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Lug Nuts - OEM for the Ford GT, fits GT350/R & all Mustangs

Hack

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I've been chatting with 50Deep about his titanium lugs. Tob can also explain it very well if they see this topic. I can't relay the info, but for titanium lugs on stock studs, it's normal. Had something to do with yield and the material strength.
Not sure how you can get the proper stretch on the studs if you don't torque to the stock spec. That would make me lean away from the Ti nuts.
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Epiphany

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I like to disassemble things.
I like the looks of the Vorshlag, I find the low torque spec odd.
Vorshlag could eliminate some ambiguity or uncertainty with a more detailed explanation. They went straight to quoting a number for a lubricated joint as opposed to a typical "dry" torque figure.

Vorshlag said:
Recommended torque on the lug nuts is 85 lb-ft, using a light coating of anti-seize
I'm a fan of properly lubricated fasteners but especially in the case of wheel studs/lug nuts there needs to be more detail to minimize the typical internet yammering. Anti-seize compounds vary and as such it can be difficult to obtain an accurate, repeatable number. I highly recommend ARP's thread lubricant - a light coating at that. You can contact ARP for a figure that works best for you based on the respective fastener size and thread count.
 

TheDeadCow

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Vorshlag & OP mustang nuts have <150ft# torques due to lack of friction compared to OEM.

Vorshlag recommends anti seize as lube. Personally I'd call/email them to make sure the torque value on the website is accurate (85ft#).
OP nuts have coating on the nut itself.
 
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jacknifetoaswan

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If they're one piece & black, I'd say they were.
What Gorilla sells is one piece and black. And they're less than $50 for a set.

JR
 

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key01

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I don't know, when I look at those black Ford Performance expensive nuts they sure appear to be a two-piece nut like our OEM nuts. I could be wrong. I am just not a fan of these capped nuts and have replaced mine because I have already mangled two using a 21mm socket. Not sure where I went wrong, but 150# torque is more than any other car I have ever owned.
 

Austinj427

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I don't know, when I look at those black Ford Performance expensive nuts they sure appear to be a two-piece nut like our OEM nuts. I could be wrong. I am just not a fan of these capped nuts and have replaced mine because I have already mangled two using a 21mm socket. Not sure where I went wrong, but 150# torque is more than any other car I have ever owned.
Were they hot when you did it?

My buddy's 1LE has to cool down before you can pull the tires off. They get so soft they get stuck in the socket and deform to the point they can't be put back on.

I think be bought 10 extra and has gone through like 6 of them.
 

key01

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Good question, Austin. I definitely do a torque check at the track between sessions or at least every other session. I always wait for an hour or so after coming off track to do this. Maybe that's not long enough. I mangled them at home when I was working on the brakes. The 21mm socket just seemed to be too loose on a couple and I should have looked a little closer before I started to unload them.
 

galaxy

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I use a 13/16 socket. Always have. Works perfect. Lug never gets stuck and zero signs of damage to the outer shell.
 

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I used to remove mine with an impact, but I don’t anymore.

My theory is they are malleable enough that the impact would push material from the corners into the flats, making the socket super tight.

I had one where I went to torque it after reinstallation and didn’t realize the socket wasn’t all the way on, and the socket slipped on it.

I finally got it off with a 6 point 7/8, but it was touch and go for awhile.
 

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After reading this thread, I have a non-marring 13/16 socket on order from Spamazon. :thumbsup:
 

key01

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I’m sure I read on here that the 21mm was the right size for these lugs. Feel like a fool now. I don’t think I was able to get a 13/16 to fit. I’ll go back and check the old lugs again and see.
 

JT1

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13/16 is .8125"
21mm is .82677"

I can barely get a 21 mm on mine, but again, I used to impact them off.
 
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jacknifetoaswan

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Hey JR, upon further consideration....would you have the Gorilla Lug P/N you use? Thanks
I used Gorilla P/N 96643BDX, which is the OEM bulge style, black, all locking lugs ($110, though I picked them up for like $80 on sale). I have a GT/PP, not GT350/R. The non-locking style is P/N 61148BCX, and goes for about $60.

According to the answered questions at the bottom of the CJ Pony Parts product page, these will fit the GT350 and GT350R wheels.

JR
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