Looking to track in 2023. Anything else needed?

[bnightstar]

R18..and 300tw....is not a good combo im sorry.
With 300tw is almost ok the OEM pads.
R18 is too aggressive for the grip of 300tw tire.

Some perf street pads like GS-1 or Entry level track pads should be the go to with 300tw tires. The OEM pads not up to the task even for 300tw tire my brake pads were gone in a weekend while the tires easy outlasted them 3 to 1 or more. OEM pads are no go for the track no matter the tires unless you want to spend only on brake pads and OEM pads not exactly cheap as well.

 

[NightmareMoon]

Some perf street pads like GS-1 or Entry level track pads should be the go to with 300tw tires. The OEM pads not up to the task even for 300tw tire my brake pads were gone in a weekend while the tires easy outlasted them 3 to 1 or more. OEM pads are no go for the track no matter the tires unless you want to spend only on brake pads and OEM pads not exactly cheap as well.

GS1 is a poor choice for track. The seem to glaze at lower temps that the stock PP1 pads. I've run them for short sessions once and a while and its not a good fit. Once they're good and glazed, you may have trouble even getting into ABS.

GLOC explicitly states they don't recommend them for track use.

 

[NeverSatisfied]

R18..and 300tw....is not a good combo im sorry.
With 300tw is almost ok the OEM pads.
R18 is too aggressive for the grip of 300tw tire.

Nope… R18 kick ass in these pigs on the GT Brembos. I started with r8 then r10 then r12, and finally said eff it and threw in r18s.

2 ton car wakes up R18 at track on 285 300tw no problem. I prefer the consistent pedal feel and heat range of R18 to the other compounds.

And I never take mine out— 275 Cooper all seasons in the snow on R18’s. Just watch that first pedal application when cold!

 

[bnightstar]

GS1 is a poor choice for track. The seem to glaze at lower temps that the stock PP1 pads. I've run them for short sessions once and a while and its not a good fit. Once they're good and glazed, you may have trouble even getting into ABS.

GLOC explicitly states they don't recommend them for track use.

ok not GS1 but some entry level pads should be fine.

 

[jmagnus87]

I've been doing light track days or faster "autocross" events where speeds reach 80mph in autocross and over 100mph on track for years. I've had a great time at every single event and my car is mostly stock everywhere. All I've done is steeda tri-ax shifter (highly recommend) suitcase delete, and some of the stop the hop for street use mostly. Even removed the spherical bearing bushings in IRS because i hated them on the street. The less you stiffen the rear, the more confidence inspiring your car is factory. Tighten that stuff up and you can't feel the edge of traction as well.
Other than that, I've done the brake fluid and I actually legit run autozone duralast brakes with a lifetime warranty. I just change them every year for free. Biggest expense I've had are tires and track day insurance through Hagerty. Other than that, i go have a blast and don't care how i compare to others, just if I'm beating myself. IMO Have fun and be cheap, if it's costing you a ton, it's not fun to me.

 

[Rodpwnz]

I think that's the goal is to keep the 10's all around for just daily commuting and the first year of track. Second year having a more dedicated 11's and 305's with track tires would be ideal.

The car is also a daily driver for me for the time being (Looking at a beater next winter, but I currently have an SUV that's my dad's that I use 95% of the time) so 285's for street use feels ideal.

First, I've read through all the comments, and it makes me really happy to see all the enthusiasm, support and good advice from experienced members.

Second, it seems you are aiming for a more daily friendly dual duty track/street car? That is exactly what I did and am still currently doing.

I have 19x10 SVE SP2 square wrapped in 285 MPS4S, with a PP1 A10 magneride car. I chose MPS4S because I wanted a somewhat fast, durable and SAFE tire that I could daily rain/shine and use occasionally at track. I went 19x10 square because I was avoiding the need for extended studs, spacers and camber plates, while still having a square setup and ability to rotate tires for longevity. If I was already doing camber plates, 19x11 wheels with 305 square + extended bolts and spacers then I also would have spent more to get the ford performance magneride suspension and tuning.

However, for my needs at the time earlier on, I didn't feel the need to invest so much so quickly for track day performance. I also have a larger transmission cooler because the A10 cooling is wholly inadequate for track use, and I still need more(Working on a solution with FlyHalf). I am also definitely going to install an oil cooler as well.

Otherwise, I am tracking the car on stock everything else - OEM PP1 DS2500 pads, OEM DOT4 brake fluid, OEM grade centric blank rotors, stock IRS, stock magneride, stock camber, stock oil cooler/radiator, stock everything else. For the time being(Under 10 track days + 300TW tires), I feel have still not reached the limits of the car/tires in normal weather conditions. On hot days, I really think a dedicated oil cooler is necessary.

I had heavily contemplated everything you are considering: Magneride sport springs, Camber plates(getting soon), IRS mods, 11 inch wheels(Yes, you will need extended bolts) + 305 200TW tires, etc.

All the advice here is wonderful and spot on imo. I agree that you should go out to track in beginner group a few times to get more experience while the car is mostly stock, and then over time modify the car for the performance you want. Also, I've heard great things about the MGW short throw shifters for MT-82.

The truth I've learned is that there is always a compromise for a dual duty car, and it's up to you to decide where you want that line to be drawn - or not drawn at all!

 

[Bloodham25]

First, I've read through all the comments, and it makes me really happy to see all the enthusiasm, support and good advice from experienced members.

Second, it seems you are aiming for a more daily friendly dual duty track/street car? That is exactly what I did and am still currently doing.

I have 19x10 SVE SP2 square wrapped in 285 MPS4S, with a PP1 A10 magneride car. I chose MPS4S because I wanted a somewhat fast, durable and SAFE tire that I could daily rain/shine and use occasionally at track. I went 19x10 square because I was avoiding the need for extended studs, spacers and camber plates, while still having a square setup and ability to rotate tires for longevity. If I was already doing camber plates, 19x11 wheels with 305 square + extended bolts and spacers then I also would have spent more to get the ford performance magneride suspension and tuning.

However, for my needs at the time earlier on, I didn't feel the need to invest so much so quickly for track day performance. I also have a larger transmission cooler because the A10 cooling is wholly inadequate for track use, and I still need more(Working on a solution with FlyHalf). I am also definitely going to install an oil cooler as well.

Otherwise, I am tracking the car on stock everything else - OEM PP1 DS2500 pads, OEM DOT4 brake fluid, OEM grade centric blank rotors, stock IRS, stock magneride, stock camber, stock oil cooler/radiator, stock everything else. For the time being(Under 10 track days + 300TW tires), I feel have still not reached the limits of the car/tires in normal weather conditions. On hot days, I really think a dedicated oil cooler is necessary.

I had heavily contemplated everything you are considering: Magneride sport springs, Camber plates(getting soon), IRS mods, 11 inch wheels(Yes, you will need extended bolts) + 305 200TW tires, etc.

All the advice here is wonderful and spot on imo. I agree that you should go out to track in beginner group a few times to get more experience while the car is mostly stock, and then over time modify the car for the performance you want. Also, I've heard great things about the MGW short throw shifters for MT-82.

The truth I've learned is that there is always a compromise for a dual duty car, and it's up to you to decide where you want that line to be drawn - or not drawn at all!

I think I've boiled down to not going over the top crazy this year, and next year find myself looking to get more heavily involved.

This year will be a few track days/beginner classes with a group. The plan will be have a more cars/coffee car. Next year however I think I'm going to go full tilt.

Im kind of just putting the pieces in place this year and then gradually go full on next year. I just ended up buying my Camber plates, my Bumpsteer correction kit (Lowering 1" all around) & just doing the starter stop the hop kit for the time being. I'll see how it feels in spring and then look at possibly doing a sway bar front update if I feel I need to, or if I can wait another year.

I'm also saving up for a new exhaust setup as well so it's just a lot of money going towards the car.

 

[WItoTX]

I think I've boiled down to not going over the top crazy this year, and next year find myself looking to get more heavily involved.

This year will be a few track days/beginner classes with a group. The plan will be have a more cars/coffee car. Next year however I think I'm going to go full tilt.

Im kind of just putting the pieces in place this year and then gradually go full on next year. I just ended up buying my Camber plates, my Bumpsteer correction kit (Lowering 1" all around) & just doing the starter stop the hop kit for the time being. I'll see how it feels in spring and then look at possibly doing a sway bar front update if I feel I need to, or if I can wait another year.

I'm also saving up for a new exhaust setup as well so it's just a lot of money going towards the car.

LOL, race car problems. There is literally never enough $$$!

 

[bnightstar]

. I'll see how it feels in spring and then look at possibly doing a sway bar front update if I feel I need to, or if I can wait another year.

If you are changing springs get sway as well you need it even more with different springs than stock.

 

[Bloodham25]

If you are changing springs get sway as well you need it even more with different springs than stock.

Would I be able to get away with just getting the front?

 

[bnightstar]

Would I be able to get away with just getting the front?

Yes I run only front steeda sway the rear is OEM PP and with 515/800 springs the balance of the car is amazing with that combination. I run my on the 2nd from soft hole.

 

[NeverSatisfied]

Stay away from away bars for a bit. Just get some square 10s on 285mm 300tw and send it for a while.


again everything you are talking about will put you in cooling system hell on these cars.

if your car pushes entry learn to brake deeper.

If you want to mess with anything, get a tire temp probe and a good data logger

I’m just Running 305 RS4’
and that’s enough that I’m ~$4-5k down the rabbit hole in cooling mods plus all the hours of work because there’s no turn key off the shelf solution for these cars.

 

[bnightstar]

Stay away from away bars for a bit. Just get some square 10s on 285mm 300tw and send it for a while.


again everything you are talking about will put you in cooling system hell on these cars.

if your car pushes entry learn to brake deeper.

If you want to mess with anything, get a tire temp probe and a good data logger

I’m just Running 305 RS4’
and that’s enough that I’m ~$4-5k down the rabbit hole in cooling mods plus all the hours of work because there’s no turn key off the shelf solution for these cars.

you are not going to overheat a mustang with 200/800 springs and a front swaybar if you are just starting tracking the car. And getting onto the cooling rabbit hole I'm not sure why no one is implementing the Mach 1 or GT350 cooling setup especially the Mach 1 setup should be relatively straight forward to implement on a 2018+ PP1 car.