Mixing 0W20 with 5W30 oil in the 2018 Ecoboost

[ElAviator72]

Thinning the oil in the ecoboost is highly inadvisable, as oil that's too light might blow by the rings...especially with that zero weight(!). 0w-30 is probably okay in winter conditions (haven't consulted the manual, and it definitely doesn't get cold enough around here to warrant zero weight oil). I'm sure that if you have a warranty issue relating to oiling, and Ford tests the oil in the oil pan, Ford wouldn't honor the warranty because the oil weight was less than specified (30 weight).

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[Rick B]

What am I going to learn?

Everything, it seems. The guys on this forum know what they are talking about (most of the time). But, this is a very basic subject. Oil removes dirt from you engine and keeps it in suspension till you change it. If your oil isn't getting dirty, some thing is very wrong. Or yfos.

 

[TorqueMan]

I apologize as well if I came across hostile. We should all be brothers of sorts on this nice Mustang forum. I have owned and loved Mustangs since 1977 and am 56 years old now. I was searching YouTube some time ago about what’s the best oil to use. Trying to get opinions and this one video the guy said...the best oil is clean oil. Most oils are very good nowadays so change it when it gets dirty and you’ll be using the best oil. Made since to me. After all, when we change our oil, we put in fresh oil. We don’t put oil in that already has carbon deposits in it and who knows what else. That is my point.

Makes perfect sense. Stick with the recommended oil grade, specification and service interval and you should be golden (heh, get it? Golden, like clean oil!)

 

[iBookmaster]

Well, I’ve decided what I’m going to do. I am going to use Mag1 Ful Synthetic of course since I am such a big fan. I will be filling 4 quarts of 5W30 like the manual says and the remaining 1.7 quarts with the 0W20. I want to get a little bit of that zero startup value in there to help cold starts. I know some say I shouldn’t do it but, it’s going to be just fine. I won’t be dogging my car a lot or running it in extreme conditions. I will report back if I have any trouble but, I don’t expect any. Same brand being used, same oil, just a little bit of thinner weight to help the first start up of the day. I have a feeling Ford went to 5W30 because they know a lot of Mustang owners will be dogging their car a lot more than any of their other cars they sell.

 

[TorqueMan]

Same brand being used, same oil, just a little bit of thinner weight to help the first start up of the day.

If all you're concerned about is cold starts then why would you use a 0W-20 instead of a 0W-30? It's only the number with the "W" next to it that matters for cold starts; the second number tells you the weight at operating temps. It seems like you could assuage your concerns over cold starts without giving up the protection the manufacturer says you need from a 30 weight oil.

 

[Marvinmadman]

Because his oil brand doesn't make a 0w-30.

 

[15 Stang]

I have a feeling Ford went to 5W30 because they know a lot of Mustang owners will be dogging their car a lot more than any of their other cars they sell.

Not true, 5W30 is specified for all Eco-Boost engines in whatever platform that they are installed in, F-150, etc.

 

[iBookmaster]

Not true, 5W30 is specified for all Eco-Boost engines in whatever platform that they are installed in, F-150, etc.

Yes, they did. So, it makes you wonder why Ford went to 5W30 instead of 5W20. I have read that it could be too many warranty issues. 5W20 was giving the best fuel economy but, they may feel safer going up to the 5W30. Time will tell on that move. It looks like they are hoping 5W30 will protect the engines a little better. Either way, I still plan on putting in 4 quarts of 5W30 and topping off the remaining 1.7 quarts with 0W20 Mag1 Full Synthetic. I’m doing this like Marvinmadman said...Mag1 doesn’t make 0W30 so, I’m making a slightly modified 5W30.

 

[TorqueMan]

Yes, they did. So, it makes you wonder why Ford went to 5W30 instead of 5W20.

300+ lb-ft of torque was exclusive V8 territory just a few short years ago. Now imagine doing the same thing with half the cylinders. You have half as many power strokes, so each has to push twice as hard. That's a lot of pressure on internal parts. a 30 weight oil doesn't seem at all out of line for this application. Keep in mind the oil pump is meant to push around 30 weight oil. If it gets too thin your oil pressure will drop, which is not a good thing for an already heat challenged engine.

Either way, I still plan on putting in 4 quarts of 5W30 and topping off the remaining 1.7 quarts with 0W20 Mag1 Full Synthetic. I’m doing this like Marvinmadman said...Mag1 doesn’t make 0W30 so, I’m making a slightly modified 5W30.

Personally, I think you're throwing the baby out with the bathwater. My brain is too fried right now to do the math, but you are changing the cold viscosity grade by a tiny fraction. You'll end up with, say, somewhere between 4.5W and 5W. I don't believe the difference in cold-start wear over the life of the engine would even be measurable at the temperatures you're likely to see in VA. To get that, you must use an oil that doesn't meet the manufacturer's required spec to maintain your warranty coverage, and will introduce unknown operating characteristics when at operating temps, which is where the engine will spend the vast majority of its life.

I don't see the benefit.

 

[iBookmaster]

The first response in your last post refers to what I meant by dogging our cars. I don’t plan on doing much of that. The second you say I am not changing the formula to not get any benefit. You may be very well right. I am going to be the guinea pig and find out. Both viscosities will be from the most incredible oil brand I’ve ever used and I feel safe with it. I have already take a picture of my cylinder head temperature. It was 192º fully warm on a 90º day. We’ll see if that gets higher with a little bit of 5W20 mixed in with the 30. Honestly, I am expecting lower or the same. First reason is the thermostat will probably keep it regulated and second is I’m going to be using Mag1 and it has what they call FXM...friction management for xtreme protection. They call it evolutionary.

Here’s how their website describes FXM:
Today’s engines, machinery and equipment are evolving rapidly as OEMs push for more power density, lighter viscosity oil and increased fuel or fluid efficiency.

MAG 1 is leading the way in this new evolution, based on the science of advanced additives and powerful molecular structures. It’s all part of exclusive FMX Technology System.

It means – despite lower viscosities – MAG 1 still delivers extraordinary performance, strength and durability, in every grade. Even the thinnest MAG 1 oils and fluids perform better than thicker oils of the past.

 

[TorqueMan]

Here’s how their website describes FXM:
Today’s engines, machinery and equipment are evolving rapidly as OEMs push for more power density, lighter viscosity oil and increased fuel or fluid efficiency.

MAG 1 is leading the way in this new evolution, based on the science of advanced additives and powerful molecular structures. It’s all part of exclusive FMX Technology System.

It means – despite lower viscosities – MAG 1 still delivers extraordinary performance, strength and durability, in every grade. Even the thinnest MAG 1 oils and fluids perform better than thicker oils of the past.

There's not much difference in ad copy between oil manufacturers. Take a look at Mobil's website for its Mobil 1 oil and you'll see many of the same buzz words.

Here's a report from Blackstone Laboratories, a company that provides oil analysis for people and companies looking to save money, usually for fleet operations. Blackstone gets asked the which-oil-is-best question all the time, so they decided to test and find out. They tested a range of different used oil for wear metals--the metals that wear away inside your engine. The fewer wear metals found the better the oil is doing its job. You can read the report for yourself, but the TL;DR is the difference in engine type, time the oil is in use, oil viscosity, and operational conditions seen by the engine have far greater effect on wear level than the type of oil.

In other words, the most expensive oil you can buy will not provide measurably better wear protection than cheapest oil you can buy, assuming both meet a manufacturer's spec.

Stick with the manufacturer's spec and change your oil at or before the recommended interval and oil will never be a factor in your engine's service life.

 

[Rick B]

I use blackstone for every 5th oil change. I've been very surprised that they always come back to me and and suggest waiting longer to change oil. (Mobile 1 EP)

 

[TorqueMan]

I use blackstone for every 5th oil change. I've been very surprised that they always come back to me and and suggest waiting longer to change oil. (Mobile 1 EP)

How often do you change it?

 

[Rick B]

How often do you change it?

About every 5K or so.

 

[cstewartj]

I'm with the consensus, man, I wouldn't mix.

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