higdominator
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- 2016 GT PPP
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I recently installed a set of long tube headers from www.longtubeheaders.com. These headers are made by the same great folks over at CPe. I'm going to review the fit and finish here and describe some tricks or tips, rather, for long tube install on the S550.
My next installment will be sound clips of these headers followed by a final installment: the dyno. Dyno is set for March 11 but I am working to get something in prior to that. I have pulled my Sniper intake and LU-47's so I can run these with just a Lund Flex tune on E85 (stock CAI).
So, why should you care about these headers when there are a ton of choices?
1- They are truly made in the U.S.A. Some people might scoff at that over saving a few bucks, but it matters to some. I also appreciate American companies making parts here. I'll stop here before the soap box gets tall.
2- These things are top notch quality. So much so that I would put them against any header for fit/finish. Speaking of which, lets talk about those items!
Finish- These headers are 304 stainless. Unlike every single brand, they are not "raw" stainless and they don't have a ceramic or painted on coating. They call it their Titan finish. It's a matte finish that does not rub off/flake/chip/etc. If I had to guess I would say that it's some sort of surface etching that leaves a pristine and stunning- not kidding, they look gorgeous- finish.
Fit- Perfect. 100% direct fit. No rubbing, not "close". Dead. On. I will continue fit with fitment, aka install ease. The flanges have all the top bolt holes slotted. This comes into play when I describe the install here in a bit.
Quality- Welds? Perfect. Flanges are nice and thick, stress reliefs cut in bottom bolt holes, top holes slotted. Every runner is hand finished with a grinder where it mates with the flange inside. No slag there to build up carbon. Connection is a ball/socket at the extensions. One shot, one kill install with no leaks. The integrated merge collector spike is a final detail that everyone likes to take notice of as well.
Right about now you are probably wondering what they cost. Website has them at $1343.64, but it's always best to call and get the best pricing. Are they worth it? In my personal comparison with other headers I would say yes.
Before I get it to the dyno I will say that I have a pretty good seat of the pants idea of what I got. My Sniper equipped car with MAK deletes made 427 WHP STD. The HP peak was up at 7300 and the TQ wasn't anything to write home about. I removed that stuff and have been running these with the stock intake. My mid-range is much fatter and I still have a strong upper RPM pull, at least as strong or stronger than I had previously...until about the typical 6500 RPM. I plan to put a Sniper back on later and see how much this thing really shines. Caveat- I went with 1 3/4" primaries. Mainly because my car is a track car and never will see a power adder. These are more than enough.
So about header installs. I have access to a lift so these were a walk in the park. My suggestions would make a lift install go by in about 4 hours if you work straight through and don't take breaks to try and figure out rear brake cooling ducts, rear diffuser ideas, or the best way to route brake cooling ducts from the front grille (accomplished BTW).
1. 15MM Ratcheting box wrench with a flexible head.
2. 15MM Ratcheting box wrench with a flexible head.
3. 15MM Ratcheting box wrench with a flexible head. (get it?)
4. Take out the battery box. Unless you have super skinny forearms (hit the gym?) this will make getting the front PS nut MUCH easier when using 1,2, or 3. It takes 10 minutes.
5. Electric ratchet.
6. Take the 10mm nut off the electrical connection at the middle rear of the intake. Remove the plug and slide that over the metal bracket towards the front of the motor. Now you don't have to panic about breaking it when raising the motor.
7. You don't need to raise it that much, just enough to slip the motor mount bracket off the motor mount. Leave the mounts in the car.
8. Remove the entire u-joint from the steering shaft (after marking it) and just rest the shaft on the frame rail. No need to loosen anything else for the shaft.
9. The only nuts I took off from the top were the motor mounts and the front top header nuts on each side. Everything else is easily accessible from underneath with the 15mm ratcheting bo...
Enjoy the pics, ask questions, and stay tuned. I'm taking the car on a Mustang cruise Saturday and will be filming some good sound clips of these headers mated to a CPe/LTH full exhaust- it's wicked!
My next installment will be sound clips of these headers followed by a final installment: the dyno. Dyno is set for March 11 but I am working to get something in prior to that. I have pulled my Sniper intake and LU-47's so I can run these with just a Lund Flex tune on E85 (stock CAI).
So, why should you care about these headers when there are a ton of choices?
1- They are truly made in the U.S.A. Some people might scoff at that over saving a few bucks, but it matters to some. I also appreciate American companies making parts here. I'll stop here before the soap box gets tall.
2- These things are top notch quality. So much so that I would put them against any header for fit/finish. Speaking of which, lets talk about those items!
Finish- These headers are 304 stainless. Unlike every single brand, they are not "raw" stainless and they don't have a ceramic or painted on coating. They call it their Titan finish. It's a matte finish that does not rub off/flake/chip/etc. If I had to guess I would say that it's some sort of surface etching that leaves a pristine and stunning- not kidding, they look gorgeous- finish.
Fit- Perfect. 100% direct fit. No rubbing, not "close". Dead. On. I will continue fit with fitment, aka install ease. The flanges have all the top bolt holes slotted. This comes into play when I describe the install here in a bit.
Quality- Welds? Perfect. Flanges are nice and thick, stress reliefs cut in bottom bolt holes, top holes slotted. Every runner is hand finished with a grinder where it mates with the flange inside. No slag there to build up carbon. Connection is a ball/socket at the extensions. One shot, one kill install with no leaks. The integrated merge collector spike is a final detail that everyone likes to take notice of as well.
Right about now you are probably wondering what they cost. Website has them at $1343.64, but it's always best to call and get the best pricing. Are they worth it? In my personal comparison with other headers I would say yes.
Before I get it to the dyno I will say that I have a pretty good seat of the pants idea of what I got. My Sniper equipped car with MAK deletes made 427 WHP STD. The HP peak was up at 7300 and the TQ wasn't anything to write home about. I removed that stuff and have been running these with the stock intake. My mid-range is much fatter and I still have a strong upper RPM pull, at least as strong or stronger than I had previously...until about the typical 6500 RPM. I plan to put a Sniper back on later and see how much this thing really shines. Caveat- I went with 1 3/4" primaries. Mainly because my car is a track car and never will see a power adder. These are more than enough.
So about header installs. I have access to a lift so these were a walk in the park. My suggestions would make a lift install go by in about 4 hours if you work straight through and don't take breaks to try and figure out rear brake cooling ducts, rear diffuser ideas, or the best way to route brake cooling ducts from the front grille (accomplished BTW).
1. 15MM Ratcheting box wrench with a flexible head.
2. 15MM Ratcheting box wrench with a flexible head.
3. 15MM Ratcheting box wrench with a flexible head. (get it?)
4. Take out the battery box. Unless you have super skinny forearms (hit the gym?) this will make getting the front PS nut MUCH easier when using 1,2, or 3. It takes 10 minutes.
5. Electric ratchet.
6. Take the 10mm nut off the electrical connection at the middle rear of the intake. Remove the plug and slide that over the metal bracket towards the front of the motor. Now you don't have to panic about breaking it when raising the motor.
7. You don't need to raise it that much, just enough to slip the motor mount bracket off the motor mount. Leave the mounts in the car.
8. Remove the entire u-joint from the steering shaft (after marking it) and just rest the shaft on the frame rail. No need to loosen anything else for the shaft.
9. The only nuts I took off from the top were the motor mounts and the front top header nuts on each side. Everything else is easily accessible from underneath with the 15mm ratcheting bo...
Enjoy the pics, ask questions, and stay tuned. I'm taking the car on a Mustang cruise Saturday and will be filming some good sound clips of these headers mated to a CPe/LTH full exhaust- it's wicked!
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