Must have drag racing mods for consistency and reliability

[21 antimatter]

I was wondering if the drag racers on here would mind sharing their experience on what mods/upgrades are necessary to ensure consistent ETs and to avoid any breakage at the track. Starting off would be what mods if any are needed if staying with stock tires and 3.15 gears with the lsd. Either the P Zero or a dedicated Summer only tire. Then what would be an absolute must after adding a drag radial. I've done some reading, but was hoping to get some input from people who have drag raced with an unmodified NA S550 routinely.

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[Coyote Chase]

I ran a full season, without making any modifications to my S550 Mustang. Track time is more valuable than any mod!

 

[WildHorse]

but was hoping to get some input from people who have drag raced with an unmodified NA S550 routinely.

IRS cradle alignment & bushing support kit, beefy vertical links, & sticky tires is all you need.

 

[21 antimatter]

How long will the traction lok clutches last with sticky tires? I ended up putting a locker in my whippled 06 due to issues with the diff. Also, will the stock 1/2 shafts hold up if I run a 26" streetable drag radial.

 

[Coyote Chase]

.

 

[21 antimatter]

stock

 

[NGOT8R]

Half shafts might break on you eventually. Wheel hop is the 1/2 shaft killer.

 

[WoodburnGT]

I bought my 22’ specifically to make it a 1/4 bracket racer. Here’s what I’ve upgraded so far.

1)Drivers side halfshaft to GT350 halfshaft
2)BMR billet vertical links
3)Kelltrac IRS lockout kit
4)BMR billet adjustable camber arms
5)M/T ET Street R 305/45R17 rear tires
Those 5 would be a great start.
I’ve also added the following…
6)Viking double adjustable rear drag shocks
7) M/T 28x6 front skinnies on Weld 18x5’s
8)BMR front and rear drag springs.
Next month I’m adding Kooks headers and it’s being tuned on E85.

 

[Andy13186]

Wheels and tires that you can hook with

 

[NGOT8R]

I bought my 22’ specifically to make it a 1/4 bracket racer. Here’s what I’ve upgraded so far.

1)Drivers side halfshaft to GT350 halfshaft
2)BMR billet vertical links
3)Kelltrac IRS lockout kit
4)BMR billet adjustable camber arms
5)M/T ET Street R 305/45R17 rear tires
Those 5 would be a great start.
I’ve also added the following…
6)Viking double adjustable rear drag shocks
7) M/T 28x6 front skinnies on Weld 18x5’s
8)BMR front and rear drag springs.
Next month I’m adding Kooks headers and it’s being tuned on E85.

Hook and book!

 

[NGOT8R]

Mine is still a work in progress. I just put the Steeda adjustable camber arms and toe links on today. I paired them with the BMR camber lockout kit. I’ve been waiting for wheel studs for over 2 months now. I Can’t wrap things up without them.

Steeda adj. toe link vs factory toe link

Factory camber arm

Steeda adj. camber arms with BMR camber lockout kit

 

[Mach1soldier]

I have roughly 55 passes on my Mach now. Tires and a tune are most important in my book.

I can cut the same sixty foot every pass but the shifts for 4-5 5-6 are so inconsistent there is .15 variance in my runs. Same sixty foot and 330 every time. Just last half of track.

Something to consider. I’m ordering a tune because I can’t stand 4 passes in a row being the same and then all of a sudden it shifts weird and I lose .15.

 

[NGOT8R]

I have roughly 55 passes on my Mach now. Tires and a tune are most important in my book.

I can cut the same sixty foot every pass but the shifts for 4-5 5-6 are so inconsistent there is .15 variance in my runs. Same sixty foot and 330 every time. Just last half of track.

Something to consider. I’m ordering a tune because I can’t stand 4 passes in a row being the same and then all of a sudden it shifts weird and I lose .15.

What do your short times look like?

 

[Mach1soldier]

1.94-1.95 in drag mode at zero DA

Goes to 1.97-1.98 at 1400 DA.

 

[NASteve]

I would make it hook before adding any power, wheel hop is what is killing parts, at least for N/A cars. So drive it 100% stock and get a feel for what it will do, then add tires and do it again, if the tires stick and not hop then move on to the next mod suspension or power, if it does hop again move onto the next mod which should be suspension and preventing cradle movement. But like stated before seat time does a lot for you vs just buying parts because there are high 11 sec 100% stock cars because they have a lot of seat time with that car vs buying parts.

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