Mickey Thompson ET Street R vs. R Bias vs. S/S

Jay-rod427

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SS’s here no qualms even on marginal prep with high stall converter, and zero suspension work. 1.6-1.62 60’. 28” sr radials up front. Drives down the highway like a dream. Bias tires, well they won’t drive like a dream... hopefully find out this weekend how they do with boost!
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bluebeastsrt

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Ready to be mounted and ready for some warm weather here in Indiana
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Bout to see what that blower can really do now.:like:
 

jhatley7

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You street r guys, are you leaving them on the car 24/7? left mine on for a week in the trailer and had very minor flat spotting. Also what PSI for daily ish?
 

Tommy V

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You street r guys, are you leaving them on the car 24/7? left mine on for a week in the trailer and had very minor flat spotting. Also what PSI for daily ish?
I keep.having the same problem with street ss,around 70 to 80 mph it shakes pretty good
Could be out of balance from spinning on the rim also,but when i.first take it out after sitting for over a week i can feel flat spots.They seem to get better after about 10 to 15 miles of driving.
 

18 Smoke

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You street r guys, are you leaving them on the car 24/7? left mine on for a week in the trailer and had very minor flat spotting. Also what PSI for daily ish?
I have had mine on 24/7 for the last month or so. I’ve only driven it about a half dozen times because of the shitty weather. I leave them set at 30psi and drop them to 20 when I plan on making a hit or 2. Back at 30 when I pull back in the garage. Haven’t had any flat spotting
 

gimmie11s

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I missed the March deal posted above.

Anyone know of any deals this month in ET Street R’s?
 

gjpundsack

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Roxie in AZ uses M/T Street R's (305/45R17) on 10" x 17" JMS Avenger wheels on the rear and the 28" Sportsman on JMS Avengers 4.5" x 17" in front. Roughed the bead on the rims and used Permatex high-tack for mounting on the rears. She's hooking good.
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stang17

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I just switched from 28x17x10 Hoosiers to 305/35/17 ET Street R radial. Only made two passes with the ET Street R and did terrible. 1st pass was 21 psi pre 2nd gear burnout and resulted in a 2.7 60ft leaving off the WOT Box 2 step set to 3500rpm and side stepping the clutch. 2nd pass I dropped the psi down to 16.5-17 psi and did a 2.0 60 ft using the same launch technique. It looks like MT suggests about 13-14 psi, so I'll drop them down again next visit. I also think the WOT box at 3500rpm is a little too much for my current setup.

I opted for the Hoosier Bias Plys from the get go as a ton of people were saying radials will break MT cars and to stick with a bias ply for safety. Even with the Hoosiers set to 19 psi running front skinnies, the sway was more than I was comfortable with. Additionally, the Hoosiers weren't DOT, which would prevent me from doing the local Friday night street legal drags.

So far on the 180 mile round trip to the track, ET street Rs ride great. No sway at all with 17 psi in the rear. It's nice to drive to the track at 30psi, air down, race, air back up, and drive home all on the same tire set up.
 

80FoxCoupe

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Hard road to hoe trying to make the radials work on a stick shift car.
 

Dark Pony

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Hard road to hoe trying to make the radials work on a stick shift car.
Sorry to bring this back from the dead, but why? I don't know to much about what tires to run with what transmission? What does it matter? Why is one better or worse than another based on transmission?
 

80FoxCoupe

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Sorry to bring this back from the dead, but why? I don't know to much about what tires to run with what transmission? What does it matter? Why is one better or worse than another based on transmission?
Speaking in consideration to drag racing, radials need good surface prep and smooth application of power. Generally speaking a street type hydraulic throw out bearing equipped manual transmission will not apply power smoothly. Especially when power adder's and twin disc clutches come into play. Once traction is lots with a radial, it's gone and not coming back. Slicks are more forgiving and traction will return after it's lost.

Automatics put power to the tire smoother due to viscous coupling (torque converter). All cars will be quicker with a radial, if you can make it work. Lots of fast manual cars do run radials, but manage power is some form or fashion. Traction control, slipper clutch or clutch control device.
 

Dark Pony

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Speaking in consideration to drag racing, radials need good surface prep and smooth application of power. Generally speaking a street type hydraulic throw out bearing equipped manual transmission will not apply power smoothly. Especially when power adder's and twin disc clutches come into play. Once traction is lots with a radial, it's gone and not coming back. Slicks are more forgiving and traction will return after it's lost.

Automatics put power to the tire smoother due to viscous coupling (torque converter). All cars will be quicker with a radial, if you can make it work. Lots of fast manual cars do run radials, but manage power is some form or fashion. Traction control, slipper clutch or clutch control device.
Thank you for your explanation!
 

Furious18

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80foxcoupe said it well.
Drag Radials with a manual car= broken transmission.
 

80FoxCoupe

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80foxcoupe said it well.
Drag Radials with a manual car= broken transmission.
Likely outcome of a manual s550 with radials is simply no traction. I'm the event of wheel hop, parts can def break.
 
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