Yup.. same story with mine. Actuator rod snapped. If I always drove at WOT, it wouldn't have mattered... but the car ran like hot dog sheet at partial throttle.
That's by bank.
What makes you think it's an injector problem? This is an ignition code, or a misfire. if the condition isn't optimal for ignition (ie too rich or too lean) then I would expect that to also throw a code on the fuel banks - separate code, and not just a misfire on #1.
OBD Link app. What OBD adapter are you using? Is this on iPhone or Android? Can you do logs as well?
Because this car is port injected, and the problem seems to be isolated at cylinder #1. I've ruled out the ignition coil by swapping #1 and #2. The next easy thing to do is to check the injector. Since these are OE with 144,000 miles, I figure it's about time to change them anyway. The other 7 cylinders seem to be firing just fine (otherwise I'd see a P0300 or another P030x), and this engine has a common fuel rail. That makes it seem unlikely it's a fuel pressure/volume issue.
OBDLink MX+
decel shouldn't matter. When the engine is in a negative-torque condition the misfire monitor is disabled.
There's fancy ways to test injector balance with modern cars like this. One way is measuring the current draw when each injector fires. A little knowledge of the circuit and a current clamp (and a good scan tool to disable each injector one at a time), and bob's your uncle. I understand you may not have access to all of that stuff, but most people have access to a meter. If you ohm out the injector that you suspect is bad and the two next to it (to get a baseline), you can get a pretty good idea if that one is bad. Not sure what the spec for a good one is on this engine, but it's probably somewhere between 10 and 20 ohms. If you see like double or triple what the others are, then it's bad for sure.
Unless I missed it - I did see you swapped coils - but have you pulled any spark plugs yet to see condition/read them? I'd be curious to see the #1 plug condition compared to the others.
