Mustang GT brake fluid color?

NGOT8R

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Flush, flush, and flush again! That could happen if the mechanic didn’t thoroughly bleed the system after your clutch work. I recommend doing the gravity bleed as suggested earlier. That way you’ll be able to see if and when the li es are clear and clean fluid is coming out. It’s really easy to do. The biggest job you’ll have is keeping the master cylinder full of fluid by constantly topping it off. You don’t want it to run dry, or you’ll introduce more air into the system and it will take longer to bleed. You can even drink a beer, or two, or three during the process.

 

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I'm hoping this might help. I've attached an image of my brake fluid reservoir. There appears to be some debris in there as well. Possibly signs of a worn seal or something contaminating the fluid. The fluid level has stayed consistent since I've owned the car and I've noticed no leaks whatsoever so I'm just not sure what to make of it.
grab the wife's turkey baster and suck it out. blue shop towel to clean it up.
fill with new and bleed. Then a run to the dollar store for a new baster before she finds out.

(follow me for more relationship tips :)
 
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ORRadtech

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you’ll introduce more air into the system and it will take longer to bleed.
If you introduce air into the system through the reservoir then you can just stop there and have it taken to a dealer or someone who can bleed the ABS pump. That's not something that can be done without a decent scan tool
 

NGOT8R

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If you introduce air into the system through the reservoir then you can just stop there and have it taken to a dealer or someone who can bleed the ABS pump. That's not something that can be done without a decent scan tool
I had a 2013 GT with ABS that I performed the gravity bleed procedure on after installing a JPC line lock and had no codes or issues. Never needed to take the car into the dealer to do anything with the ABS pump. When I bleed, I use a lot of fluid to make sure there’s no air in the system.
 

ORRadtech

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I had a 2013 GT with ABS that I performed the gravity bleed procedure on after installing a JPC line lock and had no codes or issues. Never needed to take the car into the dealer to do anything with the ABS pump. When I bleed, I use a lot of fluid to make sure there’s no air in the system.
You didn't read what I wrote.
It doesn't matter how you bleed the system. Gravity, vacuum, with the pedal, whatever as long as no air gets to the ABS, you're fine.
But if you introduce air into the system before the ABS pump you will need to have the ABS bled for which there is a process that requires a scan tool.
If you introduced air before the ABS and didn't have it properly bled then you got lucky.
Personally, with the brakes, I'd never take the risk.
 


NGOT8R

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You didn't read what I wrote.
It doesn't matter how you bleed the system. Gravity, vacuum, with the pedal, whatever as long as no air gets to the ABS, you're fine.
But if you introduce air into the system before the ABS pump you will need to have the ABS bled for which there is a process that requires a scan tool.
If you introduced air before the ABS and didn't have it properly bled then you got lucky.
Personally, with the brakes, I'd never take the risk.
Oh okay, I get what you’re saying. I must have gotten lucky, as I did disconnect lines from the ABS module itself on my 2013. Having said that, I also had an 04 Mach 1 that I opened up the ABS on and got an ABS light afterward. That one required a ride to the dealership on a tow truck to be properly bled using Ford’s equipment as you mentioned.
 

Zooks527

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Picked mine up today from my tire shop, for an alignment and a brake fluid change. 3 years old this month, so the time was here.
 
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*Update*

So I had the brake fluid flushed completely yesterday and put in some fresh DOT4 LV fluid. So far the issue of the inconsistent clutch pedal feel after aggressive driving has slightly improved but hasn't been gone away. Either way, the fluid was nasty and needed to be changed so that's done at least. What I have noticed is that regardless of how I drive the clutch pedal and shifter start to feel "sticky" and clunky after about 1-1.5 hours of driving. I'm assuming this is related to the throw out bearing as these seem to be problem areas on MT-82's. I'm just gonna drive it like I stole it and if something goes out I'll just fix it.
 

KingKona

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*Update*

So I had the brake fluid flushed completely yesterday and put in some fresh DOT4 LV fluid. So far the issue of the inconsistent clutch pedal feel after aggressive driving has slightly improved but hasn't been gone away. Either way, the fluid was nasty and needed to be changed so that's done at least. What I have noticed is that regardless of how I drive the clutch pedal and shifter start to feel "sticky" and clunky after about 1-1.5 hours of driving. I'm assuming this is related to the throw out bearing as these seem to be problem areas on MT-82's. I'm just gonna drive it like I stole it and if something goes out I'll just fix it.
Changing the brake fluid doesn't change the clutch hydraulic fluid.

Unless you pumped the clutch pedal 8,000 times to get it back, that fluid wasn't changed.

I don't know if you can crack the bleeder screw/nut on the slave cylinder without removing the trans. AFAIK that would be the only way to truly "change" the fluid in the clutch hydraulics.
 

Basspro302

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Changing the brake fluid doesn't change the clutch hydraulic fluid.

Unless you pumped the clutch pedal 8,000 times to get it back, that fluid wasn't changed.

I don't know if you can crack the bleeder screw/nut on the slave cylinder without removing the trans. AFAIK that would be the only way to truly "change" the fluid in the clutch hydraulics.
There isn’t a bleeder screw on the slave.
 

 
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