Mustang GT Active exhaust controller standalone

[Filmchaser]

Running! …now to finish wiring, heat shield, and design an enclosure to print and/or figure out where I want to mount the control/display.
Ironically, I came across an OEM actuator to test last night so I’ll be able to confirm (soon) whether or not they are identical in function and position to the BMW versions.

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[Geosh]

Note-I don’t have the oem actuators to compare, however, from looking up pictures online the below seems to be the case.

A couple of updates:
I was having issues with the valves not fully closing.

1. After much tinkering and having a controller to move positions I realized the BMW actuators do not align with the positioning of the valves using the oem spring. I heard there was guy saying you could use these actuators because they fit but had to “clock it 180”. I opened up and rotated the shaft 180 only to realize after getting it sealed and back together that it’s positioning seems to be based on running to the limit (current spike) and then determine that as 1st position. So, in effect I did nothing but break open the actuator. It reset its positions and I was back to identical directions and positions.
2. I then tried writing different code to invert the position in one side. Still not lining up… in the end was a blessing because that added complexity and additional wiring that I now see I didn’t have to have.
3. Finally out of frustration, I made a jig using an old crescent wrench to bend my own springs.

Success! Both actuators rotate the valves in the sane positions as expected and I have true active exhaust. I’ll continue to tweak the code to adapt for RPM and or throttle position now that I can drive it and see what makes the most sense for my preference. It’s very cool to hear how much difference there is between modes. ( to remind, I have 3” pipes with no resonator).

I’m under the impression that the oem actuators do in fact work differently and it seems that the shaft may have the cut to hold the spring in a 90degree position different than the BMW actuators. This is based on what I found to work and the fact that the springs I made are only a few degrees off to allow correct positions between actuator and valve. Vs the oem spring which essentially creates a 90degree offset.

Anyway, that’s what I’ve found so far. I’ll post some video probably tomorrow of it working on startup
.

You can press the silver shaft out of the gear it’s in and rotate it 90 degrees. Then the BMW one will be aligned like the Ford one and you can use the same spring.

 

[Filmchaser]

You can press the silver shaft out of the gear it’s in and rotate it 90 degrees. Then the BMW one will be aligned like the Ford one and you can use the same spring.

Great info. I didn’t think to look at that. I assumed it was permanently fixed in the gear. That would work. I have an OEM actuator on it’s way so I can compare functionally and see exactly what the clocking is. It may be exactly 90? But I don’t know yet. Thanks.

 

[mavisky]

Great info. Trying to learn as much as I can about how the systems work to see how much may pertain to my GT350 2 position system.

Also found this old thread talking about a LIN network that is involved in the factory controlling of the valves.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/simple-gt350-active-exhaust-setup.138833

Also following this thread on another forum where we're trying to find ways to lock the factory valves in place electronically while retaining drive modes.

https://trackmustangsonline.com/threads/controlling-the-gt350-exhaust-valve.14051/

 

[acemastr]

I cut the actuators apart and wired a dual polarity switch directly to the motors. It would be nice to have the flaps change according to RPM though.

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