Looking for an oil filter socket for the FL500S. Thx.

[Elp_jc]

Hey gang, I'm at 950+ miles, and want to do the first oil change around 1K. But just realized the space to remove the filter on my Bullitt (with a front belly pan) is very limited, so probably impossible to use my plier-type oil filter wrench. So need a socket wrench that can hopefully withstand the abuse it will endure with a factory filter, because they're always tight as hell.

I only found 2 that are not dual-size (those are crap), both obviously 76mm x 30 flukes: Lisle 61650, and Steelman 06127. Couldn't find a specific review for a factory FL500S, but other reviewers said they failed with factory filters in their sizes, hence starting this thread. If any of you removed the factory filter successfully with a socket wrench, please post a link .

Finally, the factory filter is not an FL500S, but does it have the same 76mm x 30 size on top? Hope so. Thank you gang.
JC

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[ice445]

Just use your hand, the factory filter wasn't that tight at all. If you want to have a wrench on hand, any claw type will work. The factory filter is the same dimensions as the FL500s but just shorter for some reason.

You have the drop down access door, right?

 

[SAY WHAT]

i use this https://www.amsoil.com/p/filter-wrench-76-mm--ga251/?code=GA251-EA It should be the same size for the ford filters.

 

[Elp_jc]

Just use your hand. You have the drop down access door, right?

Really? It'd be the first time in my life that a factory filter wasn't tightened by a gorilla. Ha ha. The one on my ex-2018 F-150 was tight as hell. Even semi-destroyed the filter with my powerful plier-type wrench, which was in a very awkward position. Yes, my car should have an access door, since the belly pan is below it, but don't know the size. You need quite a bit of space to be able to use the pliers. Want to buy a socket, and the pliers are as a last resort.

I use this. It should be the same size for the ford filters.

Well, yes, and no. Ha ha. It's the same diameter (76mm), but wrong number of flukes (76x14 vs 76x30). So wrong socket for the FL500S.

 

[bluebeastsrt]

Go to autozone and get something like this for 3 dollars.

 

[Elp_jc]

I already ordered the Lisle 61650 thru Amazon the other day, since I want to change the oil now (just shy of 1K miles). It should arrive Sunday. It should work fine. But thank you for posting those 2 other options above. I've seen the first one before, and for some reason, doesn't look too effective to me. But the last one looks interesting, and should definitely get the job done... although probably making a mess. Ha ha.

 

[b058038]

Here is a quick comparison. Steelman on the right, Lisle on the left. You can see that Lisle puts the wrench plate on the outside of the unit which extends the length a bit compared to the Steelman. Steelman puts the wrench plate on the inside. Both are based on the same design of 76mm with 30 flutes. The fit is snug on both units. I prefer the Steelman for the more flush fit and ease of getting a wrench attached, can be purchased direct here:
https://www.rakdistribution.net/oil-filter-cap-wrench-76mm-by-30-flute

 

[Elp_jc]

You can see that Lisle puts the wrench plate on the outside of the unit which extends the length a bit compared to the Steelman.

Interesting; thank you. My Lisle should be here tomorrow. Didn't know about those differences, but I agree with you the Steelman design is better; hope the longer Lisle is not an issue with my car. Both seem to have the same 6 tack welds, which I hope are strong enough. The factory filter is usually tightened to hell and back, so once it makes it with that, future ones should be cake.

 

[drjeff]

Here is a quick comparison. Steelman on the right, Lisle on the left. You can see that Lisle puts the wrench plate on the outside of the unit which extends the length a bit compared to the Steelman. Steelman puts the wrench plate on the inside. Both are based on the same design of 76mm with 30 flutes. The fit is snug on both units. I prefer the Steelman for the more flush fit and ease of getting a wrench attached, can be purchased direct here:
https://www.rakdistribution.net/oil-filter-cap-wrench-76mm-by-30-flute

Thanks for this! Just ordered

 

[CS19]

Nice part of these type of wrenches is you can use a torque wrench and torque the filter to spec.

 

[Michael_vroomvroom]

Nice part of these type of wrenches is you can use a torque wrench and torque the filter to spec.

What is the torque spec on the GT 5.0?

 

[CS19]

What is the torque spec on the GT 5.0?

Funny that I looked it up last year, but have forgotten. Can't find it at the moment.

 

[jacknifetoaswan]

I can't get any of those wrenches into the oil filter area with enough room to turn a socket wrench. I use a phillip's screwdriver and a rubber mallet to pierce the canister, then let it drain. After that, I use the screwdriver to unscrew the filter. The filter goes back on, hand tight.

JR

 

[kz]

I can't get any of those wrenches into the oil filter area with enough room to turn a socket wrench. I use a phillip's screwdriver and a rubber mallet to pierce the canister, then let it drain. After that, I use the screwdriver to unscrew the filter. The filter goes back on, hand tight.

JR

Why not use an extension ? By socket wrench I assume you mean a ratchet... It is easily doable.

 

[jacknifetoaswan]

Why not use an extension ? By socket wrench I assume you mean a ratchet... It is easily doable.

The PP belly pan and the positioning of the filter at an angle has never made it easy. I could potentially get something up there (and yes, I did mean a ratchet, though if using a K&N filter, there's a nut on the end), but it's just easier and cleaner to poke a hole in it. That serves two purposes.

Try an awl, it goes in easier with the pointed tip.

I start the hole with an awl or a small phillips, then expand to a larger phillips to drain faster. I usually poke a secondary hole to allow air into the filter, as well.

JR

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