Looking to add a sub to base Radio 2019 GT

Superspirit

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I was going for that route with forscan (doing research so far) but received the key amp and keyloc unexpected as a gift so I can't return it unfortunately.
I'm not saying dont use them, they will work fine. I'm trying to persuade the use of forscan to flatten the output of the stock head unit to that of an aftermarket. You will get a far better sounding system by doing so. Just flashing the acm to give you the flat eq curve completely changes the system in these cars. Even with factory speakers the sound is greatly improved.





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Xzavior1818

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I'm not saying dont use them, they will work fine. I'm trying to persuade the use of forscan to flatten the output of the stock head unit to that of an aftermarket. You will get a far better sounding system by doing so. Just flashing the acm to give you the flat eq curve completely changes the system in these cars. Even with factory speakers the sound is greatly improved.
Okay I gotcha and I believe you 100 percent. I don't get why these car manufacturers are making things harder for us to do. I'd really like switch out to a pioneer head unit if it didn't involve replacing the whole bezel trim and ac controls to aftermarket. I also cant see myself paying the extra money to upgrade to the touch sync system and still having to forscan it just to use for aftermarket. Makes me wonder how it's gonna be in the S650 SMH
 

Superspirit

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Okay I gotcha and I believe you 100 percent. I don't get why these car manufacturers are making things harder for us to do. I'd really like switch out to a pioneer head unit if it didn't involve replacing the whole bezel trim and ac controls to aftermarket. I also cant see myself paying the extra money to upgrade to the touch sync system and still having to forscan it just to use for aftermarket. Makes me wonder how it's gonna be in the S650 SMH
I feel you, I don't like the aftermarket choices in these cars either. With a little work though you can make the oe system sound really impressive.
 
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Xzavior1818

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When I get time I'll just pull the kick panels and check for available space, and check fuse location 5 and 27 to see if its hot. If not either can work out then I'll just build a amp rack out of mdf in the trunk where the spare tire compartment is and run 9 conductor (speed wire) from dash to trunk, along with some ofc 4 gauge with distribution block. I'll update in a few weeks as this isn't high on my priority list.
 
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Xzavior1818

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Update : Got around to making a drop in amp rack, found a location for the 4 channel amplifier. Got some 9 conductor "speed wire" to run to the radio. 4 gage ofc wire for the run to the back to supply both amps. Hopefully will have it all done by this weekend. Goal is to show no amps or wires just the sub box. Also did this without drilling or glueing into the car. If you have any questions let me know!

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Xzavior1818

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Finally done, Sounds great with the Kicker key 200.4 on the stock speakers. Sounds almost as good as my infinity kappas in my other vehicle. The Kicker key loc cleans up the factory radio signal as well and makes it sound good on my 8 inch sub (gain matched around 800 rms tuned to 32hz) Now it doesn't sound like crap! Here's some more pictures of the build. I had issues with the amps cutting off completely so i wedged the terminal on the side of the adjustment block. If your pulling at least 80 amps and running into issues, hooking it up to the bolt is not feasible because of the anti corrosive plating not giving you full contact. This will remedy it. I also used a drywall tap to mount my fuse holder using a hole in the strut tower. All in all, I did this install without cutting or drilling the car and wire harnesses. If you have any questions just ask.

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MegaG

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I had issues with the amps cutting off completely so i wedged the terminal on the side of the adjustment block. If your pulling at least 80 amps and running into issues, hooking it up to the bolt is not feasible because of the anti corrosive plating not giving you full contact. This will remedy it.

I also used a drywall tap to mount my fuse holder using a hole in the strut tower. All in all, I did this install without cutting or drilling the car and wire harnesses. If you have any questions just ask.
Thanks for the tip on the terminal, another option is to grind off the coating and then once bolted cover with a light coat of Dielectric grease to protect it from corrosion.

When you say drywall tap, I assume you meant anchor? This gives me idea of maybe using a Rivnut here. I will have to look into that, may be easier then mounting to the firewall brace.
 
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Xzavior1818

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Thanks for the tip on the terminal, another option is to grind off the coating and then once bolted cover with a light coat of Dielectric grease to protect it from corrosion.

When you say drywall tap, I assume you meant anchor? This gives me idea of maybe using a Rivnut here. I will have to look into that, may be easier then mounting to the firewall brace.
Yes I meant anchor! I used it because its a non conductive material. Very easy to remove as well. Also used them to mount my 4 channel back by the BCM in the trunk.
 

GMONSTAH

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Great build! I just did the wiring this weekend and had no trouble with the battery terminal. I'm still messing with my gain, but have my low pass set to 50hz. I have stock fronts and nothing on rear deck.

I'm now contemplating what component speaker set can I get up front to seriously drive it home. Any ideas? I'm currently leaning towards JL C2's.
 
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Xzavior1818

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Great build! I just did the wiring this weekend and had no trouble with the battery terminal. I'm still messing with my gain, but have my low pass set to 50hz. I have stock fronts and nothing on rear deck.

I'm now contemplating what component speaker set can I get up front to seriously drive it home. Any ideas? I'm currently leaning towards JL C2's.
I'd look into focal audio, some of the best money can buy.
 

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