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Looking to track in 2023. Anything else needed?

Flyhalf

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What about CR-S for canada? Nankang.
Still a nice choice for rain too
Re71rs too
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Hey everyone,

This year, I'm looking to track my car at least a few times as a starter with my 2022 Mustang GT PP1 W/ Magneride.

I've already gone down into the rabbit hole which is looking at all the different mods for the car, and so far I've come up with so many different options, I was wondering what would be the best required ideal setup for track days.

So far what I have, or will have is as follows:

New Wheel/Tire setup: 285/35R19 Front. 305/30/R19 Rear. W/ Camber plates
Springs: Steeda Magneride Sport Springs
Brace: Steeda G-Trac Ultralight Brace
Rear Suspension: Steeda Stop the hop kit "Ultimate" kit.

At this point, I was wondering if Sway Bars/End links would be needed since I'll be dropping the car about an inch on all corners? I'm still looking to keep that Road drivability, while just having the ability to begin tracking a few days per year.

Is anything else suspension wise required?
Brakes, tires, and upgrade the brake fluid, dot 5.1 or better temp rating. As the brake fluid, which is also clutch fluid heats up, and the trans heats up you are going to have to slow your shifts down. Or you will get lockout, 2nd & 3rd especially. I upgraded the fluid and put in a braided steel line, it helped but you still have to watch. I would also upgrade the chassis, g-track up front and stop the hop kit in the rear. Makes the stock suspension work better.
 
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Bloodham25

Bloodham25

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Brakes, tires, and upgrade the brake fluid, dot 5.1 or better temp rating. As the brake fluid, which is also clutch fluid heats up, and the trans heats up you are going to have to slow your shifts down. Or you will get lockout, 2nd & 3rd especially. I upgraded the fluid and put in a braided steel line, it helped but you still have to watch. I would also upgrade the chassis, g-track up front and stop the hop kit in the rear. Makes the stock suspension work better.
Already have the G-Trac Ultralight Brace downstairs. Didn't think about needing the K-Brace as I've seen the Ultralight be good enough.
 

bnightstar

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this is what I'm planning to get for next season, but I do have a set for really wet conditions at this point:
1673984686748.png
I run AR-1's and super happy with them very sticky I know something like A052 is faster but in Europe not available in 305/30/19 only 295/35/19 not a big deal but hard to find and expensive. If you are after cheap semi's I think Federal now have 305/30/19 option which should be much cheaper than AR-1's. Not sure how the AR-1's will wear as I only have 20 or so laps on them. IF you are getting AR-1's make sure your brakes are on par I had a lot of trouble with GLOC R10's with this the R10's are not enough to lock the tires and the heat created is enough to overheat the R10's in less than 2 laps on my local track. A lot of my track friends who switched to AR-1's complain about brakes performance on different cars so you need great brake pads for this tires.
 

tosha

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I run AR-1's and super happy with them very sticky I know something like A052 is faster but in Europe not available in 305/30/19 only 295/35/19 not a big deal but hard to find and expensive. If you are after cheap semi's I think Federal now have 305/30/19 option which should be much cheaper than AR-1's. Not sure how the AR-1's will wear as I only have 20 or so laps on them. IF you are getting AR-1's make sure your brakes are on par I had a lot of trouble with GLOC R10's with this the R10's are not enough to lock the tires and the heat created is enough to overheat the R10's in less than 2 laps on my local track. A lot of my track friends who switched to AR-1's complain about brakes performance on different cars so you need great brake pads for this tires.
thanks for advise. I'm on R10's as well and different pads are already in the plan. just need to decide between R12 and R16 😄 . my home track is not hard on tires, so I would expect AR-1's to keep well and they will likely heat cycle out before physically wearing out. I've been driving on RS4's, these tires are indestructible and great for learning, but I feel that the time has come to uplevel the grip)))
 

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bnightstar

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thanks for advise. I'm on R10's as well and different pads are already in the plan. just need to decide between R12 and R16 😄 . my home track is not hard on tires, so I would expect AR-1's to keep well and they will likely heat cycle out before physically wearing out. I've been driving on RS4's, these tires are indestructible and great for learning, but I feel that the time has come to uplevel the grip)))
I will be switching to R12's for the moment. And see if this will be enough pad. Don't have access to RS4's in Europe though.
 

WItoTX

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Couple quick points. You say for year one, you want rims and tires, specifically 10" wide rims and 285's. In year two, if you want to go to 305's, you are going to need new wheels again, or you will pinch down a 305 pretty quickly. My suggestion is go wide on rim size for the first set. I run a 305 on an 11.5" rim, admittedly its an RT660, which is wider than most 305's. But still, I would go wider than a 10" rim so I can stretch a 305, and buy once, cry once. Apex has great rims for your car, at a "reasonable" price, especially for flow formed/rotary forged (whatever you want to call them) wheels. And they offer group buys throughout the year.

Second, I could be wrong, but isn't a 35mm offset is going to poke out the back like crazy? I have 56 mm offsets, and mine are flush. I run 56 mm offset with a 32mm of spacer in the front. Did I miss something in another post where you confirmed a 35 mm offset will fit the rear? Again, I am likely totally wrong, but something seems wrong about a 35 offset in the rear.

Year two. Sway bars/Sway bar end links. Look at something like FTB end links, as the Steeda end links, with their grease zerks, will hook your magneride wiring. I had that problem myself.
 

tosha

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You say for year one, you want rims and tires, specifically 10" wide rims and 285's. In year two, if you want to go to 305's, you are going to need new wheels again, or you will pinch down a 305 pretty quickly.
the more I think about @Bloodham25 approach, the more I like it. he could use 10 rims set as daily for street tires once he moves up to 305's. stock 255 fronts on PP1 are a joke even for street driving, and 285 square would be ideal setup for street. so, it's not totally waste of money.
Second, I could be wrong, but isn't a 35mm offset is going to poke out the back like crazy?
Rears:
1674058459608.png


Fronts:
1674058532987.png
 
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Bloodham25

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the more I think about @Bloodham25 approach, the more I like it. he could use 10 rims set as daily for street tires once he moves up to 305's. stock 255 fronts on PP1 are a joke even for street driving, and 285 square would be ideal setup for street. so, it's not totally waste of money.

Rears:
1674058459608.png


Fronts:
1674058532987.png
I think that's the goal is to keep the 10's all around for just daily commuting and the first year of track. Second year having a more dedicated 11's and 305's with track tires would be ideal.

The car is also a daily driver for me for the time being (Looking at a beater next winter, but I currently have an SUV that's my dad's that I use 95% of the time) so 285's for street use feels ideal.
 

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Flyhalf

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Oh..dont forget the tow hook!
This is the ZL1 ADDONS GT4.
Zl1addons is the best for these things.

PXL_20230117_001344749.jpg
 
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Bloodham25

Bloodham25

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Oh..dont forget the tow hook!
This is the ZL1 ADDONS GT4.
Zl1addons is the best for these things.

PXL_20230117_001344749.jpg
I have the ford "safe and smart package" which I wish i didn't have as it's a pain in the ass looking at grilles. I think I've settled on the cervinis.
 

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My only issue of course, is I don't want to necessarily negatively affect overall daily ride quality. I'm not sure if I should just go for the sway bars, and keep the springs I currently have, or go after the other springs.
If that is the case I would stop modifying the car for track use.
 

NeverSatisfied

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All these upgrades sound great but as you add mechanical grip you also increase average engine load %.

With some of the setups described in this thread, you’ll be in axle, or calculated engine oil temp Derate in no time as you become a faster driver.

As a few have suggested, I’d stick with 300TW 285’s, throw camber bolts in front cranked for max camber, gloc r18 pads, motel 600 fluid, and send it for a while. I assure you, you’ll have a blast, learn a ton, and enjoy 20 minutes sessions without headaches.
 

Flyhalf

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All these upgrades sound great but as you add mechanical grip you also increase average engine load %.

With some of the setups described in this thread, you’ll be in axle, or calculated engine oil temp Derate in no time as you become a faster driver.

As a few have suggested, I’d stick with 300TW 285’s, throw camber bolts in front cranked for max camber, gloc r18 pads, motel 600 fluid, and send it for a while. I assure you, you’ll have a blast, learn a ton, and enjoy 20 minutes sessions without headaches.
R18..and 300tw....is not a good combo im sorry.
With 300tw is almost ok the OEM pads.
R18 is too aggressive for the grip of 300tw tire.
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