My Bullitt will see the drag strip for the first time tomorrow

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NGOT8R

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You need to launch higher , a little (little lol) wheel spin is good for N/A motor . With a 1.9-2.0 60ft you must be bogging the motor down. That will kill ET and MPH.
No bogging the motor down at all, I was launching off of the WOT Box at 7400 rpm. I’m gonna have to believe that improper adjustment of the Hitmaster is the issue. It’s the only major change to the car that could affect my short times to this degree, especially with high rpm launches. It was weird to run a 12.30 with a 2.0 sixty (the worst sixty of the three runs).

In this video here (first track outing from two weeks prior), this launch was at 6400 rpm and it was also a 2.0 short time. You can see and hear it, especially on the 1-2 shift before I aborted the run. Looking back on it, I think this was the first sign of clutch trouble.


 

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Clutch trouble it is , have you tried running the car doing everything manually not using the hitmaster ?

No bogging the motor down at all, I was launching off of the WOT Box at 7400 rpm. I’m gonna have to believe that improper adjustment of the Hitmaster is the issue. It’s the only major change to the car that could affect my short times to this degree, especially with high rpm launches. It was weird to run a 12.30 with a 2.0 sixty (the worst sixty of the three runs).

In this video here (first track outing from two weeks prior), this launch was at 6400 rpm and it was also a 2.0 short time. You can see and hear it, especially on the 1-2 shift before I aborted the run. Looking back on it, I think this was the first sign of clutch trouble.

 
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Clutch trouble it is , have you tried running the car doing everything manually not using the hitmaster ?
I haven’t, but wish I had though. I thought about when I was at the track yesterday, but there were so many cars in the staging lanes that I said screw it and left early.
 

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"I’m going to pull the drag wheels, put the factory wheels back on and baby the car on the factory clutch, while I regroup and decide which direction to go from here"

Wise man! One of my racing buddies is having a similar problem (not with a hitmaster, but a newly built engine). He is de-tuning the motor, reducing his RPM at both launch and shift points, so he can pin point and correct his cars problems.
Sounds like you have a really cool set up!!
 
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"I’m going to pull the drag wheels, put the factory wheels back on and baby the car on the factory clutch, while I regroup and decide which direction to go from here"

Wise man! One of my racing buddies is having a similar problem (not with a hitmaster, but a newly built engine). He is de-tuning the motor, reducing his RPM at both launch and shift points, so he can pin point and correct his cars problems.
Sounds like you have a really cool set up!!
Thank you! Yes, the Hitmaster is indeed a very nice setup. I went to great lengths to make the install as nice and clean as possible, so I’d like to get it dialed in and stick with it. I just need a little help on the adjustment (next time around).

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/clutch-tamer-for-mt82-transmissions.163126/
 


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What is a stock Bullitt's known (real world) ET's and what were you hoping for after all your mod work? Sorry you had a rough go after all that effort.
 
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What is a stock Bullitt's known (real world) ET's and what were you hoping for after all your mod work? Sorry you had a rough go after all that effort.
Thank you. Ford Performance’s website shows that the Bullitt ran a 12.9 @ 112.XX out of the box. Let’s also take the factory hp rating of 480 at the crank and assume there would be an 11% power loss (or 52.8 hp) at the tires due to driveline absorption, which would put real world numbers at 427.2 rwhp.

Now let’s do the same thing with my car and add in 11%, to arrive at crank hp numbers based on my Dyno criteria which was, the car spun the roller to 469 rwhp. That would mean that my car would make 520.59 hp at the crank.

Factory Bullitt crank hp = 480
My modified Bullitt crank hp = 520.59 (a 40.59 hp increase)

https://performance.ford.com/enthusiasts/collector-vehicles/mustang/bullitt/2019.html

With the mods I have done to the car, I was hoping for at least 11.40s - 11.50s on motor and 10.30s - 10.40s on nitrous.

Lastly, let’s I put that information for both cars into a 1/4 mile calculator based on the factory curb weight of 3705 lbs.

Factory Bullitt 1/4 Calculator estimate

1653665587839.png


My modified Bullitt 1/4 mile Calculator estimate

1653665669236.png
 
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Do you ever drive it hard on the street? Does it feel like it performs there?
I tend to think you have over complicated the setup here. Skip the wot box and clutch thing and just drive it and see how it does.
That said…your trap speed is showing a lack of power, likely being spun off by the clutch slipping.
 

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3705 lbs is for the option-free base Mustang GT according to Ford. Not sure what the Bullitt weighs but the one C&D drove weighed 3850 lbs and did 115mph in the quarter
 
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Do you ever drive it hard on the street? Does it feel like it performs there?
I tend to think you have over complicated the setup here. Skip the wot box and clutch thing and just drive it and see how it does.
That said…your trap speed is showing a lack of power, likely being spun off by the clutch slipping.
I have done a few NLS since the clutch mod install, but no high rpm launches. I plan on babying the car for now, while I regroup and save a little coin for a new clutch. I’m also trying hard to justify upgrading a few things in the transmission.

Once I install a new clutch, I will definitely make it a point to make the first few hits at the strip without the Hitmaster to see what I’m working with before trying to reintroduce it. I know there are several guys successfully running them in the GM community, so I’ll probably create an account on one of the GM forums and ask for a little help with setup.
 

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I have done a few NLS since the clutch mod install, but no high rpm launches. I plan on babying the car for now, while I regroup and save a little coin for a new clutch. I’m also trying hard to justify upgrading a few things in the transmission.

Once I install a new clutch, I will definitely make it a point to make the first few hits at the strip without the Hitmaster to see what I’m working with before trying to reintroduce it. I know there are several guys successfully running them in the GM community, so I’ll probably create an account on one of the GM forums and ask for a little help with setup.

Great ideas.

I think get it to a point where there is some consistency without the electronics and then add them in - one at a time if possible - and see where they take you!

Good luck man! Keep at it and keep your chin up!
 
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Great ideas.

I think get it to a point where there is some consistency without the electronics and then add them in - one at a time if possible - and see where they take you!

Good luck man! Keep at it and keep your chin up!
Thank you for your words of encouragement! I’m optimistic that I’ll get it sorted out. I just wish I’d had more time to enjoy it before things went south. I have a sign on my garage wall that says: “Race it, break it, fix it, repeat.”

On the bright side of things, at least I’ll be able to teach myself a few new things like how to R&R a transmission and clutch and maybe eBen tweak a few things in the tranny.
 

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I'm new to this party but can I ask why you are using some random Lunch Control device and not the build in Lunch Control that the Bullitt comes with ? I do some drag racing from time to time and the stock LC is good enough to get the car off the line.
 
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I'm new to this party but can I ask why you are using some random Lunch Control device and not the build in Lunch Control that the Bullitt comes with ? I do some drag racing from time to time and the stock LC is good enough to get the car off the line.
I installed the Hitmaster Clutch Hit Control System (by Clutch Tamer), for a few reasons.

1. To help the car launch consistently without the need to slip the clutch manually, so as to preserve the clutch.

2. To preserve driveline parts from shock loads associated with launching a car on sticky tires.

3. The product was advertised as providing an even bigger benefit when using nitrous.

The WOT Box (which is a separate part of the equation) was installed to enable No Lift Shifting by providing a default kill time of 350 milliseconds and the ability to adjust to even lower kill times. In theory, this would allow the gears to slow down and the synchros to help them mesh properly and make for clean smooth shifts and hopefully preserve the transmission. The second reason for the WOT Box was to allow for higher rpm launches which is what the Hitmaster needed. I couldn’t achieve this with the factory launch control because it only goes to 5K rpm. I used the WOT Box in conjunction with the Hitmaster to launch at 7400 rpm.

This whole deal sucks for me because I didn’t even get to enjoy the car after all the money and hard work that I put into it. One thing is for sure, I will get the car dialed in on a new clutch and possibly even a nice transmission upgrade. It just may take a bit, but it will happen.
 

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I installed the Hitmaster Clutch Hit Control System (by Clutch Tamer), for a few reasons.

1. To help the car launch consistently without the need to slip the clutch manually, so as to preserve the clutch.

2. To preserve driveline parts from shock loads associated with launching a car on sticky tires.

3. The product was advertised as providing an even bigger benefit when using nitrous.

The WOT Box (which is a separate part of the equation) was installed to enable No Lift Shifting by providing a default kill time of 350 milliseconds and the ability to adjust to even lower kill times. In theory, this would allow the gears to slow down and the synchros to help them mesh properly and make for clean smooth shifts and hopefully preserve the transmission. The second reason for the WOT Box was to allow for higher rpm launches which is what the Hitmaster needed. I couldn’t achieve this with the factory launch control because it only goes to 5K rpm. I used the WOT Box in conjunction with the Hitmaster to launch at 7400 rpm.

This whole deal sucks for me because I didn’t even get to enjoy the car after all the money and hard work that I put into it. One thing is for sure, I will get the car dialed in on a new clutch and possibly even a nice transmission upgrade. It just may take a bit, but it will happen.
Thanks for the explanation but what is the benefit of lunching and 7400 rpm which is essentially redline ?

Regarding oem clutch this things are not build to handle even the stock power same goes for the MT82 in the car and OEM diff ratios are also not beneficial for drag racing. I lunch my car at 3500 rpm and on unprepared track with OEM tires and 3.55 gears I run a 13.5 seconds with 415 crank hp.
 

 
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