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Looking for How-To on removing front turn signal housing
Patio208
GT350 Member
I'm surprised Diode Dynamics didn't release a video specific to the Shelby. Considering that they shot a promo for these lights that featured a black Shelby. But as stated above, should be pretty standard across all models plus or minus coolers. Let us know how your install went and post pics of your busted up hands when done
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Wine dude
Well-Known Member
I don’t think they are correct about needing to remove the splitter, although mine is the tech package so only the oil cooler was the issue, a little groping around to get around it and all went smoothly, my arm looked like I went 2 rounds with the neighbors cat, just needed to detach the inner fender liner and turn the wheel, pretty straight forward
mike.s
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 24, 2016
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post results. i have these bulbs too but havent had time to mess with it
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Stoked
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #9
Well...I did it. Took 6 hours. My hands do definitely look like I was mauled by a Honey Badger.
I sacrificed two screws to the Splitter God.
Two others I left off. Screw that. The way I had to contort my body to get them out is something modern science will be
Investigating for years to come....
Finally we tech guys have something on the track pack guys. Only one cooler to worry about...Glad I did this before I added that trans cooler.
I'll figure out what I did and add some tips soon. I need to soak in a hot tub and cry for a while.
I sacrificed two screws to the Splitter God.
Two others I left off. Screw that. The way I had to contort my body to get them out is something modern science will be
Investigating for years to come....
Finally we tech guys have something on the track pack guys. Only one cooler to worry about...Glad I did this before I added that trans cooler.
I'll figure out what I did and add some tips soon. I need to soak in a hot tub and cry for a while.
Wine dude
Well-Known Member
We are talking about the switch back front signal lights correct?
I never removed my splitter, just the wheel well covers and did the rest lying on by bsck and contorting myself, ripped off some skin and I was done.
The one had the most trouble with was the glove box light, couldn’t get the angle of the bulb lined up, I just popped out the whole socket and did it.
The side red lights weren’t too hard once u figured out where the clip was.
The forth brake light needed the car on a lift
I quit before I did the headlights refused to take off the front bumper etc
I never removed my splitter, just the wheel well covers and did the rest lying on by bsck and contorting myself, ripped off some skin and I was done.
The one had the most trouble with was the glove box light, couldn’t get the angle of the bulb lined up, I just popped out the whole socket and did it.
The side red lights weren’t too hard once u figured out where the clip was.
The forth brake light needed the car on a lift
I quit before I did the headlights refused to take off the front bumper etc
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Stoked
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #11
These are the Diode Dynamics units. The smoked ones in particular.
Here's what I did:
1) Remove both inner wheel tubs.
2) Unscrew all of the screws surrounding grille and light fixture. There are two along the side of the bumper that must also be removed.
3) There are two screws that hold on the little "sail" piece just under the light itself. This has to come out first to get the light assembly itself out.
4) If you have a tech, on the passenger side, once the sail piece is out the light assembly will come out from the back. You can then replace the light housing with the new one. From there its simple re-assembly.
5) On the oil cooler side, loosen the top and bottom bolts of the cooler and push it (gently) aside. Remove the screws as you did on the other side. The trans cooler duct is "hooked" on the bottom. You won't get it out unless you remove the cooler completely. You don't need to however, just loosen it. There are three screws on the inner side that are almost impossible to see. This is where the contorting comes in. Basically wedge yourself in there on your hands and knees (might as well pray while you're there, you'll probably need it) and look to your left. With light, you'll see them. Use a 7mm long socket with about a 6" extension to remove them.
6) Once these are out, same as before, remove the sail piece. I forgot to mention, there are two small tabs on either side. They're stiff, and you'll likely break them. Be patient or like me, just snap the little bastards off, the screws hold it in anyway.
7) The light housing can be unscrewed and manipulated out from the front while the housing is loose. Just be careful with the bumper. Replace and reassemble.
Have fun! It looks great when it's finished...
The rear side markers are cake. simple tabs and it's done. No need to raise anything.
The 4th brake light was easy for me (I have a tech). I raised the back a little and it took about an hour. The worst thing was getting the red wire into the socket.
Next up...when it gets warmer, I have the vinyl overlays to do on the tails and 4th brake light.
Here's what I did:
1) Remove both inner wheel tubs.
2) Unscrew all of the screws surrounding grille and light fixture. There are two along the side of the bumper that must also be removed.
3) There are two screws that hold on the little "sail" piece just under the light itself. This has to come out first to get the light assembly itself out.
4) If you have a tech, on the passenger side, once the sail piece is out the light assembly will come out from the back. You can then replace the light housing with the new one. From there its simple re-assembly.
5) On the oil cooler side, loosen the top and bottom bolts of the cooler and push it (gently) aside. Remove the screws as you did on the other side. The trans cooler duct is "hooked" on the bottom. You won't get it out unless you remove the cooler completely. You don't need to however, just loosen it. There are three screws on the inner side that are almost impossible to see. This is where the contorting comes in. Basically wedge yourself in there on your hands and knees (might as well pray while you're there, you'll probably need it) and look to your left. With light, you'll see them. Use a 7mm long socket with about a 6" extension to remove them.
6) Once these are out, same as before, remove the sail piece. I forgot to mention, there are two small tabs on either side. They're stiff, and you'll likely break them. Be patient or like me, just snap the little bastards off, the screws hold it in anyway.
7) The light housing can be unscrewed and manipulated out from the front while the housing is loose. Just be careful with the bumper. Replace and reassemble.
Have fun! It looks great when it's finished...
The rear side markers are cake. simple tabs and it's done. No need to raise anything.
The 4th brake light was easy for me (I have a tech). I raised the back a little and it took about an hour. The worst thing was getting the red wire into the socket.
Next up...when it gets warmer, I have the vinyl overlays to do on the tails and 4th brake light.
HotLap
Well-Known Member
Hey all, I did the LD switchback bulbs a few weeks ago and the trick is to remove the front wheel and the front half of the wheel well liner attaching pins/tabs and you can easily reach in to change out the bulbs. I was able to replace the turn signal bulbs w/o removing the wheel, but couldn't get the side marker lights out. Just remove the front half of the wheel well liner fasteners, remove the wheel and fold the wheel liner back and you have access to the bulbs...good luck!!
DocWalt
Well-Known Member
I got a set of these for Christmas and I have a ZL1 tow hook to install so I'm just pulling the bumper and doing both at the same time. It looks to be way easier than dealing with the oil/trans coolers.
