Misfire Counts On All Cylinders

[Cobra Jet]

If no one can determine a cause and even the Ford Performance Shop didn't come up with anything - and quite a few M6G members have recommended as well - why are you not going back to who tuned the car?

Throwing parts at it and dousing it with SeaFoam isn't the answer.

The only other suggestion I would have is check the crank sensor. Many have found the crank sensor to be damaged, the connector pins to it skewed, the harness wire pinched/damaged OR once the sensor is pulled, there's debris stuck to the magnetic end.

That sensor reads the tone ring at the flywheel, which relays the info back to the PCM for firing the engine - if there's any discrepancies whatsoever, the car will have sporadic drivability/idle issues.

Did you have any clutch work done to the car? If so there's also the possibility the tone ring could have been damaged.

Also to note - any time there is major engine or trans work done to any S550, the Tech or Owner must do a crank relearn procedure. I've not read all of your specific updates to your vehicle, but has that ever been done at all - or attempted to see if it would alleviate the issue?

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[Fat_Joe]

If no one can determine a cause and even the Ford Performance Shop didn't come up with anything - and quite a few M6G members have recommended as well - why are you not going back to who tuned the car?

Throwing parts at it and dousing it with SeaFoam isn't the answer.

The only other suggestion I would have is check the crank sensor. Many have found the crank sensor to be damaged, the connector pins to it skewed, the harness wire pinched/damaged OR once the sensor is pulled, there's debris stuck to the magnetic end.

That sensor reads the tone ring at the flywheel, which relays the info back to the PCM for firing the engine - if there's any discrepancies whatsoever, the car will have sporadic drivability/idle issues.

Did you have any clutch work done to the car? If so there's also the possibility the tone ring could have been damaged.

Also to note - any time there is major engine or trans work done to any S550, the Tech or Owner must do a crank relearn procedure. I've not read all of your specific updates to your vehicle, but has that ever been done at all - or attempted to see if it would alleviate the issue?

In the end, I decided not to worry too much about it as the engine light flashing got less frequent. I went with a Juggernaut tune and it hasn't flash since then. I can't pin it to be tune related yet because before I got the new tune, it was happening way less frequently (maybe colder weather helps???).

Now I have replaced the crank sensor myself and also replaced the clutch with a RST (went from an aluminum to lighten steel flywheel in the process). During the replacement I triple checked the tone wheel and ensured it was on the right orientation as I know that the crank sensor reads off the tone wheel for misfires. And yes, after replacement I did a crank relearn. And I have done quite a few crank relearns since then to try to alleviate the misfires... no luck

I have realized in the end that throwing parts at it is not the answer. At the same time, I have not had the engine light flash in a couple of months on it. So maybe it resolved itself somehow? I am sure I will know my answer when summer comes around. For now it sits in the garage

 

[Torinate]

I'm wondering if it's the new tune as well. Any correlation time wise as far the new tune and reduction of flashing light? How do you like the Juggernaut tune? What mods? Are you blown or turboed?

 

[Fat_Joe]

I'm wondering if it's the new tune as well. Any correlation time wise as far the new tune and reduction of flashing light? How do you like the Juggernaut tune? What mods? Are you blown or turboed?

I don't have any factual data at the moment to say if it's tune or not. Maybe when summer comes around, or on a warmer day I could take it out for a spin and really try to replicate the conditions that it would misfire on with the computer plugged in to see the counts. It really only flashed on my once since I picked it up in October from Ford (Even though they told me they couldn't resolve the misfire) I got my new tune end of November. I didn't have enough highway driving to say for sure if it has been resolved or not. The Juggernaut tune seems good so far. It really seemed like it woke the car up. But I would have to put my car on a dyno to say for sure. I made 425hp/357 ft-lbs to the wheels when I was tuned with VMP. (CAI, long tubes, 18 manifold, 47 lbs injectors, and e85) Full bolt ons and of course the Gen 2 coyote motor NA

 

[Torinate]

Nice numbers.

Well hopefully your issues are resolved! Update again in the spring when you've put more miles on to get an idea if it's completely gone. Hope so!!!

 

[Fat_Joe]

Nice numbers.

Well hopefully your issues are resolved! Update again in the spring when you've put more miles on to get an idea if it's completely gone. Hope so!!!

Thank you, I personally thought it was on the low end for hp and torque. But much appreciated! I will keep you updated in the spring once this snow passes, been hurting just watching the car sit there

 

[Fat_Joe]

Another update, Returned the whole vehicle back to stock minus the long tube headers. Talked with a tuner and confirmed the stock tune can be put back on the vehicle given the LTH. Drove the car a bit with the stock tune and same thing with the misfires. Flashing engine light on highway etc. I eventually got the imrcs locked out to see if I could rule those out and the tune adjusted to turn those off. Unfortunately same thing. Below is a some data showing the misfires on all cylinders. Did I get myself a lemon or something?

Misfire counts for last/current driving cycle

[Misfire Cylinder 1 Data]
Value: 72 Counts

[Misfire Cylinder 2 Data]
Value: 78 Counts

[Misfire Cylinder 3 Data]
Value: 124 Counts

[Misfire Cylinder 4 Data]
Value: 106 Counts

[Misfire Cylinder 5 Data]
Value: 32 Counts

[Misfire Cylinder 6 Data]
Value: 54 Counts

[Misfire Cylinder 7 Data]
Value: 40 Counts

[Misfire Cylinder 8 Data]
Value: 66 Counts

 

[Torinate]

I feel your pain!

That stinks. Wow! Consistent on every cylinder too.

Can you feel them and hear them? Can’t remember and didn’t read back, did you do a KAM reset and crank relearn?

 

[Fat_Joe]

I feel your pain!

That stinks. Wow! Consistent on every cylinder too.

Can you feel them and hear them? Can’t remember and didn’t read back, did you do a KAM reset and crank relearn?

I know right! It’s never ending.

I have noticed tons of backfire when decelerating at random times. Even on the stock tune. Erratic dips of rpm at idle. On the highways when it misfires I also notice afr goes rich (low 13s) on non ethanol gas. Drivability isn’t the best (sputters, and jerky acceleration).

I have done many crank relearns and kam resets. I can give it another try with the locked out imrcs though as I didn’t specifically run those. I just flashed the tune. But I can give that a try tomorrow

 

[Torinate]

Completely stinks.

I’m chasing the same sort of problems as you are. No idea. Seems very similar.

I hope you get it figured though. Hopefully some of the smarter guys on the board can give some more direction…

 

[NGOT8R]

Last week, I installed new non OEM upstream o2 sensors and my car threw the following codes: P0300, P0301, P0308 and P0316. In addition to these codes, the car stumbled, popped and bucked. The car ran so poorly, that I couldn’t even get the car down the street.

Yesterday, I removed the non OEM sensors and installed new OEM sensors. I’m now awaiting the arrival of a new air filter for my CAI Kit. I should have that in hand on Tuesday, at which time I will start the car and take it for a test drive. I’m fairly certain this will fix the problem.

I haven’t scoured this thread from beginning to end, so my apologies if this has already been mentioned. A couple of other causes of multiple cylinder misfires could be, a faulty crank sensor and/or it’s wiring harness. In my case, believe I can rule these out because I just replaced the sensor and inspected its harness about 800 miles ago.

 

[Fat_Joe]

Last week, I installed new non OEM upstream o2 sensors and my car threw the following codes: P0300, P0301, P0308 and P0316. In addition to these codes, the car stumbled, popped and bucked. The car ran so poorly, that I couldn’t even get the car down the street.

Yesterday, I removed the non OEM sensors and installed new OEM sensors. I’m now awaiting the arrival of a new air filter for my CAI Kit. I should have that in hand on Tuesday, at which time I will start the car and take it for a test drive. I’m fairly certain this will fix the problem.

I haven’t scoured this thread from beginning to end, so my apologies if this has already been mentioned. A couple of other causes of multiple cylinder misfires could be, a faulty crank sensor and/or it’s wiring harness. In my case, believe I can rule these out because I just replaced the sensor and inspected its harness about 800 miles ago.

Wow, I am pretty certain you found your issue as it started with the replacement of your o2s. What non oem brand did you happen to go with? I know the o2s are very critical sensors on these cars. Running e85 can be detrimental on them if they are not angled (which my stainless power LTH are not angled) during my process of restoring everything back to stock I threw on some new motorcraft f150 upstream o2 sensors since these are longer and it bypasses the use of o2 extensions with long tube headers. I ran e85 briefly on my old o2 sensors which is why I replaced them, just in case the readings were erratic.

My crank sensor is a year old. The old one was covered in clutch material. I might take my car back to ford again as they can now communicate with the computer since the car will have the stock tune on it. First I am going to replace all the spark plugs with oem ones that are pre gapped. Last time they tried telling me my spark plugs weren’t properly gapped and were going to charge me an arm and a leg to replace them all. I currently have NGK spark plugs gapped around 0.050 inches

 

[NGOT8R]

Wow, I am pretty certain you found your issue as it started with the replacement of your o2s. What non oem brand did you happen to go with? I know the o2s are very critical sensors on these cars. Running e85 can be detrimental on them if they are not angled (which my stainless power LTH are not angled) during my process of restoring everything back to stock I threw on some new motorcraft f150 upstream o2 sensors since these are longer and it bypasses the use of o2 extensions with long tube headers. I ran e85 briefly on my old o2 sensors which is why I replaced them, just in case the readings were erratic.

My crank sensor is a year old. The old one was covered in clutch material. I might take my car back to ford again as they can now communicate with the computer since the car will have the stock tune on it. First I am going to replace all the spark plugs with oem ones that are pre gapped. Last time they tried telling me my spark plugs weren’t properly gapped and were going to charge me an arm and a leg to replace them all. I currently have NGK spark plugs gapped around 0.050 inches

I ordered them from Parts Geek. See part number on box, along with a pic of the sensor.

In this pic you can see the difference in the tips between the non OEM sensor on the left and the old OEM sensor on the right.

 

[Fat_Joe]

I ordered them from Parts Geek. See part number on box, along with a pic of the sensor.

In this pic you can see the difference in the tips between the non OEM sensor on the left and the old OEM sensor on the right.

That’s a pretty noticeable difference! I am 95% sure that would be your issue. My f150s o2s look more like the one on the left. Just has a longer wire

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