MT82-D4 rebuild thread

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NGOT8R

NGOT8R

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Whimpy shift forks
Yep. it’s apparent that the 2019 Bullit didn’t get the upgraded forks. I wonder if the 2015-2017 MT82 had steel shift forks and if so, would they be a direct replacement in the D4? I was hoping mine had them. I would like to replace my 5-6 shift forks with them.
 
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The two large detent pins have proven to be a huge PITA to remove. I managed to remove one from the right side of the casing, using a combination of a modified slide hammer adapter, a half shaft removal tool and a 5 LB hammer. By the time I got to the left side, my modified slide hammer adapter was rendered useless from the beating it had taken on the right detent pin.

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I located another Detent Removal Tool online and they want $282 for it. Ridiculous pricing!!!

https://www.freedomracing.com/308-812-detent-remover.html

I continued searching and found another used one (different brand) which looks almost identical to the expensive version, so I ordered it. We‘ll see how things shake out once I receive that tool in a few days. Hopefully this will do it, as I can’t see spending almost $300 for a tool that may only be used once.

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Still waiting on the detent pin removal tool to arrive. In the meantime, I removed the 1st/2nd shift forks and reverse rail. Note: In order to get these out, I used a transfer punch that fit into the hole of the shift rod and used it to engage the gears. I then put the transmission in what I believe to be 6th gear to release the 1st/2nd shift forks, so that I could remove them. Here are some comparison pics of the factory 1st/2nd shift forks and the new billet one that I will be replacing those with.

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So although the service manual specifically states the shift forks are forged steel it appears they are the special lightweight, non-magnetic version. That's a forgery alright!
 
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Update:

Pulled all gears, synchros, support plate and shift gate.

Tools used were medium and large 2 jaw pullers (to pull gears and synchros), 13mm socket (for support plate bolts) and T45 torx bit (for shift gate bolts).

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So although the service manual specifically states the shift forks are forged steel it appears they are the special lightweight, non-magnetic version. That's a forgery alright!
Oh, indeed it is!
 

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Following this thread closely! Although I don’t intend to do the work myself I am looking to see exactly what parts are upgrading and where to get them. I had already decided on carbon synchros and billet shift forks with bronze shift pads. Is there any other parts that you would recommend OP?
 
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Following this thread closely! Although I don’t intend to do the work myself I am looking to see exactly what parts are upgrading and where to get them. I had already decided on carbon synchros and billet shift forks with bronze shift pads. Is there any other parts that you would recommend OP?
I plan to install hybrid ceramic bearings in mine if I can source them.
 
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Today, I received a few parts from MMR, one of which was a billet rear plate, rear seal, trigger wheel and sensor. With the tranny and clutch out of the car, I figured this was a good time to do this mod. I didn’t have any issues with the rear seal leaking, but just wanted to make sure I had a fresh one in there since it’s so much trouble to get to. I do like the design of the MMR plate much better, as it uses a rope style viton gasket and doesn’t require the use of RTV sealant like the factory plate.

This was a really simple install once I managed to remove the factory plate, which seemed to be fused to the back of the block.

9289BCAD-70F3-45CA-AF76-3B8B690179DB.jpeg
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Today, I received a few parts from MMR, one of which was a billet rear plate, rear seal, trigger wheel and sensor. With the tranny and clutch out of the car, I figured this was a good time to do this mod. I didn’t have any issues with the rear seal leaking, but just wanted to make sure I had a fresh one in there since it’s so much trouble to get to. I do like the design of the MMR plate much better, as it uses a rope style viton gasket and doesn’t require the use of RTV sealant like the factory plate.

This was a really simple install once I managed to remove the factory plate, which seemed to be fused to the back of the block.

9289BCAD-70F3-45CA-AF76-3B8B690179DB.jpeg
820CE58E-25CD-40B3-89A2-5FEF20756D1A.jpeg
That’s a good looking piece
 
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That’s a good looking piece
Yep! It’s too bad it’s gonna be hidden behind the transmission, just like the clutch. The seal looks and feels like it‘s a higher quality the factory seal too.
 

 
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