Osiris
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #1
Sorry long post but I need help from smart ppl....!
Ok I posted a thread awhile back that nobody answered, but been SCOURING this forum and the internet entirely. Car is 2018 5.0 A10 and stock rn.
The performance of the car went to crap within like 2 days from performing well to utter piss and had pending codes initially which were diff at first then evolved to what I am dealing with now. Original codes were P061a and P0175 and it was definitely misfiring but not throwing the codes initially.
P2022 that's now showing is Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch Circuit High.... Along with Cyl 5&8 misfires. Has not thrown a single bank 1 misfire code. Literally all of my problems stem from bank 2.
The P0175 code is a rich code for bank 2. The cat on bank 2 only was glowing cherry red but not anymore, since somehow I got it to quit throwing the P0175 code through my efforts I feel.
So far I have moved coils around bank 1 and 2 and even bought a new one to do this with and no change to misfire codes (p0305, 0308, 0316) changed plugs w/ NGK iridium gapped to .48-50, checked for fire at each plug and definitely have fire, changed to brand new Motorcraft O2s, tightened bolts that were loose around exhaust manifolds (there were like 5 total that weren't tightened all the way 2 on one side 3 other). Took the manifold off checked gaskets, checked out golden, checked intake runners and they all opened just fine but were gunked up with oil it looked like, but I am going to recheck to see if something broke somewhere still on the mechanism that actually moves the rods, cleaned intake up decently along with injectors individually best I could, listened with stethoscope on each injector and they're firing, dumped snake oil ass injector cleaner in just to "help". Cleaned the maf sensor w/ maf cleaner and wiped throttle body clean (which definitely was not dirty enough to cause issue but still cleaned it them) I have checked the harness that connects to all the sensors, injectors, coils, etc... for visible damage and found nothing that really seems to be a problem, at least from what I could see without taking it completely out. Checked fuses. Changed the oil which was actually low at the time of the change so I was concerned about that so did compression test later explained. I have checked for vacuum leaks, changed pcv valve, have made sure air intake is all connected with no leaks, and just anything that makes sense with vacuum, air in, and out, between intake to cats, just haven't done smoke test yet. Got to this point then changed out what Ford calls the Engine Air Shut Off Control which is just the intake runner solenoid on the back of the intake manifold and it is still throwing Cyl 5&8 misfire codes and the P2022 for high voltage to runner solenoid.
***note*** I found it interesting the passenger side catch can didn't have but probably like 2 or 3 Oz of oil in it but the oil was like not even on the dipstick, so filled it with about half a qt and it showed up... Then filled it to max. I changed the oil shortly after seeing if it made any change to the way the car acted and ran, but no change. So I'm wondering if the driver side valve cover vacuum line to the intake, whatever it has inside the valve cover, is not functioning properly? There was definitely oil in the intake. Maybe my catch can sucks too idk but it didn't appear to be plugged or anything like that. Took it off though and have the stock hose now. Nothing changed. This engine has always guzzled oil though like alot of coyotes and I'm an idiot for not checking it more regularly I already know y'all are gonna grill me on that if I even get any answer haha.
I realize I am just throwing parts at it rn but been hard to get an appt with Ford and I need this car running asap.
Background on car, ran e85 through it for most of its life with headers and JLT Lund tuned (probably around 35k-40k miles) which is why I have done most of what I have done as I understand e85 isn't the best on plugs, sensors, etc... And they pertain to possible problems with what I'm dealing with. It has right at about 52k miles so I still have the power train warranty but I'm also not sure how they even go about power train issues since I'm obviously out of the bumper to bumper, but still trying to get with Ford regardless.
The car had a new shortblock replaced at 9k miles so I know they were back there probably destroying the harness so at this point I'm leaning toward electrical issue with that harness, but went ahead and did a compression test letting the car lope like an LS and misfire to full temp, not good I know but hell idk what else to do. I held the throttle body open manually and tested all cylinders on bank 2 and they all read anywhere from like 180 to 220 psi and I'm pretty sure I did it right but that was the first time for me so not entirely sure. Read cylinder 1 to see and it was in line with the others.
Radiator fluid is full (I've seen where having lower fluid levels create idle issues)
I am aware of the VCT issues with these cars and have seen Alejandro Flores video on Gen 3 VCT and my intake and exhaust cams are reading 20 and 0 like they should. I suppose it could still somehow be a solenoid or phaser though? I bought a new cam position sensor and installed it in both places on bank 2 and nothing changed so I don't think sensor. I could grab a VCT solenoid but damn it's just throwing another part at it.
All of this is why I am leaning toward the harness being garbage.
Smart gentlemen assemble and help please!!!
I have been dicking with this for a week or more all around work and have had little time so I have probably forgotten something else I tried so ask me anything!
If you read all this I sincerely thank you for your time!
Ok I posted a thread awhile back that nobody answered, but been SCOURING this forum and the internet entirely. Car is 2018 5.0 A10 and stock rn.
The performance of the car went to crap within like 2 days from performing well to utter piss and had pending codes initially which were diff at first then evolved to what I am dealing with now. Original codes were P061a and P0175 and it was definitely misfiring but not throwing the codes initially.
P2022 that's now showing is Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch Circuit High.... Along with Cyl 5&8 misfires. Has not thrown a single bank 1 misfire code. Literally all of my problems stem from bank 2.
The P0175 code is a rich code for bank 2. The cat on bank 2 only was glowing cherry red but not anymore, since somehow I got it to quit throwing the P0175 code through my efforts I feel.
So far I have moved coils around bank 1 and 2 and even bought a new one to do this with and no change to misfire codes (p0305, 0308, 0316) changed plugs w/ NGK iridium gapped to .48-50, checked for fire at each plug and definitely have fire, changed to brand new Motorcraft O2s, tightened bolts that were loose around exhaust manifolds (there were like 5 total that weren't tightened all the way 2 on one side 3 other). Took the manifold off checked gaskets, checked out golden, checked intake runners and they all opened just fine but were gunked up with oil it looked like, but I am going to recheck to see if something broke somewhere still on the mechanism that actually moves the rods, cleaned intake up decently along with injectors individually best I could, listened with stethoscope on each injector and they're firing, dumped snake oil ass injector cleaner in just to "help". Cleaned the maf sensor w/ maf cleaner and wiped throttle body clean (which definitely was not dirty enough to cause issue but still cleaned it them) I have checked the harness that connects to all the sensors, injectors, coils, etc... for visible damage and found nothing that really seems to be a problem, at least from what I could see without taking it completely out. Checked fuses. Changed the oil which was actually low at the time of the change so I was concerned about that so did compression test later explained. I have checked for vacuum leaks, changed pcv valve, have made sure air intake is all connected with no leaks, and just anything that makes sense with vacuum, air in, and out, between intake to cats, just haven't done smoke test yet. Got to this point then changed out what Ford calls the Engine Air Shut Off Control which is just the intake runner solenoid on the back of the intake manifold and it is still throwing Cyl 5&8 misfire codes and the P2022 for high voltage to runner solenoid.
***note*** I found it interesting the passenger side catch can didn't have but probably like 2 or 3 Oz of oil in it but the oil was like not even on the dipstick, so filled it with about half a qt and it showed up... Then filled it to max. I changed the oil shortly after seeing if it made any change to the way the car acted and ran, but no change. So I'm wondering if the driver side valve cover vacuum line to the intake, whatever it has inside the valve cover, is not functioning properly? There was definitely oil in the intake. Maybe my catch can sucks too idk but it didn't appear to be plugged or anything like that. Took it off though and have the stock hose now. Nothing changed. This engine has always guzzled oil though like alot of coyotes and I'm an idiot for not checking it more regularly I already know y'all are gonna grill me on that if I even get any answer haha.
I realize I am just throwing parts at it rn but been hard to get an appt with Ford and I need this car running asap.
Background on car, ran e85 through it for most of its life with headers and JLT Lund tuned (probably around 35k-40k miles) which is why I have done most of what I have done as I understand e85 isn't the best on plugs, sensors, etc... And they pertain to possible problems with what I'm dealing with. It has right at about 52k miles so I still have the power train warranty but I'm also not sure how they even go about power train issues since I'm obviously out of the bumper to bumper, but still trying to get with Ford regardless.
The car had a new shortblock replaced at 9k miles so I know they were back there probably destroying the harness so at this point I'm leaning toward electrical issue with that harness, but went ahead and did a compression test letting the car lope like an LS and misfire to full temp, not good I know but hell idk what else to do. I held the throttle body open manually and tested all cylinders on bank 2 and they all read anywhere from like 180 to 220 psi and I'm pretty sure I did it right but that was the first time for me so not entirely sure. Read cylinder 1 to see and it was in line with the others.
Radiator fluid is full (I've seen where having lower fluid levels create idle issues)
I am aware of the VCT issues with these cars and have seen Alejandro Flores video on Gen 3 VCT and my intake and exhaust cams are reading 20 and 0 like they should. I suppose it could still somehow be a solenoid or phaser though? I bought a new cam position sensor and installed it in both places on bank 2 and nothing changed so I don't think sensor. I could grab a VCT solenoid but damn it's just throwing another part at it.
All of this is why I am leaning toward the harness being garbage.
Smart gentlemen assemble and help please!!!
I have been dicking with this for a week or more all around work and have had little time so I have probably forgotten something else I tried so ask me anything!
If you read all this I sincerely thank you for your time!
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