sk47
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 12, 2020
- Threads
- 27
- Messages
- 5,039
- Reaction score
- 2,395
- Location
- North Eastern TN
- First Name
- Jeff
- Vehicle(s)
- Chevy Silverado & Nissan Sentra SE
- Thread starter
- #1
Hello; First let me say this is a thing I learned about Chevy antilock brake systems. I needed to replace the rear calipers on a 2004 Silverado. When I loosened the bolt at the banjo fitting from one of the calipers I discovered the soft copper washer had been squeezed and deformed to the point of being tight in the threads of the thru bolt. Took me a while to get the washer freed from the bolt. I wound up pounding on the bolt enough to move the copper washer and get a grip with some pilers. After getting the washer off I could remove the thru bolt. All that time brake fluid was dripping out.
The rubber plug picked up at a local parts store did not actually plug the banjo fitting, so it still was leaking fluid. By the time I found a bolt and two washers to stop the leaking a lot had leaked out.
Replaced the two rear calipers, changed the front pads and bleed the brake lines all around. Had a good solid pedal and thought i was finished. Started the engine. The antilock brake light lit up and the pedal became soft. Turns out air had gotten into the system.
The system in a 2004 cannot be bled at the anti-lock pump. Though i was going to have to take it to a shop having the needed scan tool and pay $100. Had a few days before the appointment so tried some things. The shop owner suggested doing a gravity bleed for an hour. Just open the rear calipers bleed screws and let it drip while keeping the reservoir full. Did not work. ( note- maybe should have done the fronts also at the same time. likely will never find out as I hope to never let one leak out again.)
Saw on the internet about another way. Already had the truck up on jack stands with all wheels off. That method was to have the engine running in gear at 20 MPH and hit the brakes 10 or fifteen times. (note- had some lug nuts on to keep the rotors from flopping around.) Did not work. The idea is a sudden application of the brakes would activate the pumps in the antilock system and purge the trapped air.
I was about to give up but the next day decided to try the running in gear with the four wheel drive engaged. After 8 or so stabs at the brake pedal the ALC light went out. I guess the front axels needed to be turning for the antilock to kick in. Did another all around bleed to get out the air purged from the antilock system. All was good or so I thought.
Put the wheels back on. Took it off the jack stands and did a test drive back and forth in my driveway. Brakes seemed fine. Parked the truck and was about to go clean up. Looked under the truck and saw brake fluid on the inside of a rear wheel. One of the new calipers was leaking. Removed it and got a replacement. Got that changed and finally all is good. ( note- the new calipers that leaked had a 7/16 inch sized bleeder screw while the one which sealed has a 10mm bleeder screw. The second new caliper that does not leak also had a 10mm bleeder screw. Just something noted.)
I have no idea if this trick will work on any Ford or other makes.
The rubber plug picked up at a local parts store did not actually plug the banjo fitting, so it still was leaking fluid. By the time I found a bolt and two washers to stop the leaking a lot had leaked out.
Replaced the two rear calipers, changed the front pads and bleed the brake lines all around. Had a good solid pedal and thought i was finished. Started the engine. The antilock brake light lit up and the pedal became soft. Turns out air had gotten into the system.
The system in a 2004 cannot be bled at the anti-lock pump. Though i was going to have to take it to a shop having the needed scan tool and pay $100. Had a few days before the appointment so tried some things. The shop owner suggested doing a gravity bleed for an hour. Just open the rear calipers bleed screws and let it drip while keeping the reservoir full. Did not work. ( note- maybe should have done the fronts also at the same time. likely will never find out as I hope to never let one leak out again.)
Saw on the internet about another way. Already had the truck up on jack stands with all wheels off. That method was to have the engine running in gear at 20 MPH and hit the brakes 10 or fifteen times. (note- had some lug nuts on to keep the rotors from flopping around.) Did not work. The idea is a sudden application of the brakes would activate the pumps in the antilock system and purge the trapped air.
I was about to give up but the next day decided to try the running in gear with the four wheel drive engaged. After 8 or so stabs at the brake pedal the ALC light went out. I guess the front axels needed to be turning for the antilock to kick in. Did another all around bleed to get out the air purged from the antilock system. All was good or so I thought.
Put the wheels back on. Took it off the jack stands and did a test drive back and forth in my driveway. Brakes seemed fine. Parked the truck and was about to go clean up. Looked under the truck and saw brake fluid on the inside of a rear wheel. One of the new calipers was leaking. Removed it and got a replacement. Got that changed and finally all is good. ( note- the new calipers that leaked had a 7/16 inch sized bleeder screw while the one which sealed has a 10mm bleeder screw. The second new caliper that does not leak also had a 10mm bleeder screw. Just something noted.)
I have no idea if this trick will work on any Ford or other makes.
Sponsored