Motor Mounts For 2019 GT; Steeda or UPR?

[Ghost50]

Can anyone help shed some light on either of these options for me?

I decided to make these my next mod. I was talking to the owner of a shop I go to today and I mentioned how I was thinking of doing the Barton Hybrid 3 and Shaftmaster aluminum one piece to help finalize the stiffening of my driveline.

He threw out the idea of changing the mounts out. He did it on his car because he wanted to keep his stock shifter and said that by just adding the mounts it really made the car shift better by taking out that extra slack caused from the engine flexing.

So before I add the shifter and shaft I’m going to do this. My diff and rear suspension are solid and I love how the car rides. I just want that little bit of looseness that is left gone from the driveline.

So for those of you who have done these can you please chime in with any info and tips you may have?

If I go Steeda should I use the red bushings? I don’t mind some NVH (as evidenced by the diff bushings and hardware) but I don’t know how severe it will be with the mounts.

Do I lower it 1/2”?

Do I have to worry about changing the driveline angle?

Thanks!

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[Notheryote]

I just put the BMR poly mounts on my 19 because I was trying to see if it would help limit or stop some false knock I was seeing when the engine torques over. Still unsure if it helped much, but it appears to have helped some.

Anyways, just do normal polyurethane mounts whichever you choose or you'll really dislike the amount of NVH it will add. With poly mounts (mine is auto), the only real noticeable NVH I have is between 800-1800 RPM then it dies off. Through that RPM range there's quite a bit of vibration felt throughout the entire car, but doesn't really bother me. I would imagine with a stick car it would be not enjoyable very quickly if you go to solid mounts or very hard mounts because that vibration will be transferred to both your hands through the steering wheel and the shifter.

Also, don't drop it unless you need to or want a possibly lower center of gravity. If you do drop it, there's potential you can introduce some clearance issues if you're not careful and end up giving yourself false knock if something starts contacting.

 

[Ghost50]

I just put the BMR poly mounts on my 19 because I was trying to see if it would help limit or stop some false knock I was seeing when the engine torques over. Still unsure if it helped much, but it appears to have helped some.

Anyways, just do normal polyurethane mounts whichever you choose or you'll really dislike the amount of NVH it will add. With poly mounts (mine is auto), the only real noticeable NVH I have is between 800-1800 RPM then it dies off. Through that RPM range there's quite a bit of vibration felt throughout the entire car, but doesn't really bother me. I would imagine with a stick car it would be not enjoyable very quickly if you go to solid mounts or very hard mounts because that vibration will be transferred to both your hands through the steering wheel and the shifter.

Also, don't drop it unless you need to or want a possibly lower center of gravity. If you do drop it, there's potential you can introduce some clearance issues if you're not careful and end up giving yourself false knock if something starts contacting.

Thank you for the feedback, I appreciate it!

I will definitely be doing the poly based on what you said. That'll still help stiffen everything up over stock, yes?

And good info on the drop. I'd assumed that all of them were made to lower the engine down a bit. I don't want to introduce false knock issues or clearance problems.

 

[Notheryote]

Thank you for the feedback, I appreciate it!

I will definitely be doing the poly based on what you said. That'll still help stiffen everything up over stock, yes?

And good info on the drop. I'd assumed that all of them were made to lower the engine down a bit. I don't want to introduce false knock issues or clearance problems.

Yea for sure, the poly mounts are still much more stiff than stock. The stock mounts are essentially rubber bushings filled with oil, so they’re very pliable (with a few hundred pound engine pushing against them) and move a lot to absorb the nvh that ford is trying to limit to the average mustang owner.

 

[Ghost50]

Yea for sure, the poly mounts are still much more stiff than stock. The stock mounts are essentially rubber bushings filled with oil, so they’re very pliable (with a few hundred pound engine pushing against them) and move a lot to absorb the nvh that ford is trying to limit to the average mustang owner.

Gotcha - thanks.

I will check out the BMR ones too. I didn't realize they did mounts. 99% of my suspension is their stuff and I like their quality.

 

[Grimreaper]

Heard bmr is very very stiff. Steeda seems to be the middle ground. Is what I'll be getting. Search for motor mounts. Few guys have tried several brands. Dont think the coyote is silky smooth like the stock mounts have lead us to believe.

Op you have Solid diff and subframe?

 

[Ghost50]

Heard bmr is very very stiff. Steeda seems to be the middle ground. Is what I'll be getting. Search for motor mounts. Few guys have tried several brands. Dont think the coyote is silky smooth like the stock mounts have lead us to believe.

Op you have Solid diff and subframe?

Thanks for the info!

I’m thinking about going with UPR after talking to a couple people and reading up today.

Yes on the diff and subframe.

Cradle lockout
Subframe alignment
Subframe braces
Lower control arm bearings
Diff bushings and hardware
Vertical links

 

[Grimreaper]

Sounds like you are no stranger to nvh. Doubt any of the motor mounts would be a big deal harshness wise with you already having a solid mounted rear

 

[Ghost50]

I had the UPR polyurethane mounts installed this past weekend. I chose to lower the engine 1/2”. The shop where I have some of the work done on my car did it and they had the swap done in about 45 minutes after it cooled down.

I’m glad I did it.

It definitely made the car feel more responsive. Because I’ve got LCA bearings and diff bushings my car already had a stiff feel to it, which I like.

So I wasn’t really worried about added NVH. And honestly I felt zero added NVH after these were installed.

My goal with the car was to solidly the drivetrain and suspension prior to going with any power adders. So the three things l needed to add to complete my goal were the mounts, drive shaft and shifter.

So now I’ll be looking to add the shaftmaster one piece aluminum next.

In closing for $159 this mod is totally worth it.

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