MMR cooling head head mod

DrZed

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CHT by #8 cylinder - at the most vulnerable cylinder so they say. I don't think we need to be concerned?

Screen Shot 2022-07-29 at 4.09.49 PM.jpg

 

K4fxd

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there's a reason why most ringland failures happen around cylinder seven and eight
Right, which is why I wonder about Ford not correcting it.
 

K4fxd

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CHT by #8 cylinder
That is cylinder number 4

Ford numbers the cylinders passenger side front of engine is
1 2 3 4 driver side is
5 6 7 8
 

shogun32

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4/8 or or 7/8 depending who's convention you're using, those last on the row are the problem.
 


tdstuart

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Just going to throw this out there but my #4 cylinder was the one that went. Looks like it detonated, melting the spark plug, left a hole in the piston, and melted the piston rings to the piston. Having the heads checked but the exhaust valve may be damaged as-well.

Still plan on getting the mod though, as like others have mentioned, I don't mind spending $150 incase it helps save my new motor.
 

Jackson1320

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Just going to throw this out there but my #4 cylinder was the one that went. Looks like it detonated, melting the spark plug, left a hole in the piston, and melted the piston rings to the piston. Having the heads checked but the exhaust valve may be damaged as-well.

Still plan on getting the mod though, as like others have mentioned, I don't mind spending $150 incase it helps save my new motor.
Everything that you described you had a whole lot more going on I don't think anything was going to save your engine maybe an injector clogged up I don't know but that's way beyond something the head cooling mode might have saved
 
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tdstuart

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Everything that you described you had a whole lot more going on I don't think anything was going to save your engine maybe an injector clogged up I don't know but that's way beyond something the head cooling mode might have saved
What I think happened is I was running a tune that was fuel correcting hard (30%+ cruising, 10%+ wot). I was doing a small but wot pull when it went. I think the car didn't fuel correct properly causing car to go very lean.

Could have been bad e85/ clogged injector. Not an engine expert by any means and I am only really going off of what I have seen and that my engine machinist/builder said it looks like the engine went lean and detonated around the exhaust valve.

Engine Cooling Mod definitely would not have saved the motor. Just throwing it out there that it isn't always the #8 and #7 that go as-well as me acknowledging that I would probably still pickup the mod.
 

Boosted21

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Well, that's not the way it's coming across (to me). It's like you've made up your mind it's a gimmick and you're challenging everyone who even suggests otherwise.

I have nothing to prove it isn't a gimmick. Or nothing to prove it isn't negligible.

I'm just saying the flip side of that is that there's nothing to discount or disprove the idea either.

I can see/speculate that if coolant enters from the exchanger at the front of the motor, by the time it reaches the rear of the motor, there's a gradient (where the coolant is lower temperature when it begins entering heat sourced areas, and as it warms, it's ability to sink heat diminishes). This is a very common problem among linear and plug flow assemblies.

Unless you create a manifold which evenly distributes coolant equally to all points of the heat source, you end up with a gradient.

To maximize heat transfer, the greatest average temperature difference is employed. So if you have Cylinder heads at 200F temps and coolant entering at 140F, the first cylinder it exchanges will have maximum benefit of the temp delta (60F) then as it absorbs heat, the next one the effectiveness is a little less (200F vs 150 or a 50F delta) and so forth and so on, by the time it reaches the far end, the delta is reduced and therefore it's ability to thermally transfer is reduced.

In those scenarios, a recirculating flow from the front to the back helps to even out the gradient and provide more average delta along the entire exchange.

If for whatever reason, the rear driver's side head is getting hotter and the coolant from the rear passenger head is slightly cooler, then a simple exchange would help to blend them and reduce the issue. Or if the passenger side is for whatever reason getting more flow rate.

I'm just saying, it would be an awful long con for MMR (and others) to develop this out of some sense of gimmick. I'm betting it works. I'm also betting that any benefits are probably debatable or negligible.
It seems to me that the head cooling mod would be more effective with a Reische 170 thermostat and a tune for the fans to kick on sooner then you would have cooler coolant at #8 and even temps with the cooling mod
 

Inthehighdesert

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You just described how mine was done and tuned.

It seems to me that the head cooling mod would be more effective with a Reische 170 thermostat and a tune for the fans to kick on sooner then you would have cooler coolant at #8 and even temps with the cooling mod
 

Angrey

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The thermostat only comes into play in specific situations for many parts of the country. In FL, it doesn't really matter if you run a 160 or a 170, or even the stock 190. It's going to eventually reach temp over the t-stat value anyway, just a matter of how quickly the t stat opens.

In colder weather, the lower T stat will indeed come into play and the motor will run cooler, but that's not necessarily always a good thing. Especially when you run E85 which cuts the engine oil and needs to be evaporated off (along with other volatile contaminants). A lower T stat in warm temperature areas simply means it takes slightly longer to reach operating temp.
 

Boosted21

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The thermostat only comes into play in specific situations for many parts of the country. In FL, it doesn't really matter if you run a 160 or a 170, or even the stock 190. It's going to eventually reach temp over the t-stat value anyway, just a matter of how quickly the t stat opens.

In colder weather, the lower T stat will indeed come into play and the motor will run cooler, but that's not necessarily always a good thing. Especially when you run E85 which cuts the engine oil and needs to be evaporated off (along with other volatile contaminants). A lower T stat in warm temperature areas simply means it takes slightly longer to reach operating temp.
Im never going E85 it’s just not practical for me. I have great 93 where I’m at
 

 
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