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MMR Engine Block / Bellhousing Braces for Shelby GT350/R 5.2

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Mod Mustang Racing

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rocsteady

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After seeing how you guys were dealing with the transmission cooler line bracket attachment issue, I found a little misc piece that was able to fill the bill. Although it was slightly longer than I needed, and had three holes rather than just two, it's still much better than the wire ties I had put on to hold it in place..

1710007317239.png


1710007343244.png
 
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The way you are twisting that hard line to move the bracket that far down is putting stress on the transmission line. Just slide the bracket forward 2 inches and be done with it. No twisting of the lines, no added stress. I clearance the bracket hole slot on 1 side just large enough to accept the fastener that came with the brace. The near side of the bracket slot can still accept the original stud and nut if I ever go back.

IMG_0228.jpg


IMG_0224.jpg
 
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rocsteady

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The way you are twisting that hard line to move the bracket that far down is putting stress on the transmission line. Just slide the bracket forward 2 inches and be done with it. No twisting of the lines, no added stress. I clearance the bracket hole slot on 1 side just large enough to accept the fastener that came with the brace. The near side of the bracket slot can still accept the original stud and nut if I ever go back.

IMG_0228.jpg


IMG_0224.jpg
Interesting, and does stay on line with where it was initially. I never claimed to be the sharpest knife in the drawer as that would have been easier than my method. I actually grabbed the "big billy beru" pliers and wedged it to hold the bracket up near the lines and bent the bracket a bit down so it wouldn't be twisting/torque on the lines where I wanted to reattach it. Just sitting there the bracket was resting down at the spot I used for an anchor point. I may just take the bracket off and bend it back and do it your way though. Looks a LOT more professional than my concoction. Appreciate you sharing.
 
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The transmission line bracket remains in it's original orientation, just moved forward 2 inches. There is a plastic convolute on the top steel line that will keep pushing the bracket to it's original position. Just reposition it and adjust the convolute accordingly, widen the slot that you had your zip-tie through. Remove the larger fastener on your brace and keep test fitting it until the threads clear through the slot. reference my napkin drawing below.

Capture.JPG
 
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Thank you for the input and images, we will use these for those wondering the best way to do the GT350 braces.

Much appreciated.
 

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Sub'g thread.
 

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Thank you for the input and images, we will use these for those wondering the best way to do the GT350 braces.

Much appreciated.
I assume this effects MACH1's as well
 

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Did ya tig weld the crack before installing braces?
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