Looking to buy ‘68 Mustang Fastback

[EJS2016]

I am a very serious buyer for ‘68 Mustang Fastback.

Do any forum members have reliable and credible contacts/resources/information regarding cars for sale in the SE USA region?
A solid and straight, rust-free fame and body is much important than a running car as the engine, transmission and rear will be replaced anyway...unless an S code(390)/R code(428) car is located.

Thanks for any and all leads...much appreciated!,

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[Strokerswild]

Depending on your budget and end goal, a new Dynacorn body might be the ticket....

All rust-free fastbacks are bringing good money these days.

 

[EJS2016]

I mentioned this option to a local builder and his response and opinion was that Dynacorn body was missing many important panels and small pieces that it’s not really very helpful.

My budget is around $65K for a high quality driver...408 stroker, 4R70W with floor console, AC, IFS with discs, power rack and pinion and sway bar, modified stock type rear suspension with discs, stock exterior with all optional chrome trim and maybe the CJ hood scoop.

I’m not interested in purchasing any Eleanor/Bullitt clones or Shelby tributes.
Nothing wrong with them...just not my thing.

Thanks for your interest and reply!

 

[Cobra Jet]

The best folks to assist and answer your question will be over on this site (I’m a member there too):
https://www.vintage-mustang.com/

Lots of great, knowledgeable folks who will steer you in the right direction AND tell you what to look out for when buying a Classic Mustang.

Don’t swing your budget around vocally, as some sellers will try to take advantage of you by scams, lies and deceitful tactics. Classic Mustangs are big money makers to those looking to make a buck and run...and those type of people prey on folks who are not Mustang savvy and don’t know what they’re looking at (besides a “car”). Also don’t let your emotions get in the way, as that’s the worse thing any buyer of a Classic car can do...

Be certain that you run the VIN through the numerous online decoders to be certain you’re getting a true genuine factory V8 Mustang, not a rebadged or rebodied 6cyl. Know where all of the VIN stampings on the body shell are as well. I say this because if you’re able to drop good money on a Classic, it better be a genuine born V8, otherwise future resale will sink you if you were misinformed or scammed into a rebadged Mustang - it happens more frequently than everyone thinks...

If you’re unsure of what to look for in a Classic, take along someone who knows what to check - not just VIN, but also to check for hidden rot/cancer, shoddy repair work (floors, frame, torque boxes, trunk pans, etc), chassis issues or incorrect driveline. Anyone can tell you or claim the engine is that 408 stroker you seek, but is it really internally?

Also so you know, Marti reports for Mustangs are available for all from 1967 forward. Don’t let anyone tell you otherwise and that type of documentation is not available for the 1964-1966’s.

Watch out for some of the large “warehouse consignment” stores - if you find something of interest at a place like those stores, do your due diligence and research their credibility and other customer statements - GOOGLE is your friend. There are quite a few of these places that are known to have vehicles where they look great in pics, but in person aren’t equal to the asking price of those wonderful glam shots.

eBay has had a good selection of 68 Mustangs, but again, do as much research on your potential purchase as you can before parting with your hard earned money. Ask questions on that above site, take pics and have others give their advice, etc.

Look at such vehicles in bright daylight, sunlight or very well lit garage/storage facility so that you can see or find any flaws outside, inside and under the vehicle.

You’re not talking about dropping $8k-$10k on a project, or $20-$30k on a restored “driver quality”, so you’re $65k will be a large sum of money to lose if you get taken... for a 1968 Mustang fastback rotisserie restored nut to bolt, true S-code 390, $45k-$50k is average pricing. $65k is getting you into a rotisserie with additional owner added mods or in the realm of a resto-mod.

I completely agree with you regarding the Dynacorn bodies as well as the “Eleanors”...

 

[EJS2016]

Cobra Jet,
Thanks so much for your interest and taking the time to write such a thorough and informative reply...and I am in strong agreement with absolutely everything you’ve stated.

I’ve been in contact with a couple of reputable local builders and contacts within the local classic Mustang community.
Lawrence Booth of Booth Mustangs, LLC - he doesn’t have a website, but has been quietly building/restoring concours level Mustangs in Cumming, GA for 25+ years.
He still has the ‘68 CJ Fastback he bought at 17. He is keeping his ears open for a ‘68
Chris Agee of Chris Agee RestoRacing - builds Ford products only - his shop was recognized in Hot Rod Magazine several years ago.
3 years ago, he found what he called a “good” ‘68 to begin my project...then my wife decided she wanted to move, and I got the ‘16 GT instead. He is also his resources to locate another ‘68.
I’ve also put the word out to several ‘65-68 Shelby guys I’ve met at local car shows, including one who works at Summit Racing who also owns a red ‘68 Fastback with a blown, street legal, 500+ cid pump gas 460...it’s for sale, but way too radicle for me.

So the issue seems to be finding the “right” car in the “right” condition.
I’ll be doing my best to locate cars locally, as I have serious reservations buying online and unseen.
Rust rot/decay of the frame rails, floor pans, torque boxes, cowl area, door jambs, rocker panels and rear quarters are major areas of concern and would identify a no-go.
I would never make a purchase without the inspection and insight of very knowledgeable expert/builder.
I wish I had the hands-on/mechanical skill set to do some part of this project!!

You have your pulse on the market for the S code Fastbacks and I appreciate your analysis and pricing insight.
If a factory S code car was located, I’d have great reservation doing any modifications beyond suspension/exhaust/other bolt-on type upgrades.
But then again, as long as the original/NOS/factory-correct parts are retained and an be reinstalled, I’m OK with that plan.
The other plan is the 408W type build mentioned in post you responded to.

I’ll search out the car in the best condition available and take it from there.
And I will join vintage-mustang.

 

[Strokerswild]

Like I said, it depends on your end goal.

Driver/show car that's largely original? Hardcore restomod? Strictly strip car? Road race car?

I mentioned the Dynacorn bodies with the last three in mind since originality is out the window. You'd be money ahead with that versus a patched-up original in any of those scenarios and can buy whatever you want for underpinnings. Remember, '60s Mustangs aren't the most structurally perfect vehicles out there since they're a flimsy pile of spot welded sheetmetal, even in more or less pristine form - less so if there's ever been any rot. If you're looking for an original car, always buy the best one you can afford to start with.

My brother went through all this with a relatively hardcore '69 Boss 429 clone/restomod in mind; it will look like an original at a glance, but modernized and improved throughout. He pondered a Dynacorn body, but found a very solid, 28,000 mile 6-cylinder fastback out east for like $16K. Nice car and all, but still ~50 years old and needing a pile of work and cash infusion. Based on what I've observed so far with that project, I still think he would have been money ahead to start with the aftermarket body since it's clean and 100% solid to start with, and would save the time of stripping the shell bare and fixing the hidden stuff, not to mention the intended upgrades. Either way, it will be an amazing car finished...just an example of end goal.

If you want an actual original 390/428CJ car, that's entirely another ball of wax. Cobra Jet's comments apply there. Marti reports are king, and check all VIN stampings, build sheets, etc.

 

[EJS2016]

Strokerswild,
To answer your question about the end goal/purpose of the car:
High quality driver/mild restomod...will take it to shows.

I truly appreciate your comments regarding your brother’s 69 Boss 429 project.
Does he have an original Boss engine?

Based on the condition of the car I eventually purchase, all options regarding body integrity and degree of repair required will be considered and evaluated.

Ultimately, I will purchase the best Fastback car I can find, S code or 200 six.
I suspect an R code will out of my price range, but whatever I find, it will be built to perform like one.

Please keep me in the loop regarding your brother’s build.
Feel free to PM me.
Thanks again

 

[Strokerswild]

No original Boss engine for my brother's project. He'll be using the block seen in this pic with John Kaase Boss heads in either a 514 or 521 CI displacement.

(The engine in the pic was originally slated for his Factory 5 Cobra until he decided to go with Coyote power for it. Eventually the heads and induction will be used on another big block and will end up in his '70 Fairlane. For now it's a nice ornament in my shop.)

 

[Strokerswild]

Ran across a pic of the car, paint is original (faded and thin) Calypso Coral....solid fastbacks are still out there!

 

[garagelogic]

It’s not a ‘68, but I have a 1965 fastback that I am selling. If anybody wants more info, you can PM me.

 

[EJS2016]

Going to check out a GT 390/C6/bench seat car tomorrow afternoon.
Wimbledon White with a Marti report.
Fingers crossed it’s a solid car!

 

[Grimace427]

I'm in northern VA and I recently put up my 1967 fastback for sale.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/1967-mustang-fastback-for-sale.112417/

 

[EJS2016]

Per Marti report:
Factory GT 390/C6 car, Wimbledon White, turquoise interior, bench seat, fold-down rear seat, factory a/c, ps & pb, 3.00 open diff, tinted glass.
This is a go!!

 

[EJS2016]

Update:
Not a go!!
A internet VIN searched revealed that the car was stolen out of state in 2013.
Too good to be true
May the buyer always beware.
So, the search continues...

 

[Grimace427]

Wow! Has the proper owner been notified?

I had a lot of out-of-state interest in my '67 and am now currently negotiating with a friend of my boss who lives in Luxembourg.

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