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Mustang still sits very high after being on lift 3 days ago

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To get under the rear quarter, you need an offset of around +43 to 50 for a 10.5" wheel. My 19x11 +50 rears are just barely under and that's because I have -2.0 deg rear camber (for autocross/track use). Best to consult people for what works before just buying stuff...
I consulted Paul@PKAuto and spent hours researching this setup, I definitely did not just buy it. The camber needed to get under the fender is between -2.2 to -2.5 with this setup and I was told no modification is needed to get that much negative camber.
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I consulted Paul@PKAuto and spent hours researching this setup, I definitely did not just buy it. The camber needed to get under the fender is between -2.2 to -2.5 with this setup and I was told no modification is needed to get that much negative camber.
That sounds about right, i was at 2.3 when i went in for my alignment originally. My VMS drag wheel is 17x10 +54 i think the +30 is just to much poke for the rear, need camber to bring it in or look for a different rear wheel to get it how you want it
 

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Hey sir I check it out

1. Angel of the image taken has a big part to do with it.

Personally I believe that other vehicle is lowered more thats what it looks like to me and it is running more camber.
 
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Hey sir I check it out

1. Angel of the image taken has a big part to do with it.

Personally I believe that other vehicle is lowered more thats what it looks like to me and it is running more camber.
With Eibach Pro-Kits the suspension should be that low, yet my vehicle sits pretty high. I think I'm just having some sort of suspension issues at this point.
 
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Excuse the dirtiness, haven't had time to wash her and can't leave my driveway cause it's being paved.

Front fitment
Rear fitment

I think the fact that my suspension isn't sitting low is messing with the camber of the wheels and is causing the poke. Eibach Pro-Kits definitely don't sit this high.
 

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I believe you are thinking way to much into the suspension part of it. once installed the coils are compressed, they cant fall out or extend any more then the shock/strut will allow it to. lifting a car up only changes suspension geometry when you set it back down since the tire is not letting it slide over to unload it. once you move the car youll see it settle down. you lifting the car did zero, absolutely nothing to the ride height of your car. I think running the thinner tires along with the offset of your wheel and the lack of camber needed is giving you the circumstances you have.
 
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I believe you are thinking way to much into the suspension part of it. once installed the coils are compressed, they cant fall out or extend any more then the shock/strut will allow it to. lifting a car up only changes suspension geometry when you set it back down since the tire is not letting it slide over to unload it. once you move the car youll see it settle down. you lifting the car did zero, absolutely nothing to the ride height of your car. I think running the thinner tires along with the offset of your wheel and the lack of camber needed is giving you the circumstances you have.
Yeah at this point I think so too :frown: Maybe I can fix it by running thicker tires and dialing the camber more with an alignment. I really don't want to buy a new set of springs or wheels. I just don't understand why I was able to find multiple set ups of people running the same thing? Did they just lie about what lowering springs they used?
 

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Hmm, my car is lowered and has been lifted many times, the car was perfect after lowering and still is.

Not sure what some of those comments are about, lowering my Stang dramatically improved it, the thing sticks to the ground, turns unbelievably, it made the car so good that it was stupid, lol.

Note: my car is an ecoboost, it was lowered about 1.5" in front and 1" in the back, rake is perfect, also sport bushings and all the rest, the guy doing it just dialed it all in one afternoon, been great ever since.

Alignment sleeves are the key to the whole thing, wink, wink.

TC
 
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So I'm pretty sure the guy in my original comparison was running 275/35/20 instead of 285/30/20. This would mean his tires are .9" bigger in diameter than mine. Looks like I'm gonna have to get 285/35/20 tires and dial in the camber. Thanks for the help everyone.
 

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So I'm pretty sure the guy in my original comparison was running 275/35/20 instead of 285/30/20. This would mean his tires are .9" bigger in diameter than mine. Looks like I'm gonna have to get 285/35/20 tires and dial in the camber. Thanks for the help everyone.
this is my old set up. 20x10.5 with 305/35 on it. it was a +45 i think but i cant find the offset anywhere online. you may have to run a narrower tire though because of the offset

untitled-2.jpg
 

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this is my old set up. 20x10.5 with 305/35 on it. it was a +45 i think but i cant find the offset anywhere online. you may have to run a narrower tire though because of the offset

untitled-2.jpg
Yeah my tire will be a 285/35/20, its narrower so it'll balance out the differences between our offsets. I'll get the camber adjusted to somewhere between -2.2 to -2.5 and hopefully I'll be alright. My front wheels are nearly perfect so I will probably leave the 285/30/20 tires (also cause I can't return one of them) and dial in the camber a bit more as well.
 

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Bruhh, it is that +30 offset that is causing your poke and overall wheel/tire diameter that is causing the fender gap. Yours is poking quite a bit and I imagine it will take a lot of camber to get the top of the wheel in the fenders, keep in mind you could possible then get the Honda Civic leaning in rear tire look.

That 285/35R20 will make up for the height; keep in mind the offset is determined by the wheel and, or if spacers are used, and this affects how the much "wheel" pokes out. A 285/35R20 in itself does very little to correct an incorrect offset.

Also, don't don't be afraid of installing camber plates if needed.



Yeah my tire will be a 285/35/20, its narrower so it'll balance out the differences between our offsets. I'll get the camber adjusted to somewhere between -2.2 to -2.5 and hopefully I'll be alright. My front wheels are nearly perfect so I will probably leave the 285/30/20 tires (also cause I can't return one of them) and dial in the camber a bit more as well.
 

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ahh, the in's and out's of fitment. It takes a lot of research to really nail that down. Those mils add up quick.

Just wait till you really research high end tires. TireRack is your friend. Also look up the articles that our man Billy Johnson wrote.

In regards to wheel height, as others have said it will change fender gap.

Good luck OP :like:
 
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Bruhh, it is that +30 offset that is causing your poke and overall wheel/tire diameter that is causing the fender gap. Yours is poking quite a bit and I imagine it will take a lot of camber to get the top of the wheel in the fenders, keep in mind you could possible then get the Honda Civic leaning in rear tire look.

That 285/35R20 will make up for the height; keep in mind the offset is determined by the wheel and, or if spacers are used, and this affects how the much "wheel" pokes out. A 285/35R20 in itself does very little to correct an incorrect offset.

Also, don't don't be afraid of installing camber plates if needed.
Yeah the camber needed for that is between -2.2 to -2.5, I personally think it's an aggressive look but I understand why others don't like it.

ahh, the in's and out's of fitment. It takes a lot of research to really nail that down. Those mils add up quick.

Just wait till you really research high end tires. TireRack is your friend. Also look up the articles that our man Billy Johnson wrote.

In regards to wheel height, as others have said it will change fender gap.

Good luck OP :like:
Thanks for the tip! I'll make sure to post an update pic when the new tires come in and I adjust the camber.
 

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I went from 255,275/40/r19 to 285/30/r20.
Well, you shaved 24.5mm (almost an inch) from the rear fender gap, and rear ride height, and 16.5mm from the front fender gap and front ride height just with the tire change.
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