Let’s make my car 60’ quicker (a10 Paxton)

[GuardGT]

Hey fellas,
Finally got my 18 to the track (stupid covid) and it did... decent. Long story short the night prior I got everything dialed on pump/torco (using dragy) and then threw Sunoco 260gt plus for the track and the car was .5 slower 60-130, afr was out of wack with the highly oxygenated fuel and the car wasn’t happy. Won’t make that mistake again, but I wasn’t trying to break any records, just wanted to get the car shook down so the wife can track it.
Now for the issue at hand:
Suspension is all stock base gt with the exception of bmr cb005s. MT ET street S/S at 18psi cold, 305/45/17s.
Racked off consistent 1.74 60’s all day, loading the converter until the car pushed through the brakes and backing off till it held (around 1900-2000rpm). No wheel hop(car has never hopped), didn’t spin much off launch but was spinning a few feet out once it was in boost. Should I try flashing it and see if that’s better?
What should the first suspension mods be that will help my CURRENT setup? I know BMR suggested a whole gaggle of pieces, and they will probably eventually all be on the car. But for the time being, what do yall suggest I start with? Springs, vertical links, camber lockouts, It’s braces and toe rods are in my radar, but I’m not sure where to start.
Thanks in advance guys

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[SolarFlare]

Well, first and foremost 260gt plus has a stoich of 13.7. Although close, I can see it throwing off AFRs. Next time try 260gt (non plus) or MS103 which are very close to pump gas (E10). You can likely get a little more out of it 60ft wise but not crazy. I managed consistent 1.63s with stock converter and procharger. What gears? 3.55s would help. With the shorter gears also make sure your car revs out first gear to 7500ish, if its too low below that you can begin to shift to 2nd before the 60ft mark which can slow you down. Tuner can likely add a little timing down low if you use a torco or race gas mix, you have to stage shallow (meaning trigger first light then move forward at a snails pace til second barely triggers), next would be weight, skinnies, brakes, battery, no fluid in the washer reservoir, no engine cover, hell no sway bar if you want to go all out, as much weight off the nose as you can. Then work on technique, find what the car likes, mine didn't like it footbraked that high so I bring the RPms up slowly to about 1200 rpm and them smash the gas and get off the brake.

 

[GuardGT]

Well, first and foremost 260gt plus has a stoich of 13.7. Although close, I can see it throwing off AFRs. Next time try 260gt (non plus) or MS103 which are very close to pump gas (E10). You can likely get a little more out of it 60ft wise but not crazy. I managed consistent 1.63s with stock converter and procharger. What gears? 3.55s would help. With the shorter gears also make sure your car revs out first gear to 7500ish, if its too low below that you can begin to shift to 2nd before the 60ft mark which can slow you down. Tuner can likely add a little timing down low if you use a torco or race gas mix, you have to stage shallow (meaning trigger first light then move forward at a snails pace til second barely triggers), next would be weight, skinnies, brakes, battery, no fluid in the washer reservoir, no engine cover, hell no sway bar if you want to go all out, as much weight off the nose as you can. Then work on technique, find what the car likes, mine didn't like it footbraked that high so I bring the RPms up slowly to about 1200 rpm and them smash the gas and get off the brake.

thank you for your input. I was supposed to run ms109 or the gt260, but it wasn’t available in my area so I hoped the plus would work and it kinda backfired. Won’t be making that mistake again.
It’s a 3.15 rear gear, which doesn’t help. I did stage super shallow, and creeped a little while I was trying to load it up/pushing through the brakes. I’m definitely not used to running a stock auto car, I’ve only ran my stick cars before. I’ll try leaving off idle and a 1200 load up next outing and report back.
I might bite the bullet and get a converter, but that’s gonna mean suspension to match. I’ll start with vertical links, irs braces, camber lockouts(try to get it close to zero degrees), and some of the LCA and toe link solid bushings and see if that helps.

 

[SolarFlare]

You can try a shorter gear, I’m sure someone would straight up swap you for a 3.55. You can give that a try first.

 

[bluebeastsrt]

If your willing to spend a few bucks. A torque converter will cut a few tenths for sure.

 

[GuardGT]

If your willing to spend a few bucks. A torque converter will cut a few tenths for sure.

Yeah, a converter is on the shopping list, just gotta wait for the budget to allow it. Unfortunately I’m also building a sbf/88mm/t56 67 mustang so convincing the wife I need to drop 2k into the daily on top of the race car... is a hard battle. She’s all for it, but she’s smart with our money(me... not so much).
I did some weight reduction this weekend and ordered bmr bumpers, vertical links and springs. Figured 100lb drop and a few suspension pieces should help next time out. I’ll mess with tire pressure more and see if dropping it helps too. Next track day is 6/26 so I’ve got some time.

 

[Jhonda]

What were your times and trap

 

[GuardGT]

What were your times and trap

1.74 60’, 6.78@110 1/8th, 10.35@138 1/4. 1300da, and as I said At the track the car was .5 slower 60-130 than the night before testing on pump/torco, so I’d fully expect it to be a bit quicker next time out with the right fuel.

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