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M1 has 5 miles and I did this!

qtrracer

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Thanks but similar is not the same, please post what you purchased because the adhesive on this stuff is super strong. Please read the pdf of the link I provided above:

The most important feature is the fire-resistant adhesive backing. This strong adhesive allows the film to pass the FAA 12-second vertical burn test. Withstands continuous operating temperatures (heat soak) of 500° F.

Look this is not for everyone and probably not for a daily driver. I'm doing (2) things with this car. Track day's and car shows, that's it. M1 will be on my lift more then either.

So it will be monitored, thank you.
Not here to bash another competitor's product. Just posted my experience on a street car let alone a track car. You've got the gas tanks wrapped. If you just had it on the intake I wouldn't be here warning you. Your car, your call.
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WCRookie99

WCRookie99

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Not here to bash another competitor's product. Just posted my experience on a street car let alone a track car. You've got the gas tanks wrapped. If you just had it on the intake I wouldn't be here warning you. Your car, your call.

No worries thanks for the heads up.
 

shogun32

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So, best way to reduce the heat around the Rear Diff is this. Also reduces weight, reduces repairs when being bumped by other competitors. Otherwise the stock Diff Cooler will help 95% of drivers.

UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_1883.jpg
would you happen to have a source for this? If you tune it right, it will spit blue/orange flames on the overrun.
 
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WCRookie99

WCRookie99

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would you happen to have a source for this? If you tune it right, it will spit blue/orange flames on the overrun.
That photo was taken this year at the Ford display at Woodward Dream Cruise. Car is a FP350S (I believe) which was modified with the side exhaust.

Now the first time I saw this on a unibody car was in 2014 at Long Beach GP (SCCA World Challenge Race). Below are some photos of it. The silver box in the right rear seat (of photo 3) is the exhaust cover. Totally custom.

Not exactly sure who did the FP350S but I know Leo Capaldi or Watson Engineering were involved in the photos below.

http://www.capaldiracing.com
https://www.watsoneng.com/racing/

WP_20140411_035.jpg


WP_20140411_026.jpg


WP_20140411_020.jpg


WP_20140411_022.jpg
 
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mustang5o

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Interesting. I went with doing exhaust wrap through that area and further back. It was more to avoid heat transfer into the diff which I have heard being the bigger issue with these cars
The heat wrap around the exhaust was for GT models without a diff cooler. I did the same thing and went to heavier diff fluid. On some days I use a Ryobi battery powered sprayer and leaf blower to cool the diff between sessions. One of several reasons I'm considering a Mach 1.
 

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hsteel

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The heat wrap around the exhaust was for GT models without a diff cooler. I did the same thing and went to heavier diff fluid. On some days I use a Ryobi battery powered sprayer and leaf blower to cool the diff between sessions. One of several reasons I'm considering a Mach 1.
Yeah I completely forgot the fact the Mach 1 came with the diff cooler! I wish the PP2 got that parts bin piece from the GT350. My diff temps have stayed in check with the changes you have mentioned though.
 

Rapid Red

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Ok marking the length of the x-pipe, is obviously super important and you either need two people because holding it yourself doesn’t work.

I used my transmission lift, and just pressed it against the resonator to hold it still. I loosened the front clamps to just see the gap in front which was very small. So I left a small gap (1/16in) at the rear mark point. Once market, I wrapped the exhaust pipe with electrical tape about 1/2 around as a cutting guide. I loosened the front clamp but did not remove it.

Then just cut it. By the way about 1/4 cup of water (moisture) came out of the pipes.

Haven’t started it yet, still working on other mods.
Try this on for size, veru simple very accurate .
Screen Shot 2021-09-22 at 4.31.50 PM.png


Caution, cutting pass side, the pipe can drop down, the muffle pitches up, jamming the AE plug into the body, will damage the plug.
 

Cobra Jet

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Perhaps this is a dumb question but I’d like to do this but am concerned about its affects on the warranty. Does making this change void the factory warranty on the drivetrain?
Making any changes to the exhaust won’t have any effect on the Powertrain Warranty. Powertrain covers engine, trans and rear diff components.

If modifying the exhaust, it falls under the “Emissions” warranty.

Aside from the above, if there were a Powertrain failure, despite ANY mods done to the vehcile, Ford would need to prove that Mod XYZ caused the ABC Powertrain failure.
 

ChemEng44

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@WCRookie99 were you ever able to get some video of the new sound with the x-pipe?
 
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WCRookie99

WCRookie99

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WCRookie99

WCRookie99

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But I’m expecting it to sound like this




Hahahahah
 
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WCRookie99

WCRookie99

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Hahahahah
10/2 is the date the video will be posted, hang in there.

You’re going to test all my video skills but you have one chance at this so?
A. In car video.
B. Drive by.
C. Bumper cam.
 

13GetThere

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I was never a big fan of loud exhaust. Always being content with what ever it sounded like. If it didn't add power, then it was a waist of money. I got active exhaust because that's what was on the PP2 that I found at a price I could afford. Now I drive around in sport 90% of the time.
 
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WCRookie99

WCRookie99

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I was never a big fan of loud exhaust. Always being content with what ever it sounded like. If it didn't add power, then it was a waist of money. I got active exhaust because that's what was on the PP2 that I found at a price I could afford. Now I drive around in sport 90% of the time.
Actually same here about adding power. The x-pipe adds 9hp and saves approximately 20lbs. Next will be long tube headers and a tune. Beyond that, only weight savings items and moving the battery to the trunk.

As for sound, the M1 stock sound is awesome, we’ll see about this x-pipe.
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