'd recommend having 3" exhaust all the way back from the turbo (may require custom fab work if your cat-back has a step-up/step-down from 3" to 2.25" like the MBRP) and a wide-band 02 sensor. The work to create the 3" fabricated piece is pretty simple and just involves cutting off the stepdowns on the catback and/or downpipe and installing either a welded or clamped piece that allows 3" connections on both sides. Some users report paying anywhere from $30 to $75 at a muffler shop for this service. This modification to delete the 2.25" step down does significantly decrease restriction, but is really only necessary when you're making over 500 hp.

10. If you have an auto for some reason you probably wanna get some transmission tuning - ($150)

At this point is where you can go a variety of different directions, common directions most people go include:

1. Charge piping + BOV
- If you are satisfied being around the same power you are at now, go ahead and grab some charge pipes and a BOV. I recommend MAPerformance ($480, $325) or ETS charge pipes ($380, IDK) with the Boomba Racing or C&L bypass valve adapter ($60). This will allow your OEM BOV to still be controlled by the ECU (allowing for PD or Tune + to make adjustments if necessary), isn't as annoying as the vacuum controlled BOV's, and still gets rid of the poor-designed re-circulation back to the intake. If you do go with a vacuum controlled, don't do the dumb T-tap vacuum line or whatever it says in the installation guide, pick yourself up a turbosmart boost reference adapter ($40). It reads pressure directly from the intake manifold and also allows for an optional boost gauge or whatever accessory you want to connect. Whatever you do, do not buy the C-Pe MAP Tap, its garbage (said by Ryan @PD after I told him I bought one).

2. Charge piping + BOV + E30 (Sadly I don't have access to ethanol)
-Same as above but if you have access to ethanol and want some more optional power E30 tuning is included in both Tune + and PDtunings lifetime packages. You just have to go through the extra work of always being mindful of you current mix of 93/ethanol in your tank and the actual percentage of ethanol at the pump in order to calculate the numbers correctly and always have around the right mix.

3. The full send option, aka the bolt on turbo kit
-If you're a power nut and happen to have around $3,000+ you could spend at any minute of the day on a new block without feeling financially unintelligent this option is for you. Less dumb smaller options include the Vargas stage 1 and stage 2 turbos ($1000-$1600), but most people go with a VTT stage 2+ ($1800), CP-e + Borg Warner EFR twin-scroll kit ($3,500-$5,000), or a MAPerformance + Precision single-scroll kit ($4,000). The kits will usually have everything necessary including hot and cold side charge pipes, necessary manifolds, lines, a custom downpipe, wastegate, and a BOV (You can save yourself some money by not buying the wastegate, downpipe, charge pipes, and BOV separately if you know you're going to be buying a big turbo kit down the road). You're probably going to want to upgrade the clamps that connect the charge piping to constant tension clamps ($70) if you feel the clamps included/clamps you already have are questionable. Even if you still have the stock turbo the charge pipe connections may blow off under high boost (as in my case) and you may want to upgrade to constant tension clamps. Only god knows how long the OEM block will make it with a big turbo, so good luck if you go this route. If the condition of your block may already be questionable and you think you would not be able to receive any sort of money for it or the internals than I guess this route would actually make some sense.

4. Built motor (2 common options)

Option 1: Sending in your 2.3L to be built
-Lots of good options from different shops, I personally like what speed perf6rmanc3 has to offer with their 500hp stage 1 ($3,784) and 700hp stage 2 ($5,140) packages for the 2.3 block. Although most shops offer around a 12-15k mile warranty, keep in mind that the 2.3L block is an open-deck design and there is not much structural rigidity surrounding the cylinders, especially on the backside of the block.

Option 2: Built 2.0L block w/ 2.3 internals (Newly Developing)
-Much better option, many companies/people like Adam, Speed Performance, and Josh Parker are working on different ways to build a 2.0L/2.3L "hybrid" closed deck block that incorporates a 2.3L head and assembly. The closed deck design of the 2.0L ecoboost block provides lots of rigidity and has continually held higher and higher horsepower numbers since customers began building their FoST's. If you want to make confident, reliable power this is definitely the option. I'f you somehow haven't blown your 2.3L by now some shops may give you a core charge for the block, but probably will only give you a core charge for the head, since that's really the only part they can reuse ($450 for a 2.3L head from tune +). Current price for a stage 1 500whp-rated built 2.0L from SP63 is $4,500 (new OEM block included). It will be interesting to see if this price will remain around the same amount for the 2.0/2.3 "hybrid" configurations that SP63 is now testing. 2.0/2.3 hybrids already ready for purchase can be found on Adam's website (for a premium) and range from the Type A- 500hp rated OEM-replacement block ($6,600) to the Type C- 800hp rated, 8,000 rpm redline, $11,000 monster. It will be interesting to see what built 2.0/2.3 hybrids become available as initial testing for many companies finishes up in the next couple of months. I personally think the open deck 2.3L will be left behind and the real only option will be to switch to the closed deck hybrid.

Additional Costs with Built Motor

Obviously depending on how much HP you're seeking you're going to run into some fueling problems and might have to purchase bigger injectors (DW 1700cc injectors are $635 for a set of 4), lines, and a High-Pressure Fuel Pump (The livernois one in the record setting ecoboost is $1600.) along with some dyno tuning to get the set up right. You're probably also going to be purchasing a big turbo kit down the road and will also need to upgrade to a 5-bar MAP sensor ($160) if your boost peaks over 29 psi. If you are not confident in your mechanical skills you may also have to pay mechanics for bigger installations, which can get very expensive. If you have somehow found the budget to make it as far as a built block w/ big turbo and upgraded fuel delivery you probably have also done a decent amount of spending in the cars suspension, driveshaft, clutch, differential, brakes, wheels+tires, and possibly transmission.

The Verdit (My Opinion)

If you do the installs yourself and are patient enough to get everything off of forums or facebook groups you can achieve pro tuned, full bolt-on with or without e30 for about $2,400-$2,600. Although it varies drastically from car to car, you can most likely expect somewhere around 360-400 whp and 400+ wtq on e30. This is also kind of considered the max level of somewhat safe power output for the stock block. Theoretically for around another $6,000 you can have a brand new closed deck 2.0 block w/ a VTT stage 2 twin scroll turbo that can easily daily as a reliable, 500 hp beast. The best part is the block itself is easily rated up to around 700hp (and can be custom sleeved to support even more), so down the road if 500hp is not enough for some reason you can upgrade your current internals or swap out the VTT for a bigger turbo.

Comparing Stock Costs

2015 Ecoboost Mustang (50k miles)- $17,268 KBB value.
2015 Mustang GT (50k miles) - $24,062 KBB value.
Average of $6,794 gap


Builds I Mentioned Compared

1. FBO Eco Build - roughly $20,000 (+/- 1.5k) - 360-400 whp /400+ wtq "max OEM block performance"
2. FBO + VTT stage 2 - roughly $21,500 (+/- 1.5k) - 420 whp /430 wtq "full send build"
3. FBO + 2.0L + VTT stage 2 - roughly $27,500 (+/- 2k) - 500 hp/500 wtq "Daily driving beast"

Stock 2015 GT - roughly $24,062 - 380 whp/350 wtq (measured by MAPerformance)
Stock 2015 Eco - roughly $17,268 - 275 whp/290 wtq (measured by Stage 3 Motorsports)

Why not run OTS Accessport Stage 2 or 3?

 

[TeeLew]

Why not run OTS Accessport Stage 2 or 3?

If you're trying to optimize the package this much, then you need someone to tune to your particular engine. There is too much variability in fuel, engine & sensors to safely run these maps. There are a lot of ugly stories from when it's been done.

 

[MattSin97]

If you're trying to optimize the package this much, then you need someone to tune to your particular engine. There is too much variability in fuel, engine & sensors to safely run these maps. There are a lot of ugly stories from when it's been done.

So OTS Stage 1 is about as far as you should take it before a Protune?

 

[MattSin97]

If you're trying to optimize the package this much, then you need someone to tune to your particular engine. There is too much variability in fuel, engine & sensors to safely run these maps. There are a lot of ugly stories from when it's been done.

Just a tad nervous because I just installed Stage 2 last week. Not sure if I should revert back to Stage 1.

 

[TeeLew]

Just a tad nervous because I just installed Stage 2 last week. Not sure if I should revert back to Stage 1.

Personally, I didn't run any of the COBB tunes. If I were, I would keep it to the stage 1. It could just be my paranoia, but I am much more confident with custom mapping.

Sponsored