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damships

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Don’t rely on the vehicle loan being paid off same day; my prior 2016 was not and many who have gone through a RAV BuyBack have reported the same that the actual “paid in full” from RAV is usually delayed.

That does not mean you will be impacted at all as far as financial credit score or delay of completing the vehicle swap. It just means there’s usually a delay between the time the car is surrendered, the paperwork completed at Dealership, when RAV (or your existing lender) processes the payoff and RAV receives the title to the collateral. Make sure that within 5-7 business days that you do call your Lender to confirm the note was paid in full (request a letter from them stating same) and confirm that RAV has received the title.

Yes, you certainly should move forward to line up all of your financing before surrendering the collateral and taking delivery of the replacement. In order to do so, your Salesman who is handling and helping facilitate the transaction needs to create the New Vehicle Invoice. That invoice will show your collateral as if it were a “trade”, any fees (Dealer doc fees, DMV reg/title, misc. State fees (taxes if applicable) will all be broken out on that invoice. The bottom line figure from that invoice is what your Lender (Bank, Credit Union or Ford Credit) will need to run as your new loan amount. Be diligent and also go through the figures on the invoice BEFORE you send it to your lender.

Ford RAV will only let you take the replacement vehicle once you and the Dealership inspect both vehicles (Dealership yours, you the Dealership’s), financing is in place, all monies due are settled at day of swap (ie: applicable if you owe any deltas due to MSRP variances, any penalties, etc) and obviously all the normal new car paperwork and specific RAV paperwork is signed.

Many Dealerships don’t know or understand the RAV process, because some have never processed such a transaction or those that have, it’s a very low number of such transactions that it’s not the “norm” for their sales floor folks. The same is true for RAV, they have a high turnover and some of their folks are not well trained in the process, so there’s confusion or they just don’t know.

On a positive note, sounds like you’re in the home stretch!
Thank you for the support and additional information Cobra.

UPDATE: I went to the dealership Monday to apply for financing after the Ford RAV Rep finally said I could do the deal. Drove down there and then they told me they actually can’t because they want the surrender packet first (despite them telling me to come down there and the Ford RAV Rep saying I could).

So I got word yesterday (Friday) that we could do it. I go down there a second time. I’m there for two and a half hours and my sales guy and sales manager sit down with me and they tell me they don’t understand the math and even if they went with RAV numbers they can’t “structure the deal in their system correctly”. I explained the math and numbers and they said the system isn’t letting them input them correctly. I got a little ticked off due to them wasting my time twice. I told them I want some form of compensation for this, whether it was covering the GAP Policy or tinting the windows on the new vehicle since they told me to drive down their twice (30 minutes away from me) with nothing being done whatsoever to move the process along.

So I’m a little frustrated. Perhaps Ford should train these managers on buybacks and lemon laws. I know they don’t happen often but they should at least have a training packet or something. I used to work in financing furniture and other assets, and we would have rare circumstances that were weird (ie no tax deals, special terms for military, replacements) and we would always at least have a packet showing step by step instructions of how to write and submit the paperwork. I guess I’m just blown away a company like Ford doesn’t do that.

And on a side note, they actually told me I could take the new vehicle if I wanted. I told them I’d rather wait until I sign off on the paperwork. But they said if I did do the paperwork and all is signed for the financing they wouldn’t mind if I take the new vehicle and leave the old one. It doesn’t sound commonplace with the procedure I’ve been reading, but then again, they don’t know what they are doing lol.
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damships

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UPDATE: DONE!!! :rockon: Signed the surrender packet and drove off with the new vehicle. I'm now just waiting for the check to be mailed to my old finance company, which will occur after Ford receives the packet from the dealership. They are sending it overnight so I'm hoping it will be soon. Here's the photos of my new beauty! 2020 Mustang GT A10 PP1. Thanks to all of you who assisted! Especially you Cobra, you were an incredible help. Ford should hire you as a coordinator for this damn process lol
IMG_1611.jpg
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UPDATE: DONE!!! :rockon: Signed the surrender packet and drove off with the new vehicle. I'm now just waiting for the check to be mailed to my old finance company, which will occur after Ford receives the packet from the dealership. They are sending it overnight so I'm hoping it will be soon. Here's the photos of my new beauty! 2020 Mustang GT A10 PP1. Thanks to all of you who assisted! Especially you Cobra, you were an incredible help. Ford should hire you as a coordinator for this damn process lol
IMG_1611.jpg
IMG_1592.jpg
That's awesome.
Congrats and enjoy.
 
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UPDATE: DONE!!! :rockon: Signed the surrender packet and drove off with the new vehicle. I'm now just waiting for the check to be mailed to my old finance company, which will occur after Ford receives the packet from the dealership. They are sending it overnight so I'm hoping it will be soon. Here's the photos of my new beauty! 2020 Mustang GT A10 PP1. Thanks to all of you who assisted! Especially you Cobra, you were an incredible help. Ford should hire you as a coordinator for this damn process lol
IMG_1611.jpg
IMG_1592.jpg

LOL @ Coordinator position!

Congrats with the reaching the finale! The end result looks great, best of luck with it!!
 

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Not knowing the intricacies of your BBB Award - did you select or were you awarded a Buy Back Refund or a Buy Back Vehicle Replacement?
Been meaning to circle back and provide the outcome of my situation. I have now completed the process and can share my experience going via BBB which is definitely different.

History
Purchased in Oct 2018 with 500 miles on it new
Tick started at 1,800 miles (1,300 since purchase).
Took it to Dealer numerous times, all documented, and a number of times before SSM47787/TSB19-2144
Dealer changed a few items attempting to fix, and then Ford directed them to stop and said it was normal
I've posted videos along the way here, and as most recognized, my tick was excessive, loud and didn't sound good.
After TSB released, I couldn't get any dealer to even look at it. They woudl throw the TSB at me and said go away, its normal.
After 6 dealer visits, and them having the car 37 days in total, I contacted Ford Customer service to request buy back in Dec 2019
Ford asked that I take it to a different dealer for one more attempt. Fine. As expected, I was given TSB192144 and said please keep driving it.
Ford contacted me and said they would not buy back the car. I pointed to 37 days, and 6 attempts and asked under what grounds was the request being denied. They only stated, if I was not happy, their suggested next step was BBB.
To this date, Ford has never provided a justification why.

In February I submitted claim to BBB, as suggested by Ford. NOTE: I BELIEVE THERE IS A REASON FORD SUGGESTS THIS PATH, KEEP READING.
BBB took all my details, agreed i seem to meet the 4 attempts and 30 day requirement.
BBB tried to mediate a deal, but Ford continued to reject. They told BBB the 6 attempts were only diagnostics, and "not repair" attempts.
After no resolution, BBB moved the case to formal arbitration, with a third party Lawyer as arbitrator. (costing me nothing).
Ford submitted their documented position, as did I ahead of the arbitration. I received a copy of their claims, and took the time to prepare rebuttal to every point they made.
Prior to the arbitration I submitted the past Work Orders, Voice mails from Ford (saying we don't think you should drive it until we know more), video's that showed the mileage at 1,800 when it first started, videos with mileage before first oil change (contrary to TSB) to reiterate nothing to do with oil change in my case.
I really pushed in my documentation that Ford was kicking the problem to the right, at my expense of warranty period and mileage.

Arbitration was pretty straight forward (other than covid19 and done by phone).
I presented my case, Ford presented their side. Arbitrator didn't have many questions.
Less than 5 days later, arbitrator founded in my favor. After watching the videos, they stated "while Ford claims it is normal, after watching the video evidence, this clearly not normal for a new vehicle". They also highlighted the fact Ford could not simply negate the service visits as diagnostic and not repairs, as that is merely a judgment on terminology of the same activity.

Result of Arbitration
Arbitrator ruled for Ford to buy-back (repurchase) the vehicle. They stated the formula was the one I posted earlier in this thread, whereby they were not following the Texas LL guidelines.
After discussing with BBB, and outside legal advise, this BBB process is outside the state LL program.
BBB and Ford have agreed to a process (posted on BBB website) whereby Ford agrees for BBB to mediate.
BBB is given limits to what they can award, and if its a repurchase, Ford has only allowed BBB to award with this specific formula.
After experiencing this, its obvious another path for Ford (manufactures) to use, but with a different, and more favorable (to them) formula.
I've not looked at other states, but suspect where the BBB process is more favorable, they can decline a buy-back, and point customers to BBB instead of state LL.
If you're in TX, go via the state LL path first. The re-purchase formula is much more favorable to the customer.

In my case it wasn't terrible, as I only had 6,000 miles on the car. The difference between the Texas LL and BBB formula was only $1700 difference in their favor. Basically the BBB formula is giving up 1% of the purchase price for every 1,000 miles driven, and they count all miles, no exception. The state uses a lifetime estimate of 120,000 miles in the calculation, but also then reduces the mileage credit by 50% further for miles after the first dealer visit. In my case, the first dealer visit was after 1,300 miles, so via TX LL i'd have paid 50% of the mileage credit back, vs full mileage credit for every single mile on the BBB program.

I was pretty irritated that they directed me down this path when I realized the benefit to Ford. I actually opened a TX LL claim immediately and tried to push as fast as I could to see if I could get them to repurchase via that program. However it was a completely new claim, starting form the beginning.

As soon as the arbitration was done, RAV contacted me and said we're ready to send a check, where do you want to drop off the car. They messed up the formula as seems standard practice and assumed I owned the car from 0 miles. I pushed for them to use the TX LL but they refused at every level. Best I coudl do was to request reimbursement for 3 coats of Ceramic pain protection, hood struts, and jacking rails. They accepted all those.

With BBB, nothing to sign. They just wanted me to accept via email statement that I agreed with the payout. We setup a time at a nearby dealership and they called when the check arrived and asked me to stop by.

After I signed their paperwork s they could recoup taxes, they handed me the check and said we're all set. As I was walking out, I asked if they wanted the title, keys or anything else. They completely forgot to have me sign over title, or give them the keys. I chalk it up to the covid crazy and awkward situation doing the paperwork, but being honest I had to let them know I still owned the car and had their check.

I really loved the car. I loved driving it. I just could not accept that I paid over $40k cash, to have this issue. It's one thing when the bank owns the car, and your only out of pocket payments until you get rid of it. It's another matter when you dropped $40k, to hear a dam racket every time you drive it. My tick was constant, irregardless of oil changes, so may be not what others have, or may be the same. If you think the tick is not an issue, buy a repurchased one for a great deal, as it was the only thing causing me to sell mine back to Ford.

1FA6P8CF3J5146343
 
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Bumping for 2020 since there’s been more questions recently
 

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Hello,

I am in the process of trying to replace my Mustang EcoBoost Convertible 2018 because it is a lemon, in California. My RAV representative is not very clear.

Some info about the car:
Bought used, with 20335 miles on the odometer, price: $22998
Original window sticker MSRP: $41200
Transmission problems started at 23922 miles on the odometer.

First, my RAV representative ignored offering replacement and offered refund that seems right:
Refund in full after deducting used miles:
3,587 miles / 120,000 * $22,998.00 = $687.45

However, when I asked about replacement, this is what he said:
"You would be responsible for your usage and any upgrade charges. As your vehicle was purchased used, the upgrade would be the difference between the base price of your vehicle ($22,998) and the AZ Plan price of the vehicle you select."

This doesn't seem right. From what I read on here, and from reading Lemon Law in CA, this is what I think I should pay:
23922 miles / 120000 * $41200 = $8237.25 PLUS any difference in new MSRP with original MSRP.

Am I correct, and is there a document I can reference to convince him of that?

Thank you!

Edit: @Cobra Jet can you provide help with this if you know it? I would be very grateful, and so far your help was of a big help to me!!!

Edit 2: My RAV representative replied to my request with this:
Unfortunately, we are not able to process Replacements for ordered vehicles. It would need to be a vehicle that is currently on a dealer lot.

The reason we use the base price instead of the MSRP for the upgrade is because you did purchase the vehicle used. We only use the MSRP if the vehicle was purchased new. We also use the base price, not MSRP, in the usage formula for any vehicle, new or used.
Is this true? Nothing I can do about this? If it is true, this would be one VERY expensive replacement.
 
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Hello,

I am in the process of trying to replace my Mustang EcoBoost Convertible 2018 because it is a lemon, in California. My RAV representative is not very clear.

Some info about the car:
Bought used, with 20335 miles on the odometer, price: $22998
Original window sticker MSRP: $41200
Transmission problems started at 23922 miles on the odometer.

First, my RAV representative ignored offering replacement and offered refund that seems right:
Refund in full after deducting used miles:
3,587 miles / 120,000 * $22,998.00 = $687.45

However, when I asked about replacement, this is what he said:
"You would be responsible for your usage and any upgrade charges. As your vehicle was purchased used, the upgrade would be the difference between the base price of your vehicle ($22,998) and the AZ Plan price of the vehicle you select."

This doesn't seem right. From what I read on here, and from reading Lemon Law in CA, this is what I think I should pay:
23922 miles / 120000 * $41200 = $8237.25 PLUS any difference in new MSRP with original MSRP.

Am I correct, and is there a document I can reference to convince him of that?

Thank you!

Edit: @Cobra Jet can you provide help with this if you know it? I would be very grateful, and so far your help was of a big help to me!!!

Edit 2: My RAV representative replied to my request with this:

Is this true? Nothing I can do about this? If it is true, this would be one VERY expensive replacement.
I don’t know if you had seen this post earlier in this thread, but it may help you with understanding the usage fee. Although it was mocked up for the State of TX, you should be able to work it for CA as well:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...law-for-their-s550.59015/page-25#post-2883590

Your first useage calculation appears to be the correct format that would be used for your situation. It works by using the actual mileage that was reported on the first instance of when the car went into service for the problem. Since your car was purchased used, your starting mileage instead of being -0- is the 20,335. If your first work order for the reported problem is in fact showing a documented “in” mileage of 23,922, then yes your usage penalty is based on the delta of 3,587 miles. Do double check because you want to be sure the mileage used in the calc is 100% correct.

Don’t go with your second calc, it’s incorrect and you want the usage penalty to be as little as possible.

Unfortunately this is an imposed usage penalty fee by your Home State (CA). It’s not a “Ford” thing, it’s a State thing. Some States penalize for usage, some do not.

Also since you did purchase the car used, yes there are different Lemon Law provisions if wanting a replacement vehicle. Only the first owner would be entitled to the full MSRP for a replacement. Since the car was purchased used the Lemon’d vehicle can’t benefit from the original MSRP value.

So for instance, if you could opt for a replacement vehicle - it would be your $22,998 minus the new replacement MSRP (let’s say a hypothetical value of $35k) = $12,002.00. You would either need to pay out of pocket $12k OR finance it into the rolled over amount of $22,998, so essentially $35k. Another thing to keep in mind as well, and this is true whether being the original owner or not, you would also need to pay the differences in State Taxes on the new MSRP. So since you already paid State taxes on the $23k, you would need to pay State Taxes on that additional $12k.

It also appears by your RAV Rep’s response that the used Ecoboost you bought may have been a Dealer or Owner “Special Order”. If true, the car was probably equipped differently by options or colors than the norm and the original Window sticker (and any PDF copies) would be green, as opposed to blue. All they are saying is, they won’t build an exact match, you would need to find one that exists on a Ford Dealer’s lot in that combo OR any other Mustang (or Ford product). Regardless, the MSRP concern seems to be moot since the vehicle was purchased used.

Unfortunately since the car was purchased used, your best option is to take the refund minus any penalties and walk away. You could then use that $ towards any other vehicle anywhere.

I’m not sure what CA Lemon Law is for a used vehicle regarding the length of time allowed to make a claim, but everything I’ve seen keeps stating it has to be done within 18mos/18k miles for first retail consumer’s rights to claim and initiate a buy back. Does the same apply to used? If so, then you’re lucky if they are considering offering you a Buy Back opportunity.

Hopefully something above was helpful.
 

filipradenovic

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I don’t know if you had seen this post earlier in this thread, but it may help you with understanding the usage fee. Although it was mocked up for the State of TX, you should be able to work it for CA as well:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...law-for-their-s550.59015/page-25#post-2883590

Your first useage calculation appears to be the correct format that would be used for your situation. It works by using the actual mileage that was reported on the first instance of when the car went into service for the problem. Since your car was purchased used, your starting mileage instead of being -0- is the 20,335. If your first work order for the reported problem is in fact showing a documented “in” mileage of 23,922, then yes your usage penalty is based on the delta of 3,587 miles. Do double check because you want to be sure the mileage used in the calc is 100% correct.

Don’t go with your second calc, it’s incorrect and you want the usage penalty to be as little as possible.

Unfortunately this is an imposed usage penalty fee by your Home State (CA). It’s not a “Ford” thing, it’s a State thing. Some States penalize for usage, some do not.

Also since you did purchase the car used, yes there are different Lemon Law provisions if wanting a replacement vehicle. Only the first owner would be entitled to the full MSRP for a replacement. Since the car was purchased used the Lemon’d vehicle can’t benefit from the original MSRP value.

So for instance, if you could opt for a replacement vehicle - it would be your $22,998 minus the new replacement MSRP (let’s say a hypothetical value of $35k) = $12,002.00. You would either need to pay out of pocket $12k OR finance it into the rolled over amount of $22,998, so essentially $35k. Another thing to keep in mind as well, and this is true whether being the original owner or not, you would also need to pay the differences in State Taxes on the new MSRP. So since you already paid State taxes on the $23k, you would need to pay State Taxes on that additional $12k.

It also appears by your RAV Rep’s response that the used Ecoboost you bought may have been a Dealer or Owner “Special Order”. If true, the car was probably equipped differently by options or colors than the norm and the original Window sticker (and any PDF copies) would be green, as opposed to blue. All they are saying is, they won’t build an exact match, you would need to find one that exists on a Ford Dealer’s lot in that combo OR any other Mustang (or Ford product). Regardless, the MSRP concern seems to be moot since the vehicle was purchased used.

Unfortunately since the car was purchased used, your best option is to take the refund minus any penalties and walk away. You could then use that $ towards any other vehicle anywhere.

I’m not sure what CA Lemon Law is for a used vehicle regarding the length of time allowed to make a claim, but everything I’ve seen keeps stating it has to be done within 18mos/18k miles for first retail consumer’s rights to claim and initiate a buy back. Does the same apply to used? If so, then you’re lucky if they are considering offering you a Buy Back opportunity.

Hopefully something above was helpful.
I see, so I guess I was wrong. For the formula they used for repurchase, I mentioned that this seems right and I wouldn't use "my" formula there. I just thought it would be impossible (and UNFAIR) to compare the used vehicle price which was negotiated ($22998) with the MSRP of a new vehicle (~$41200 in this case for the same set of options). That is why I thought this different formula would be used in the second case, hence the full 23922 miles (and NOT 23922 minus 20335) and original MSRP that I used.

As for the time to initiate lemon law buyback, I thought that in CA it is ok to do it as long as the original factory warranty is in place, which it is in my case.

Anyway, thanks! This makes the replacement option stupid I guess, so I have to consider the refund option.
 

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I see, so I guess I was wrong. For the formula they used for repurchase, I mentioned that this seems right and I wouldn't use "my" formula there. I just thought it would be impossible (and UNFAIR) to compare the used vehicle price which was negotiated ($22998) with the MSRP of a new vehicle (~$41200 in this case for the same set of options). That is why I thought this different formula would be used in the second case, hence the full 23922 miles (and NOT 23922 minus 20335) and original MSRP that I used.

As for the time to initiate lemon law buyback, I thought that in CA it is ok to do it as long as the original factory warranty is in place, which it is in my case.

Anyway, thanks! This makes the replacement option stupid I guess, so I have to consider the refund option.
Ok, understand your formula thoughts after you clarified.

You're correct that per CA Lemon Law, as long as the original new car Bumper to Bumper Warranty is not expired, be it a new or used vehicle, the vehicle owner can file a Lemon claim. In this instance, being it is a 2018 model year, the 3/36 is still valid both in years and in miles because neither has expired OR been exceeded


Per CA Lemon Law:
  • The Lemon Law also applies to used vehicles when they are still under a manufacturer’s new car warranty. Any remaining time left on the warranty protects the car’s new owner.
However, what I meant by my prior statement to you about the 18 mos/18k is that in some States, in order to make a Lemon Law claim, there are stipulations that the claim must be submitted within a certain time period. For what I have read in the CA statements, it is saying a claim has to be made within 18 months and 18,000 miles (whichever comes first). So even though the factory 3/36 new car warranty on your 2018 is still active, the CA LL stated an owner must make a Lemon claim within 18 months of new car ownership from the date of purchase OR by 18,000 miles. If either have been exceeded, usually such a claim would be denied.

REASONABLE NUMBER OF REPAIR ATTEMPTS
The California lemon law establishes a rebuttable presumption that a reasonable number of repair attempts have been made if, within 18 months from delivery to the first retail buyer/lessee or 18,000 miles on the vehicle odometer, whichever comes first, one or more of the following occurs:

1. The same nonconformity results in a condition that is likely to cause death or serious bodily injury if the vehicle is driven and the nonconformity has been subject to repair two or more times by the manufacturer or its agents, and the consumer has at least once directly notified the manufacturer of the need for repair;

2. The same nonconformity has been subject to repair four or more times by the manufacturer or its agents and the consumer has at least once directly notified the manufacturer of the need for repair; or

3. The vehicle has been out of service more than 30 calendar days (cumulative) since delivery by reason of repair of one or more nonconformities by the manufacturer or its agent (such as an authorized dealer).

The 30-day limit is extended only if repairs cannot be performed due to conditions beyond the control of the manufacturer or its agents. The consumer is required to directly notify the manufacturer pursuant to paragraphs (1) and (2) only if the manufacturer has clearly and conspicuously disclosed to the consumer, in the warranty or owner’s manual, the provisions of the lemon law and the direct notice requirement.
My thought was that even though the “new car warranty” (3/36) is still in play, the total accrued months and mileage on your vehicle now exceeds the CA Lemon Law claim provision of 18 months and 18,000 miles.

As another example, in NJ, our Lemon Law is that the owner must make a claim within 24 months of the original purchase date or 24,000 miles, whichever comes first. The period to make a claim has no relation to and does not coincide with same values as the actual new car warranty of 3/36. Meaning that just because the 3/36 may still be valid, does not mean the owner has 3 years or 36k miles to initiate a Lemon Law claim; they have to make a Lemon claim in 24 mos or 24,000 miles of the original purchase date.



Has Ford RAV sent you a worksheet yet with the total proposed refund amount?
 

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Ok, understand your formula thoughts after you clarified.

You're correct that per CA Lemon Law, as long as the original new car Bumper to Bumper Warranty is not expired, be it a new or used vehicle, the vehicle owner can file a Lemon claim. In this instance, being it is a 2018 model year, the 3/36 is still valid both in years and in miles because neither has expired OR been exceeded



However, what I meant by my prior statement to you about the 18 mos/18k is that in some States, in order to make a Lemon Law claim, there are stipulations that the claim must be submitted within a certain time period. For what I have read in the CA statements, it is saying a claim has to be made within 18 months and 18,000 miles (whichever comes first). So even though the factory 3/36 new car warranty on your 2018 is still active, the CA LL stated an owner must make a Lemon claim within 18 months of new car ownership from the date of purchase OR by 18,000 miles. If either have been exceeded, usually such a claim would be denied.



My thought was that even though the “new car warranty” (3/36) is still in play, the total accrued months and mileage on your vehicle now exceeds the CA Lemon Law claim provision of 18 months and 18,000 miles.

As another example, in NJ, our Lemon Law is that the owner must make a claim within 24 months of the original purchase date or 24,000 miles, whichever comes first. The period to make a claim has no relation to and does not coincide with same values as the actual new car warranty of 3/36. Meaning that just because the 3/36 may still be valid, does not mean the owner has 3 years or 36k miles to initiate a Lemon Law claim; they have to make a Lemon claim in 24 mos or 24,000 miles of the original purchase date.



Has Ford RAV sent you a worksheet yet with the total proposed refund amount?
Yes, Ford RAV has sent me this (attached).
Because they also replaced entire transmission (they did not want to do it on first few visits even with me asking), they also offered me to keep the vehicle and get a settlement of $2000, if I am satisfied with the repair.

D40F66AE-AF9D-4F7D-913B-7F2E5005156A.jpeg
 
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2018 EB Prem. w/PP and 94 Mustang Cobra
Yes, Ford RAV has sent me this (attached).
Because they also replaced entire transmission (they did not want to do it on first few visits even with me asking), they also offered me to keep the vehicle and get a settlement of $2000, if I am satisfied with the repair.

D40F66AE-AF9D-4F7D-913B-7F2E5005156A.jpeg
Ok great, the RAV worksheet looks correct.

One other item to remember, if you had financed the car and are still making payments at the present time, keep track of your loan payoff figure. If that figure changes, you will need to notify RAV of any additional money due back to you IF any additional car payments have been made after that worksheet was drawn up. Usually by the time a RAV agreement was drawn up and when you drop off the vehicle to turn it over to Ford, it is possible the vehicle owner had made an additional payment (or two). It’s happened to a few folks including myself, so just be sure you’re not shorted any money.

Your situation is unique in the fact that you’re doing a Buy Back with a used vehicle and your posts here will help others in the future. Thanks for sharing your experience and the info.

It was a goodwill gesture on Ford RAV’s part to offer you the $2k “settlement” if you decided to keep the vehicle.

Just curious, did anyone at the Dealership offer you any trade in value - or did you not explore that avenue?

Are you going to get another S550 or Mustang?
 

filipradenovic

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Just curious, did anyone at the Dealership offer you any trade in value - or did you not explore that avenue?

Are you going to get another S550 or Mustang?
To the first question, no.

Second, yes I was looking at another S550 Mustangs with similar package options, and it is almost impossible to find one that matches what I picked the first time and what I want. I don't want to get a new one, I don't want to spend that much money actually.

In the meantime, I was testing the new transmission, and finally the car seems fixed. So I decided to keep the car, as a new transmission was what I was pushing for few services ago. I hope I did not make a mistake, so far so good. I just hope they did it earlier.
 

geep81

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Is RAV saying you can't order a replacement a new thing? I ordered a 2019 GT and it came with bad paint, and they let me order the replacement and wait until it came in to do the swap.

Maybe this was because I bought new?
Sponsored

 
 




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