Matt's pursuit of Suspension and wheels

[shogun32]

So after a couple days of doing the front shocks are finally installed. The rears will have to wait for another day since the incorrect (or incredibly sloppily) spacer needs to be replaced.

Fortune Auto claimed the shocks were valved for 450lb/in but I am running 250lb/in. I started out with 8 clicks out (1 turn) from closed but after a couple of "woah nellie" moments due to unhelpful chassis movement I tightened by 3 to -5 out but then I started to get some hobby horsing. Pulled over after bombing thru some back roads and backed off 1 to -6.

If a mere 250lb/in spring requires turning the rebound up near max there is NO WAY IN HELL this valving can properly deal with a 450lb/in spring let alone anything higher. No offense but based on experience so far FA's "we spent a lot of time optimzing" is questionable at best. And I could tell that just looking at the sweep graphs they provided me per previous post. This is a common problem with people who start with shitty suspension. They add massive spring which significantly reduces piston motion speed and stroke distance. As a result it conceals just how bad the valving really is.

Based on 855-890lb front corner weights (ed. something smells about those numbers - @TeeLew got some actual numbers?) I figured a bit over 2 inches or so of spring preload would suffice. But we observed 2 inches of sag and that takes up a MUCH needed inch of suspension travel. as long as I stay out of the bump stop the compression stroke is reasonable on everything short of the nasty bumps like what you get hitting recessed man-hole covers deeper than 1 inch. On those you get a cringe-worthy bang and a sensation that my rim just took the impact. That's because currently I only have 1.5" worth of travel (before bumper) in the system. Need to add at least 20mm of preload (total will now be 3") and based on the pic I probably need to add a couple turns of ride height.

So compared to the front Steeda dual-rate springs this setup definitely allows the CG to move around a bit. But there is no brake dive worthy of the name, at least at public road speeds. I can see why people like the DR springs if you equate lack of chassis movement with 'confidence' and 'grip' in energetic side to side transitions. But the bumping-around is definitely annoying after a while. The FA solution felt like it might have less ultimate grip but is easier to read the car. But also doing testing at 40F on public backroads is not a very repeatable environment.

The slow-speed compression can defintely be increased the (digressive no less) rebound feels rather odd. I have spring sets in 200, 350 and 450 sitting in the wings but I'm definitely going to have to re-valve these things correctly. Grrrr.

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[shogun32]

Spent 5 hours scratching backroads and apexes north of Culpepper figuring out the dynamics of the FA dampers. Settled on -4 clicks as the workable setup as delivered and on the 250lb/in springs and the Steeda dual-rate spring in the back with the Pro-Actions. So it's a bit of an odd-duck.

I have to come clean @SteedaTech the Pro-Action with Dual-rate springs up front is just plain better at all aspects of handling and driving dynamics. Except highway use. I would add a few shims to the rebound stack since the adjuster is very close to limits. I also have Pro-Actions in coil-over config and plan to marry-up a 275lb/in spring with the Eibach bumpers for approximately the same characteristics that the dual-rate springs provide but at a different stroke position. I will probably go to a straight-rate rear spring as well.

I provided feedback to FA for what good it will do, and am prepared to re-valve these to fix the poorly conceived damping. The car nose simply isn't stable in a long arc and transitions abruptly (extends too fast) when unwinding onto a straight. Don't get me wrong, they are far from 'horrible' and for people whose benchmark is PP1 or stock GT, they are considerably improved over those sad sack dampers. But at $2000/set they really should be valved better.

If you don't want to spend Ohlins or JRI money, I think the Pro-Actions are a very good choice but marry them up to straight-rate springs and get the 'dual rate' feel using the Eibach bumpers.

 

[TrackMustang]

Just got my car back from Performance by Jax who handled the installation of a laundry list of upgrades. Fantastic fellow and a clear lover of Mustangs. He has an eclectic set of customers - saw a 1955 Ford Ranch today that had been retrofitted with a recent Cobra dash and drive line, by Jax.

This was the workorder:

• Whiteline differential bushing
• BMR IRS brace with bushing lockouts (CB762, CB010)
• use Steeda alignment bushings (Delrin) to fill IRS cavity
• Steeda spherical bearing into lower control-arm
• Steeda rear vertical link (Polymer)
• Steeda k-brace
• Baer 2-piece rotors (lightly used)
• Bullitt brake calipers (red, from OP Mustang)
  • Ford/Ferodo DS2500 pads (OEM)
• Steeda brake lines - flush/replace brake fluid with Motul 600
• Steeda front swaybar
• Steeda end-links
• Steeda roll center correction control arms
• Steeda pre-assembled Pro-Action shocks with dual-rate springs
• Steeda Tri-Ax shifter with bracket and transmission 'bushing'
• Borla/Ford 'street' exhaust with black tips
  • wrap 'diamond' bends before and after differential with Heatshield Armor
  • install Steeda H-pipe instead of Borla resonator
• BMR jacking rails
• Steeda clutch spring assist

I think that came out to around $3500 in parts.

I just installed the tri-ax short throw on mine as well and it seems to have a bit of an issue. When the shifter is in neutral there’s a bit of resistance and small throw laterally to get into 1/2. The throw is a bit bigger, much smoother and less resistance going into 5/6. I’m curious if it needs break in, if that’s normal, or if I messed something up…? How is yours?

 

[shogun32]

When the shifter is in neutral there’s a bit of resistance and small throw laterally to get into 1/2.

AFAIK that's normal since at rest it should be at the 3/4 position. But you probably want a 2nd opinion.

 

[TrackMustang]

AFAIK that's normal since at rest it should be at the 3/4 position. But you probably want a 2nd opinion.

Cool, I reached out to them and am waiting to hear back, just wanted to know if anyone else had a similar issue. Thanks-

 

[13GetThere]

Gotta keep an eye on this.

 

[TrackMustang]

For anyone wondering I had the shifter support bracket installed backwards. TJ@Steeda connected me with John who immediately said check that or the O-rings (which were good) and sure enough the bracket was backwards. Took longer to jack the car up than it did to fix it. Quick test shows 100x better-

 

[shogun32]

Here's a quick collage of the wheels I have to pick from. There are some gold FLowOne in 20x10 not pictured. Some of them are available for sale. PM me.

19x9.5 Konig

19x10 FLowOne F2, also 19x11, 18x11, and 20x10 in bronze.

TSR 20x10 (for sale, $1200)

MRR M600 20x11 (for sale, $700)

Motegi 18x10.5 - does not fit over 6-pots (for sale, $400)

MRR M600 19x10/11 set (for sale, $800)

 

[bnightstar]

Flowone looks amazing !

 

[TeeLew]

I've got some M600's like yours. I think they look better on the car than in the box.

 

[shogun32]

I've got some M600's like yours. I think they look better on the car than in the box.

I don't have enough cars...

 

[TeeLew]

I don't have enough cars...

Regrettable...

 

[bnightstar]

If a mere 250lb/in spring requires turning the rebound up near max there is NO WAY IN HELL this valving can properly deal with a 450lb/in spring let alone anything higher.

Isn't that supposed to work backwards of what you are describing 450 lb/in spring will settle faster as it's stiffer than 250 lb/in so you will need less rebound for 450 lb/in than 250 lb/in to stop oscillation ?

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