Mixing 0W20 with 5W30 oil in the 2018 Ecoboost

[stevegt]

Soooo no explanation? Cool.

If you notice I said “I” wouldn’t mix it. Just my OCD. Ha, ha!

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[Ebm]

Yes, the Mobil 1 wasn’t 0W20. It was 5W20. Either way, Mag1 stayed cleaner longer. Mag1 is really good stuff. Yes, when oil gets darker, it’s doing it’s job. Oil that stays cleaner long is doing an even better job. Oil life monitor was waaay different with Mag1 so, the oil life monitor knows more than people think here. 4000 miles and still on 100% life left. That’s absolutely amazing. I didn’t say I was going to mix brands. Only mix different thickness of Mag1.

Hate to break it to you, but Mag1 staying a lighter color has nothing to do with how well it's performing. Same with Mobil1 and being darker. The best way to tell how an oil is performing is with a UOA(used oil analysis). Don't assume about the color, here's why... motor oil from different companies isn't the same color. Company A has an oil that is very light, pretty much clear. Company B has an oil that is yellow. Company A may very well stay lighter longer, where as company B may have the darker oil of the two because it started out darker. It has no effect on cleaning or contamination.

Spend some time over at bobistheoilguy and learn a little bit man, don't assume.

 

[Deleted member 35644]

I wouldn't advise mixing for the purposes of going thinner in a car that requires 5W-30. The manual says it, the oil cap says it, and the Ford service departments' database says it. If anything, you'd want to go thicker to protect the turbocharger from the 1000+ degrees of exhaust temperatures it sees. I'd never put 5W-20 in this engine. In fact, living in Texas, I've been tempted to move up to 10W-30 or 5W-40. If the car is doing track duty, 5W-20 or a mixture thereof is not what you want.

A good synthetic 5W-30 isn't going to thicken appreciably in Virginia. I'd be more concerned in Northern Canada, but I still wouldn't go lighter than 5W-30.

 

[drive_55_not]

Mag1 stayed cleaner longer. Mag1 is really good stuff.
Yes, when oil gets darker, it’s doing it’s job.
Oil that stays cleaner long is doing an even better job.
Oil life monitor was waaay different with Mag1 .

MAG1 is made by Warren Oil who manufactures a lot of private brand oils. It's always been marketed as their high end oil. I have no opinion on it but my brother was a boat mechanic and used MAG1 for years.

One purpose of oil is to remove carbon deposits, That is what turns oil black ... If the MAG1 is staying cleaner longer, I'd be seriously concerned the oil isn't breaking down and removing that carbon ...

As far as mixing oil brands/weights, it's not an issue these days , 30+yeas ago mixing brands could've resulted in a sludged motor. Oil blends have come a long way since then.

There's numerous people who've complained their OLM stay stuck on 100% , 0% or somewhere in between, I don't go by it on my 2014, I use Mobile 1 and change it at 7,500 miles on the odometer then do a OLM reset.

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[TorqueMan]

Understanding oil weights isn't that difficult. The two number tell you the viscosity (how the oil flows) under different conditions. The first number--followed by a "W"--tells you how the oil will flow during "winter" conditions. The second number tells you how the oil will flow when hot. A 5W-30 oil flows like a 5 weight oil when cold and like a 30 weight oil when at normal operating temperature. That doesn't mean a multi-weight oil gets "thicker" when hot; the number is a comparison between oils at the same temperature. A "0" weight oil will flow much more slowly when cold than a "30" weight oil when hot.

The designers and engineers who developed and built your engine tested it under the most severe conditions any engine will likely see. Unless you run the same oil for 60k miles in the desert your engine will never see operating conditions like those the test engines endured. The data that resulted from all that testing indicated the BEST oil weight for the engine is 5W-30. That means the engine expects the oil to flow at the rate a 5 weight oil flows when cold, and at the rate a 30 weight oil flows when hot. Using proper oil viscosity ensures it will flow to all critical internal engine parts and provide the necessary cooling, lubrication and parts clearance when it gets there.

Oil provides lubrication and cooling for different kinds of parts inside the engine. Some parts roll around/across one another, other parts slide back and forth across each other. For the latter, the oil must provide a film between between the parts so they never actually touch each other. All other things being equal, the ability of an oil film to to prevent metal-to-metal contact is directly related to its viscosity. Ford's testing showed that the 2.3L engines in our cars when at normal operating temperature requires 30 weight oil to provide an adequate oil film for expected RPMs and engine loads. If you use a lower weight oil you risk metal-to-metal contact between critical engine parts, and drastically reduced engine durability.

 

[iBookmaster]

Hate to break it to you, but Mag1 staying a lighter color has nothing to do with how well it's performing. Same with Mobil1 and being darker. The best way to tell how an oil is performing is with a UOA(used oil analysis). Don't assume about the color, here's why... motor oil from different companies isn't the same color. Company A has an oil that is very light, pretty much clear. Company B has an oil that is yellow. Company A may very well stay lighter longer, where as company B may have the darker oil of the two because it started out darker. It has no effect on cleaning or contamination.

Spend some time over at bobistheoilguy and learn a little bit man, don't assume.

I’ve spent plent of time at bobs. I’d rather have clean oil in my engine than dirty oil. Hate to break it to you but, clean oil is safer than dirty oil.

 

[Ronstar]

I use Rotella T6, works really good.

Shell ROTELLA T6 Full Synthetic 0W-40 Motor Oil

 

[iBookmaster]

Just noticed something in my wife’s 2014 Escape owner’s manual. Her engine is the 2.0L Ecoboost and the manual calls for 5W30. The 1.6L and 2.5L both call for 5W20. That is a smaller and larger engine calling for 5W20. So, her 2.0 2014 engine and my new 2018 2.3 engine call for 5W30. Strange to me.

 

[Ebm]

I’ve spent plent of time at bobs. I’d rather have clean oil in my engine than dirty oil. Hate to break it to you but, clean oil is safer than dirty oil.

How does that correlate to anything I've said previously? Talking to you is like talking to a brick wall. You're thick headed. You will learn eventually...

 

[TorqueMan]

You could make a lot of money if you could tell the quality or lubricating properties of an oil simply by looking at it. There are labs all around the world that would like to talk to you.

 

[iBookmaster]

How does that correlate to anything I've said previously? Talking to you is like talking to a brick wall. You're thick headed. You will learn eventually...

What am I going to learn?

 

[GuardEcoBeast]

What am I going to learn?

Nothing.

 

[iBookmaster]

You could make a lot of money if you could tell the quality or lubricating properties of an oil simply by looking at it. There are labs all around the world that would like to talk to you.

I doubt I could do that but, I think everybody already knows clean oil is safer to run than dirty oil.

Nothing.

Wow, such hostility here. No wonder I haven’t frequented Mustang forums for a long time. Ya’ll have a nice day and enjoy your Mustangs!

 

[TorqueMan]

I doubt I could do that but, I think everybody already knows clean oil is safer to run than dirty oil.

I'm not trying to project any hostility; sorry if you got that impression from me. GuardEcoBeast made the point that an oil's color or "dirtiness" isn't a good measure of its ability to do its job and you seemed to ignore that. Fresh oil with good detergents will turn black within a few hours of use. That's because the detergents start cleaning the engine of gunk as soon as it's in use, and the oil holds that gunk in suspension, which makes the oil look black. Is that oil "dirty?" I guess since it's contaminated with "dirt" you can say it's dirty, and you can certainly change it if you like. But fresh, "clean" oil will not be any "safer" than "dirty" oil used only long enough to make it black.

 

[iBookmaster]

I apologize as well if I came across hostile. We should all be brothers of sorts on this nice Mustang forum. I have owned and loved Mustangs since 1977 and am 56 years old now. I was searching YouTube some time ago about what’s the best oil to use. Trying to get opinions and this one video the guy said...the best oil is clean oil. Most oils are very good nowadays so change it when it gets dirty and you’ll be using the best oil. Made since to me. After all, when we change our oil, we put in fresh oil. We don’t put oil in that already has carbon deposits in it and who knows what else. That is my point.

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