Let's talk IRS upgrades on a near stock car

[Rental18GT]

Suspension hasn't ever been my strongest point of understanding, especially IRS stuff. That being said, I've had my car to the track a few times, once on street tires and twice on drag radials. I have never encountered wheel hop at the track or on the street with this car. Coming from a front wheel drive turbo car, and a manual trans 2011 Mustang GT, I definitely know what it feels like. The one time I raced it on street tires, it would chirp two or three times and proceed with very little drama. I have had the car on a lift a few times and verified that the rear suspension is unchanged from OEM parts. From now on I will be using proper tires at the drag strip so that is not an issue. My best 60' times are 1.90 on 305 drag radials and 1.98 on 235 street tires.

I guess my question is, is how will any suspension modifications help my car? It does not spin or wheel hop at all at the track. Is it a moot point until I start adding power, or is there a possibility it will help my 60' times even though I'm not having any issues?

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[Strokerswild]

Cradle lockout should be your first suspension mod, IMO.

 

[Rental18GT]

Cradle lockout should be your first suspension mod, IMO.

I will look into that. More curious of how it will help a near stock car that doesn't seem to have any issues, at the moment.

 

[LSchicago]

I went with Steeda's stop the hop starter kit before I had any wheel hop. I managed 1.87 60' bone stock on P Zeros.

 

[Coyote Chase]

With your tire size (on 17" wheels) and 400 RWHP, it was recommended to me to switch to 3.55 gears and add BMS drag springs (front and back).

 

[Rental18GT]

With your tire size (on 17" wheels) and 400 RWHP, it was recommended to me to switch to 3.55 gears and add BMS drag springs (front and back).

Do you mean BMR by chance? I am probably going to leave the gearing alone for right now, I will do a tune and bolt on stuff before I change that. It seems that once it has all the typical mods that most people like to stick with the 3.15s.

 

[LSchicago]

With your tire size (on 17" wheels) and 400 RWHP, it was recommended to me to switch to 3.55 gears and add BMS drag springs (front and back).

I have 3.55's, which is a big reason I went so tall with the tire. It brings it close to a 3.31 ratio in comparison. I wouldn't go with BMR drag springs at all. They ride harsher than Steeda's drag springs, and either brand will drop the car half an inch requiring the spacers to fit these tires.

 

[Coyote Chase]

I have 3.55's, which is a big reason I went so tall with the tire. It brings it close to a 3.31 ratio in comparison. I wouldn't go with BMR drag springs at all. They ride harsher than Steeda's drag springs, and either brand will drop the car half an inch requiring the spacers to fit these tires.

Most of the guys I race with, run the same tire (28" x 10.5") and gear (3.55) as you! And with good success, no wheel hop and very little tire spin.
I've been told, it's a good setup for S550 Mustangs in the 400 whp to 600 hp range. Above that, they have problems with wheel spin.
One racer who is pushing 800 hp, improved his launch and 60' by changing from 3.55 to 3.31 gears.

 

[LSchicago]

Most of the guys I race with, run the same tire (28" x 10.5") and gear (3.55) as you! And with good success, no wheel hop and very little tire spin.
I've been told, it's a good setup for S550 Mustangs in the 400 whp to 600 hp range. Above that, they have problems with wheel spin.
One racer who is pushing 800 hp, improved his launch and 60' by changing from 3.55 to 3.31 gears.

Yes, I had too much spin with the "28"" tires (27.4" actual) and went with "30"" tires which are 29.5" actual. Far less wheelspin with the taller tires.

 

[shogun32]

I got rather vicious wheel-hop without trying that hard. PS4S or Cup2 at less than optimal temps no less.

Yes, I had too much spin with the "28"" tires (27.4" actual) and went with "30"" tires which are 29.5" actual. Far less wheelspin with the taller tires.

side-wall deformation for the win.

Fix the chassis (bushing inserts/replacement, braces) and shim the diff bolts.

 

[LSchicago]

I got rather vicious wheel-hop without trying that hard. PS4S or Cup2 at less than optimal temps no less.

side-wall deformation for the win.

Fix the chassis (bushing inserts/replacement, braces) and shim the diff bolts.

Already have the STH kit. Adding the diff brace soon.

 

[Rental18GT]

Has anyone installed any of these parts on a car that didn't have traction issues and notice an improvement in their short times? I guess an example would be, a car that hooks and does a 1.8x or 1.9x 60', then they install better parts and it drops the 60' .05-.1?

 

[LSchicago]

Has anyone installed any of these parts on a car that didn't have traction issues and notice an improvement in their short times? I guess an example would be, a car that hooks and does a 1.8x or 1.9x 60', then they install better parts and it drops the 60' .05-.1?

Not me. Even adding drag radials didn't help until I added more power.

 

[Coyote Chase]

Has anyone installed any of these parts on a car that didn't have traction issues and notice an improvement in their short times? I guess an example would be, a car that hooks and does a 1.8x or 1.9x 60', then they install better parts and it drops the 60' .05-.1?
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[beefcake]

if your having 0 issues, then theoretically you don't need anything.

track won't always be on point for no prep or wheel hop though

ultimate stop the hop or one of our bmr packages help, drag springs, viking shocks and struts, etc..

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