Misfire at high rpm

[Spikertg]

2018 base GT 6spd manual
TSP 1' 7/8 long tubes catless
N2MB WOT BOX
Ben Calimer stage 1 Mt-82
Centerfource SST
Pmas intake
Oil separator
clutch line
PBD e85/93 tuned

Problem:
Hi, I am slowly going insane trying to figure out why this is happening please help. Experiencing a miss or timing reduction at higher rpm (mostly above 4k) but random. This problem happened on a leisurely drive where the car started to stall and kept entering limp mode with the wrench light, so I assumed plugs, drove it home and did plugs and it changed to only under high rpm but no limp mode. Besides the clutch and flywheel 2,000 miles ago nothing including the tunes has changed or acted up on the car for months, and nothing like this. Always happens if I get on the gas, the car seems normal but sluggish and breaks up. NO lights on the dash indicating a miss or anything while it happens, tried with traction on and off and unplugging the relay by the air filter same result. the car just got a counterforce clutch and flywheel a month prior, the problem didn't occur until the day after the first night I drove the car hard.
Also, I have a few codes but most of them go away on my normal tunes the most common two are P0630
and U0422 ( did research and found those are usually related to a rear gear change and mine are stock and have not changed in my tunes.) The car had a P0315 code but I got rid of that with a crank relearn, occasionally the car will show a service advanced track screen on the dash after flashing but always goes away.

Attempted solutions:
I didn't do the crank relearn until after this problem started but it did do away with the crank error code( P0315) otherwise no help. I thought the WOT box might have had a wire loose but I not only resoldered and checked every connection for it, but I also disabled it and the problem is still here.
I just did a new set of NGK plugs thinking that was the problem but it did not help, even pulled them out again and checked the gap (.054) and spark on each one.
I have some logs of this problem it looks like the car is dropping timing from 30+ degrees normal to at most -5 when the miss or power cut occurs.
I also noticed "throttle angle actual "is fluctuating in the log when this happens, so I removed and cleaned my throttle body and checked connections, also cleaned the MAF with the correct cleaner with no change.

As usual, tuners are being no help so any input is appreciated, can attach what logs I have.

Sponsored

 

[NGOT8R]

How long has the WOT Box been on your car and how did you disable it for your test (install jumper wire from red wire to orange wire)? Do you have a clean grounding point for the WOT Box ground wire (sanded down to bare metal)? Did you insulate the wires well after the install? I know the instructions say not to cut the wires, but I cut mine and then soldered them, because it was the only way to install heat shrink tubing for a good watertight seal.

 

[Spikertg]

I have had the WOT box in my car for over a year, yes the wires are all properly insulated and grounded, I checked every connection. Also to disable the features to make sure the box isn’t causing a fault all you have to do is press the button on the box once and the light turns off making it a pass through.

 

[NGOT8R]

I have had the WOT box in my car for over a year, yes the wires are all properly insulated and grounded, I checked every connection. Also to disable the features to make sure the box isn’t causing a fault all you have to do is press the button on the box once and the light turns off making it a pass through.

Oh okay, that’s good to know. I’ve heard other WOT Box users say if the box fails the car won’t start without using a jumper wire. Pressing a button as you’ve indicated is much easier.

 

[Spikertg]

Ok update, I went ahead and pulled the crank position sensor and sure enough there is metal shrapnel from my old clutch on it, and given that the sensor is magnetic and sensitive I assume that would most likely be throwing it off.
However, since I did a crank relearn while it was messed up after reinstalling it the car goes into limp mode every time I start it because it takes extra time to crank getting a mess of crank sensor and rpm lights on the dash. So no matter what tune I flash the car has a rough idle and is in limp and will not let me do a crank relearn because the car won't even rev to what the process requires.

 

[NGOT8R]

Sorry to hear that you’re having issues with the crank relearn. You said it didn’t matter which tune you flashed the ECM with; does that include the stock tune file as well? Have you tried disconnecting the battery for a few minutes and opening the doors on the car? When my car went into limp home mode from a throttle body issue, I would have to disconnect the battery to get it to come out of LHM. Maybe that’ll work for you as well. It’s worth a shot anyways.

 

[Spikertg]

Yeah Right now I have the stock intake back on it and stock tune, it takes like 3-5 seconds of cranking for it to start and then instantly goes into limp, tried resetting KAM memory, and the battery disconnected same issue. With the car in limp mode, there is no way for me to do a crank relearn so I'm at a loss.

 

[Spikertg]

Update, after ordering a new Crank position sensor and ensuring that it is in correctly (when putting it back in you can put it in crooked even if the bolt is tight) I successfully got it to relearn and the car is fine.

Sponsored