Let’s talk about the H word - heatsoak

Discussion in 'Forced Induction - 5.0L V8 Engine' started by Blown_90LX, Feb 20, 2018.

  1. Blown_90LX

    Blown_90LX Active Member

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    #1 Blown_90LX, Feb 20, 2018
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2018
    Hey Guys,

    I’m serioisly looking at S/C kits for the 2018. My last blower car had a lot of heat soak with a Vortech. Looking for something to provide fairly consistent power and don’t want to have to swap-in different heat exchangers, etc.

    I’m looking to hear from folks with either Edelbrock, VMP, or Roush/Ford Racing blowers about first hand experience regarding heat soak on the street.

    Not looking for another Centri blower and have no interest in a Whipple, so please just folks running the blowers I mentioned earlier.

    Thanks!
     
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  2. WhiteyDog

    WhiteyDog WOOF!!!

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    I haven't experienced heat soak with my Roush/FRPP on the street. I haven't taken it to the 1/4 strip, yet. 170degree thermostat, Lund tune, Kook's headers, VelossaTech big mouth and full open hood vents. So far, I've had no problems with anything with this thing.
     
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    Blown_90LX

    Blown_90LX Active Member

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    Thanks Whitey! So you can beat it up with a few back to back hits on the street and there’s really no drop off in power? How much boost are you running?
     
  4. WhiteyDog

    WhiteyDog WOOF!!!

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    Not that I've noticed. Mine is the stock system with 85mm pulley, but was told that the headers may possibly drop boost a little, so I'd say 7- 7.5lbs? But, I just bought a K2 filter and an 82mm pulley that I'm going to have Lund check out so I'm not running out of injector, so my boost will go up, some. VMP makes a nice kit with a triple pass heat exchanger with fans.
     
  5. WhiteyDog

    WhiteyDog WOOF!!!

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    But keep in mind, I'm in Pennsylvania. We get hot days and humidity (to me), but nothing like the southern boys and the Texans. I looked into the VMP triple pass heat exchanger with fans with Shaun at PBD just for fun because I like to fool with stuff, but he said for me it wasn't needed for the boost I'll be pushing with the smaller pulley. He said if/when I hit 12-13lbs or so, then it wouldn't be a bad idea to upgrade. And let's face it, he could've easily pushed the VMP just to make a sale, so his honesty was appreciated. I bought my K2 filter and K2 pulley from them. Nice guys.
     
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  6. robwlf

    robwlf Well-Known Member

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    same i'm roush phase 1 for now .. i do some spirited driving :).. so far ive been ok.. i removed the hood liner, and the rubber around the back of the hood. im open air box as well i get high air temps but they drop fast soon as i start moving as to be expected running open ..
    as whitey said we get some crap hot days but nothing like down south.but i havnt had a prob thus far and im still on the roush tune which is conservative
     
  7. yonson

    yonson ...

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    I have an Edelbrock 2650 on my F-150 and the only time I've noticed any heat soaking is if you run it hard for a while then let it sit for 30 minutes then try and run it again. Even then on a 1/4 mile run the MCT only climbs 15 degrees (F) from starting line to finish line... So the intercooler still works quite effectively it just happened to start at 130 degrees instead of 100 - 110ish...
     
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  8. Jeff's FRC

    Jeff's FRC Well-Known Member

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    Centri guys will tell you PD blowers heat soak so badly that after the first run they're done for and wont run strong until the next morning when they're cold again...lol

    My Whipple car with the old standard H/E and no fans doesn't seem to lose a step between pulls. It also put down the most power on the third consecutive dyno pull which shocked me.
     
  9. BoostedBen

    BoostedBen Well-Known Member

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    I can vouch as I have the VMP heat exchanger, it's wonderful even in the FL heat.
     
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  10. Boduke0220

    Boduke0220 Well-Known Member

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    Get the basic vmp kit, add a PNR trunk mount ice tank and the whipple oversized heat exchanger and that will be the absolute best setup you can run next to a killer chiller
     
  11. WhiteyDog

    WhiteyDog WOOF!!!

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    I don't know where the OP is located, but with that set-up you mentioned, he should be able to run a 1/4mile strip in the African Sahara. :lol:
     
  12. Bluustang71

    Bluustang71 Active Member

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    My whipple car was the same.. most power on the 3rd dyno run. I was impressed by the size of H/E with the kit. I will see in summer lol
     
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    Blown_90LX

    Blown_90LX Active Member

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    Hey Guys,

    Thanks for the great feedback. Sounds like it’s not a huge issue. I do live in the South so I’m trying to plan for those 98 degree regular summer days.

    I’m really digging the upcoming Edelbrock kit. I like the idea of using a trunk and/or Underhood water system like BoDuke said like the PBH Ice cell. Anyone know how that plumbs in to something like the Edelbrock or similar kit?

    Also, anyone ever use a water injection system like the one Snow makes to either spray the heat exchanger or even directly into intake tract? Saw the new BMW had a factory water injection system that was good for an extra 50 horse due to cooling effect.
     
  14. Boduke0220

    Boduke0220 Well-Known Member

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    Lmao, better safe than sorry!!

    I've seen a few people use meth/water but most go E85 fuel. Most tuners won't tune for the meth so you'd have to run a smaller jet so it would mess with the a/f id imagine, but I could be wrong.
     
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  15. racingmason

    racingmason Well-Known Member

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    My Kenne Bell billet case gets hot enough to cook an egg but my IATs are 40 over ambient.
     
  16. GreenS550

    GreenS550 Well-Known Member

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    I had a Roush tvs2300 on my '11 stick. I put 25K miles on it. Took it to the DS multiple times and would race it 1/4 mile over and over again at test and tune. Once it was 93 degrees. The times were consistent. If there was any heat soak running 1/4 mile times 5-10 minutes a part I was not aware of it. Just ran consistent. Fantastic performance. It's why I am doing the LMS 675 Magnuson kit as it is very similar to the Roush.

    I had a Vortech as well air/water intercooler but never took it to the track. It was cool sounding but a bit more finicky for me at least. And no instant torque.
     
  17. Whipple SC

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    Cooling the heat exchanger with water doesn’t do a lot, the BMW uses air to air which has a much better conversion rate when adding cooling to the surface, especially nitrous.

    Ice tanks are great but you have to be extremely cautious of getting air out of the system since the tank is lower than the intercooler. Most ice tanks have a simple fill cap, which is not great for pushing air out.
     
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    Blown_90LX

    Blown_90LX Active Member

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    Thanks, I appreciate the solid insight. Glad I asked and didn’t dump money into a custom h2O sprayer if the gains would only be marginal. The ice tank trapping air pockets will warrant some consideration too...
     
  19. Whipple SC

    Whipple SC Well-Known Member
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    The Watson tank that replaces the battery is better for daily drivers, although I'm not sure its still available. Trunk mount is best for racing. Also, trunk mount requires larger pump or dual pumps because the pressure loss with long lines is not ideal. The Watson setup was the highest point in the system so it burped itself, the trunk is super lower so they are a pain to bleed.
     
  20. SVT-DADDY

    SVT-DADDY World's heaviest S550

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    I always think when talking about heat soak we focus too much on IAT and not enough on CHT.

    Seems more effective to keep the whole motor/everything under the hood cooler with cooling mods, than to try to fight HE by keeping the air charge cool.

    I mean isn't heat soak really when the motor, blower...everything has gotten so hot that the car can no longer keep temps in check without pulling timing or worse?
     
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