My hands are DIRTY: 15' EB w/ 2.0 Fusion shortblock

Discussion in 'Members Mustang Journals / Projects' started by BoostedMTBer, Apr 25, 2019.

  1. BoostedMTBer

    BoostedMTBer Well-Known Member

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    #1 BoostedMTBer, Apr 25, 2019
    Last edited: Aug 20, 2019
    Hey y'all,

    welcome to my progress journal. It's been over a month since I spun a rod bearing. I can install bolt on's with the best of the DIY guys, but diving into the engine was way out of my comfort zone (here's my frantic post trying to diagnosis the issue). I've made great strides since and am hoping to have the car up and running in the next 2 weeks. Have most of the parts in and my garage looks like a mix of the best Christmas ever & an episode of hoarders.

    Here was my set-up prior to spinning the rod bearing on cylinder 1
    • Rev9 Intercooler (25 X 12 X 3.5)
    • MAP charge pipes w/ HKS BOV (old electric bov connect is just disconnected but no issue with CEL)
    • K&N drop in filter
    • Mishimoto catch can,
    • NGK LTR7IX-11 (6510) 1-step colder Spark Plugs - Pre-gapped to TUNE+ Spec × 1
    • CM-5250 / BU5Z-9F972-B Brand New OEM Motorcraft Fuel Injection Pressure Sensor ( 202107275077 )
    • Fuel Vapor PCV hose upgrade- (FR3Z-9G297-H)
    • PCV delete
    • muffler delete
    • catless DP
    • Cobb w/ Protune from Purple Drank
    • MEGAN LOWERING SPRINGS w/ added Camber bolt kit
    • BMR IRS Lockout Kit​
    • Ford Performance Aluminum Strut Tower Brace​
    • Ford Firewall Brace w/ firewall support bracket
    • 1’’ Thick 5x4.5 Wheel Spacers​
    • Powder coated Black 18’’ Premium Wheels​
    • Carbon Fiber Anderson Composite GT350R Spoiler​
    • Custom made & painted Rocker Winglets​
    • + countless DIY custom painted or wrapped parts​
    Now that we have that out of the way, lets jump in to the current build!
    WIP: I'll try to be extremely through in case anyone finds themselves in my situation

    Why the 2.0 Block?
    The 2.3 block has 2 major weak points that make the fusion or focus 2.0 block a better option.
    The 2.3 is an open deck which is structurally weak, where the 2.0 block has a semi-enclosed deck. The other issue is the external area between cylinders 2 and 3 is thin and prone to cracking once you start trying to push more power.
    This is why all the pro tuners limit the stock block to 400hp, but IMO it's still a ticking time bomb. I have heard good things about sending the 2.3 block off to https://cylindersupportsystem.com/ for their CSS system and added bracing, but at the tune of $635 (doubt that includes shipping).
    Where as you can grab a brand new 2.0 Fusion block from Tasca for $800 and it's nearly identical to the 2.3 block, but without the inherent weaknesses. You can build it up with all the internals 2.3 internals and all the other parts mount up perfectly.
    people have been pushing 700 hp + with these blocks, so they seem to be able to handle anything you can throw at it.
    Although, even with a built proof block, the cylinder heads apparently flow like junk which leads to the next major issue with this platform- head lift. Speed Performance has a great youtube vid on this
    I've heard that even with advanced porting they still are underwhelming.This is why SP created some super strong head studs that I picked up for my build.



    upload_2019-5-6_10-52-29-png.pngupload_2019-5-6_10-53-31-png.pngupload_2019-5-6_11-44-53-png.png
    Performance PARTS
    • 2.0 Block: FB5Z-6010-A
    • Main Studs: ARP Main Stud Kit 2.3 (151-5407)
    • Rods: Manley H Beam Connecting Rod Set w/ Pins ARP 2000 Bolts
    • Head STUDS: ARP 12pt. Head Stud Kit 2.0, 2.3 (151-4301)
    • Head gasket: Supertech Head Gaskets - 1.3mm | Ford EcoBoost 2.3L
    • Pistons: Manley Extreme Duty Piston Set
    • Rod Bearings: King Bearings CR4604XP0.25
    • Main Bearings: King MB5442XP0.25
    • Balance shaft delete: Ford EcoBoost 2.3 / 2.0 / MZR Balance Shaft Delete Plug
    • Head STUDS: SPEED PERF6RMANC3 CA 625+ Head Studs
    • PCV Upgrade: RADIUM PCV BAFFLE PLATE
    • Valve spring: kit MAP Valve Spring Kit w/ Titanium Retainers |
    • CRANKCASE BREATHER: upr BILLET ONE-WAY
    • Intake: Airaid Modular Intake Tube (15-17 EcoBoost)
    • HPS Silicone Radiator Coolant & Heater Hose - Blue (15-19 EcoBoost)
    • DVCC Upr dvcc W/ AIRAID
    • valve seals: Supertech VSI-D5.5E 5.5mm Valve Stem Seal
    • ARP Crank Bolt ARP 251-2501 Bolt Kit
    • CVF High Flow Catted DP
    OEM PART- TASCA
    • CJ5Z-6K254-A Tensioner
    • W701183-S300 Dowel - Bush
    • W718192-S437 Plug - Threaded
    • W528007-S900 Plug
    • W711993-S300 Housing Pin
    • W716841-S900 Starter Pin
    • W528207-S437 Adapter Plug
    • W706434-S437 Timing Cover Spacer
    • W701548-S446 Plug - Engine
    • W716038-S437 Stud
    • W716735-S437 Bolt M6 x 14
    • W716658-S450 Oil Return Tube Screw
    • W500033-S437 Bolt - Flanged Hex
    • 1S7Z-6B752-AA Separator Gasket
    • W704397-S437 Bolt
    • 3M4Z-8255-A Thermostat Gasket
    • 9L8Z-6G004-E Cylinder Head Temp Sensor
    • W500414-S442 Bolt
    • EJ7Z-9J323-B Tube Assembly
    • W715323-S300 Oil Inlet Tube Washer
    • W704474-S437 Turbocharger Stud
    • 7T4Z-8527-A Water Pipe O-Ring
    • CJ5Z-6K255-A Tensioner Arm
    • 1L5Z-6379-AA Flywheel Bolt
    • 1S7Z-7N171-AB Cover
    • W715618-S437 Nut
    • W713095-S403 Bracket Nut
    • VC-3DIL-B ORANGE PRE-DILUTED ANTIFREEZE/COOLANT
    • EJ7Z-00812-A Oil Inlet Tube Bolt
    • 1S7Z-6K301-BA Rear Main Seal Retainer
    • CM5Z-6652-B Ford Explorer Engine Oil Pump Drive Gear
    • FR3Z-8255-A Adapter Gasket
    • F2GZ-6600-A Ford Focus Engine Oil Pump
    • BE8Z-9278-A Pressure Switch
    • CM5Z-6A895-A Chain
    • FB5Z-6010-A Cylinder Block
    • EJ7Z-6N652-A Oil Return Tube Gasket
    • BB5Z-6584-A Valve Cover Gasket
    • FT4Z-6N652-E Oil Return Tube Gasket
    • FT4Z-6N652-D Water Pipe Gasket
    • CM5Z-6700-C Front Seal
    • CJ5Z-6268-A Timing Chain
    • BB5Z-6C683-A Filter
    • EJ7Z-9448-B Manifold Gasket
    • 1S7Z-12A699-BB Knock Sensor
    • FR3Z-6622-B Inlet Tube
    • 3F1Z-12A648-A Coolant Temp Sensor
    • 3M4Z-6625-AA Inlet Tube Gasket
    • EJ7Z-6840-A Lincoln Mkc Engine Oil Filter Adapter Gasket
    • 1S7Z-8507-AE Gasket
    • CJ5Z-9439-A Ford Escape Engine Intake Manifold Gasket
    • 1S7Z-6378-AA Crankshaft Pulley Washer
    • W717325-S439 Engine Cradle Lower Bolt
    • W707246-S440 Engine Cradle Retainer Nut
    • W714878-S450 Upper Shaft Bolt
    • W707137-S441 Upper Shaft Nut
    • EJ7Z-9F593-C Injector
    OEM PART- FORD
    • Bracket - Engine Lifting---Part #: DS7Z17K004A
    • Seal--Part #: AA5Z9E583A
    • Cover - Opening--Part #: FR3Z9D440B
    • Insulator--Part #: FR3Z9K540C



    TOOLS USED

    • 4 engine jack stands
    • 2 ton Engine crane
    • 1 ton engine stand
    • 2.0/2.3 Timing Kit
    • TBC
    eb2.jpg eb3.jpg eb4.PNG tools.jpg 20190327_222852.jpg 20190327_192521.jpg 20190327_192525.jpg 20190327_192529.jpg 20190327_192537.jpg 20190327_222516.jpg 20190327_222846.jpg 20190327_222852.jpg 20190327_192550.jpg 20190327_222508.jpg
     
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    BoostedMTBer

    BoostedMTBer Well-Known Member

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    #2 BoostedMTBer, Apr 25, 2019
    Last edited: May 3, 2019
    Performance Parts Review/ Comparisons

    1) CVF Catted Down pipe

    I was on the 'a pipe is a pipe' train for the longest time. I went the cheap route with the ebay Down pipe prior to this rebuild and have to eat my words.
    Craftsmanship is remarkable and could easily be listed $100-200 more than they are asking. It's clear that CVF is here to make a statement for the EB platform and they want to be your go-to brand for the mod community.

    Install notes:
    • Hit all the bolts with some PB or liquid wrench the night before
    • remove the engine mount counterweight- it gets in your way
    • Install the o2 sensors onto the pipe prior to mounting the pipe up
    • get yourself a stubby socket wrench for the 2 exhaust manifold bolts
    dp1.jpg dp2.jpg

    2) Supertech Head Gasket

    The engineer in me was interested to figure out what separates the Supertech HG from the OEM HG
    on inspection the coolant ports for both gaskets line up fairly identically. However, the Ford unit is three layers, with each layer providing different points of contact to create the seal. on the other hand, the Supertech HG is four layers, with each layer the same as the next. This should help strengthen the seal between the head and block along with the super strong SP63 head studs
    340451-793f5324091a873ba5d059fafbe9610e.jpg
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    3) Radium PCV Baffle Plate
    I had previously gutted the OEM PCV valve and added a check valve as suggested because it is ineffective and restrictive. This is a well know fix for the dreaded 'white smoke' issue of running an upgraded down pipe. At the time, dropping $100 for a shinny metal plate appeared to be a waist, but now that I'm able to compare the two side by side, I wish I would have made the switch at the time. If you look at the pictures below, you will notice the Radium unit has an additional oil baffle up top vs the Ford unit. this helps separate out the oil from being sucked up out of the engine block with the crankcase fumes. Obviously, any additional oil blow by should be filtered out by the catch can prior to being sucked back into intake, but at the expense of system efficiency. thanks to Mr. Newton and half way paying attention in fluid dynamics, we know volume flow rate through the PCV system decreases as density increase. Meaning we want to keep as much oil out of the PCV system as possible. To top it off, the Radium plate has a high flow nozzle w/ built in check valve compared to the restrictive Ford unit. Over all this plate should help increase the rate at which we are able to expel crankcase pressure from the block, while also reducing the amount of oil sludge circulating through the PCV system

    20190501_121954.jpg 20190501_122013.jpg 20190501_122120.jpg 340449-09c0596e3f88f5afbfffa04ddd265b44.jpg 340450-639764ee29c10bc119d983d0df8186e7.jpg

    TBC
    More to come. Got my Crank back from the machine shop and the ended up having to grind both main and rod journals to fix the damage done from the slipped rod bearing. It was a PITA to find a shop who would touch my crank, because most machine shops don't have data from new cars. Luckily I was able to get the shop the main and rod journal dimensions from King's website. I will be using -.010'' undersized King XP rod and main bearings to account for the material removed during grinding and balancing. Just waiting on the shop to finish up with my cylinder head now. Had them perform a full clean and valvejob, toss in some fresh Supertech valve seals, and rebuild using MAP's Valve Spring Kit w/ Titanium Retainers i found on clearance :rockon:
    340469-2e227092c22e097cedf54d39758f47b8.jpg
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  3. Blue Moon

    Blue Moon Well-Known Member

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    So, you hated that balance shaft so much you deleted it twice?

    Just yanking your chain, bro. Looks like a good build.
     
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    BoostedMTBer

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    You'd have to be insane to no delete it:crackup:
     
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    BoostedMTBer

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    Just waiting on Tasca to get my last minute parts i didn't know I needed order together and shipped out like
    giphy.gif


    Never knew blocks don't come fully finished w/o the head alignment bushings, coolant & freeze plugs.
    Guess i'll just spend another weekend staring at all my parts in the garage :facepalm:
     
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    #6 BoostedMTBer, May 1, 2019
    Last edited: May 6, 2019
    Here is the order list with part numbers, since finding all the little plugs was a major PITA

    Part Number

    CJ5Z6K254A ---- Tensioner
    W701183S300 ---- Dowel - Bush
    W718192S437 ---- Plug - Threaded
    W528007S900 ---- Plug
    W711993S300 ---- Housing Pin
    W716841S900 ---- Starter Pin
    W528207S437 ---- Adapter Plug
    W706434S437 ---- Timing Cover Spacer
    W701548S446 ---- Plug - Engine
    W716038S437 ---- Stud
    W716735S437 ---- Bolt M6 x 14
    W716658S450 ---- Oil Return Tube Screw
    W500033S437 ---- Bolt - Flanged Hex
    1S7Z6B752AA ---- Separator Gasket
    W704397S437 ---- Bolt
    3M4Z8255A ---- Thermostat Gasket
    9L8Z6G004E ---- Cylinder Head Temp Sensor
    W500414S442 ---- Bolt
    EJ7Z9J323B ---- Tube Assembly
    W715323S300 ---- Oil Inlet Tube Washer
    W704474S437 ---- Turbocharger Stud
    7T4Z8527A ---- Water Pipe O-Ring
    CJ5Z6K255A ---- Tensioner Arm
    1L5Z6379AA ---- Flywheel Bolt
    1S7Z7N171AB ---- Cover
    W715618S437 ---- Nut
    W713095S403 ---- Bracket Nut
    VC3DILB ---- ORANGE PRE-DILUTED ANTIFREEZE/COOLANT

    Here's a visual guide I made up to help match to the correct part #'s.
    upload_2019-5-6_12-26-1.png
     
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    Love it!

    -Josh
     
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    Nice work.. keep us posted.. what's ur Hp target on this setup?! What about cost!? How much so far?
     
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    Curious. So why the 2.0 block?
     
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    Awesome thread. I have been looking for information for building an engine with the 2.0 block.
     
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  11. badhaircutted

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    This is very cool. Keep up the good work!
     
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    The 2.3 block has 2 major issues that can lead to a cracked block (ECOBOOM) IMO.
    The 2.3 is an open deck which is structurally weak, where the 2.0 block has a semi-enclosed deck. The other issue is the external area between cylinders 2 and 3 is thin and prone to cracking once you start trying to push more power.
    This is why all the pro tuners limit the stock block to 400hp, but IMO it's still a ticking time bomb. I have heard good things about sending the 2.3 block off to https://cylindersupportsystem.com/ for their CSS system and added bracing, but at the tune of $635 (doubt that includes shipping).
    Where as you can grab a brand new 2.0 Fusion block from Tasca for $800 and it's nearly identical to the 2.3 block, but without the inherent weaknesses. You can build it up with all the internals 2.3 internals and all the other parts mount up perfectly.
    people have been pushing 700 hp + with these blocks, so they seem to be able to handle anything you can throw at it.
    Although, even with a built proof block, the cylinder heads apparently flow like junk which leads to the next major issue with this platform- head lift. Speed Performance has a great youtube vid on this
    I've heard that even with advanced porting they still are underwhelming.This is why SP created some super strong head studs that I picked up for my build.



    upload_2019-5-6_10-52-29.pngupload_2019-5-6_10-53-31.pngupload_2019-5-6_11-44-53.png upload_2019-5-6_11-32-11.png
     
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    #13 BoostedMTBer, May 6, 2019
    Last edited: May 6, 2019
    No problem. I've had to piece together so much info to figure out the most cost effective build and then where to find the OEM parts needed that i figured I'd try to help out the community.

    As for my goal, my main priority is getting my daily back on the road with essentially a brand new, rock solid engine. I figured I'd put the investment in now, so I can have a fun & reliable DD/toy that I'm not clenching my cheeks every time I want to have some fun. I've got a wedding right around the corner & a house purchase in the near future, so the hardest part has been drawing the line between WANT and NEED :crazy:

    Long term, my goal is creating a reliable 550whp torque monster street car once I can afford a big turbo and port injection for e85.
    I plan on running some road courses for fun and giving autocross a try down the road. Just cant afford a car racing hobby ATM, so I'll stick with bicycle racing for now and wait until my midlife crisis :cwl:
    IMO it's important to keep things in perspective with these lil' engines. So many guys get caught up with keeping up with the big boys on the strip, that if 500-600hp won't scratch your POWWA itch, then you'd be better off trading the car in and boosting a coyote, because the additional supporting mods needed are not worth it. Plus there doesn't seem to be any way to get around the restrictive flow of the head, and you'll find yourself back in square 1 sooner than later.

    I believe so far I'm about 4k deep. Which isn't too bad considering that's about the cost of a built short block and I'm doing SO much more. That # also includes all the tools and equipment I've had to purchase, like the Engine lift & stand, a high torque impact gun, parts cleaner, ect.
    I plan on selling off a lot of the equipment once i'm done to recoup some $$$. Also, since my 2.3 block was still in great shape, I'm having the machine shop clean, resurface, & hone it, so I can sell it off as well
     
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    Right on. Now I'm just curious how the 2.3 internals are gonna fit in the 2.0. That is unless they are simply honed out.
     
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    Ah I gotcha. The extra .3L of displacement come from the 2.3 crankshaft stroke. Bore is the same for both blocks
     
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    reserving space for build info. Tasca finally shipped my last minute parts order , so this weekend is GO TIME
    giphy.gif
     
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    #17 BoostedMTBer, May 6, 2019
    Last edited: May 14, 2019
    Progress update:
    Spent the weekend, and I mean entire weekend, assembling the new block and dropping it back in the car.
    The 2.3 parts mounts up to the Fusion block pretty well but there are definitely a few subtle differences. The main take away for anyone looking to build up a fresh 2.0 block is that you'll need to grab the 2 head alignment dowels (W701183-S300), the main coolant plug (W701548), and 3 oil galley plugs (W711692 x2, W711691). I F*ed up and did not get the correct oil galley plugs, but I was able to thread them out by using a 11/16 bit and then used a thread tap (Irwin Hanson High Carbon Steel SAE Pipe Tap 1/2 in.-14NPT) to plug them with standard hex 1/2'' NPT pipe plugs. Also the water pump housing is built into the 2.0 block, so you'll have to dissemble the 2.3 water pump housing and install the 2 pieces directly onto the block. I was able to pull out the 90 degree nozzle and install it onto the block as well, but I'd recommend buying a new one instead to avoid the hassle.

    upload_2019-5-14_12-33-59.png

    Other than that, my old man was a big help and we were able to take our time and follow the manual step by step. Just need to finish up getting everything bolted up and cross my fingers that she runs. A buddy i've made through the ecoboost FB page, Justin, let me borrow his home made crankpin kit and I was able to get my pulley and gear pinned to the crank and held together with a ARP crankbolt. Beats the hell out of depending on friction washers to hold everything together and not slip timing- which would be catastrophic. 2N9M-_eu.jpg large.jpg 13N3uZhG.jpg large.jpg Poi4ldNw.jpg large.jpg Qis6p7QS.jpg large.jpg WUTCs-Rh.jpg large.jpg
     
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  18. OP
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    BoostedMTBer

    BoostedMTBer Well-Known Member

    First Name:
    Derek
    Vehicle(s):
    Mustang Ecoboost Premium
    Joined:
    Jan 3, 2019
    Location:
    Dallas
    Posts:
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    I made a fiscally irresponsible choice for my birthday gift to myself that was also the one of the best deals I've ever snagged!!!!!!
    $1525 for a full CP-E big turbo kit :champagne::beer::handsinair: ... just need port injection now :giggle:
    • Precision 6262 Ball Bearing Turbo
    • Catless downpipe w/ midpipe exhaust dump
    • Big CPE intercooler w/brackets and piping
    • Tial 50mm BOV
    • Precision Wastegate w/extra springs
    • Oil feed and return lines
    • Catch Can no lines
    upload_2019-5-10_12-25-19.png
    upload_2019-5-10_12-14-1.png


    Will just have to tell the fiance that the car came with it :cwl:
     
    Juben and Directnova like this.
  19. Directnova

    Directnova New Member

    First Name:
    Thomas
    Vehicle(s):
    2017 GMC Sierra SLE
    Joined:
    May 12, 2019
    Location:
    New-Brunswick, Canada
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    Great build thread!

    Cant wait to see more.
     
    BoostedMTBer likes this.
  20. OP
    OP
    BoostedMTBer

    BoostedMTBer Well-Known Member

    First Name:
    Derek
    Vehicle(s):
    Mustang Ecoboost Premium
    Joined:
    Jan 3, 2019
    Location:
    Dallas
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    Been a while since I’ve posted an update, but car is up and running! After spending three months in the garage covered in grease, I had a lot of wedding planning to catch up on (by planning I mean agreeing with the fiancé on her decisions). However, I did make some rookie mistakes and have some additional info to share.


    Piston Rings:

    my trusted EB guru recommended I use .0065’’ as my multiplier and who am I to argue. Bought a little piston ring grinding wheel and went to work gaping the rings to the following specs (inches). This is one of the most crucial steps and I may or may not have had to pull the engine out and rebuild it a second time because I under-gaped my rings. Just thankful they didn’t bind up and cause any damage. If there are any engine building rookies out there serious about building your short block and want some pointers- feel free to message me

    upload_2019-6-14_16-45-10.png



    Valve Lash:

    Valve lash is adjusted on these cars by using different size tappets, which are just little metal buckets. Ford offers a bunch of different height tappets and if you make any changes to the head you should be prepared to drop up to $200 to pick up the correct size tappets to set valve lash. You select the correct tappet size by measuring clearance between the cam and tappet when the cam lobe is pointed away from the tappet. You rotate the cam around (make sure to apply fresh oil liberally and regularly) and use your feeler gauge to measure all of the lobe/tappet clearances. Then using the following formula calculate the correct tappet thickness. I’ll include a list of ford part numbers for the different tappet sizes they offer for easy reference.


    upload_2019-6-14_16-45-25.png
    upload_2019-6-14_16-45-29.png
    upload_2019-6-14_16-45-38.pngupload_2019-6-14_16-45-44.pngupload_2019-6-14_16-45-49.pngupload_2019-6-14_16-45-54.png
     
    Bull Run, TicTocTach, Juben and 2 others like this.
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